spudulike

The black looks like the residue left when you use acid on the aluminium transfer. The black usually comes off with a bit of rubbing with emery but wouldn't do any more of this unless the black part is a high point.

It looks like piss yellow or I guess you could call it flat cider as well. I wouldn't paint my living room or wear a shirt that colour but guess this isn't what you meant.

Warming the plug is an old school method of starting a reluctant or semi flooded engine. It has the effect of drying a wet plug and also helps vapourise any wet fuel that lands on it when pulling over the engine. Oh....and it works rather well!

This every day of the week. I stick to Volkel taps and use the tapered type as in the pic if the receiving thread is still marginally there. Make sure it goes in dead square and DO NOT buy a cheap kit off Amazon or eBay.....the cheap taps are exactly that, cheap and will destroy your cylinder.

Get a pic of the cutters up Mark, they may be the ones I use for porting and loads of other stuff, purchased a few sets but they last an incredible amount of time and cost bugger all. 4mm dremel shaft I think

I think it is a coil off a 576 but as ADW says, it probably will work. The compression should be 150-170psi when measured with a suitable gauge (not one for cars). I take it this is the old 372 and not the Xtorq, not that it matters much, many Huskys shared similar coils with the same case design but with different ignition advance ramp ups and rev limiter thresholds. Check the piston out, all the gunk may be raising the feel of compression but not actually producing it. A bit of WD40 down the bore, pull it over a few times without the plug in and then spin it over a few times upside down to drain any fluid. Clean the plug, heat it up with a plumbers torch and stick it back in then pull it over on choke WITHOUT using the decomp. If it doesn't fire in 6 pulls, Knock off the choke, hold the throttle open fully and try a few pulls with the throttle wide open and pulling with the other hand. This is frowned upon, it can be dangerous BUT, it can prove an effective way of getting a saw firing if it is proving stubborn. A running engine needs fuel, spark and compression - the spark needs to be at the right time and the fuel needs to be vapourised in the correct manner. Report back with what you find.

Acid or alkali will react with aluminium to form oxide and that helps getting rid of the transferred aluminium. Once the black oxide has formed, you remove the oxide with abrasive paper and add more chemical until it stops fizzing and the plating looks clean. From the wear to the piston, I woulds say that the black patch of oxide is proud of the bore hence the wear occurring. I would stick with the OEM/Meteor option and see if a few hours use will bed it down.

I guess so as the 365 (which I assume you mean) is pretty much the same weight and size but with less go than the 372 so you would only purchase one if you didn't have the £££, you couldn't get a 372 due to stock or you wanted to save a small amount of fuel. All the 365s are relatively easy to mod up to 372 as they share the same bottom end.

I have seen poor filtration cause the Nikasil to wear on the inlet side. It is damn tough but given enough fine wood chip dust through a dirty air filter and it will wear through in time. Funnily enough, the saw in mind was a 024 with a wire mesh air filter.

The black bit just under the left hand side of the port on your second picture looks like it has had chemical on it but the oxide is still present. This mark coincides with the most wear on the piston. The vertical score will lower compression, the high points will wear the piston and ring lowering compression. On this sort of repair, there should be no high bits or deep scores. The scores you may get away with if they are not too deep. All you can do is see how it goes from what you have. The engine will bed down and get better with use sothe best option is to stick some hours on it. If you persist in rubbing small areas of the cylinder, you are likely to cause very small cavities and that really will kill your compression and cause blow by on the ring! 140psi is a bit low on a 024 but it may just be your compression gauge.

I once serviced a blower for a customer. The rats had been chewing his primer bulb so supplied a bit of rat poison with the returned machine. I like to go the extra mile!!

It is an old way of cleaning loose stuff from small tanks. Think of rush on a motorbike fuel tank, that sort of thing....it removes the loose stuff.

I saw a vid on YouTube doing exactly this.

It is so the tuners can easily improve the performance😀

The oil tank state won't change anything and a tank full of nuts and white spirit will loosen up any loose paint rather than stripping it down. On the crankcases, they shouldn't need sealant and if the pressure and vacuum tests are good, the issue is elsewhere. Sometimes old saws can drive you mad like this. Generally, swapping out the carb resolves the issues like I probably stated earlier. These saws do wear their piston skirts so worth fitting a new piston if you haven't already. If that doesn't do it then their isn't much left to suggest.

Try L&S Engineering, they do Husky parts and generally get them in pretty quickly if not in stock.

I think the OP has pissed off in to the distance!

Assuming this is the 1139 machine with the limiters removed, from the screws fully in (don't over tighten), the H screw should be 1 1/2 turns out and the L screw 1 turn out. There have been a few incarnations of this machine but these settings should get it going assuming there is nothing seriously wrong with it.

Who is the supplier you purchased from?

It could be dried fuel oil mix leaving too much oil residue in the bore. Try it with the plug removed and if it spins over fine, spray a bit of WD40 in the bore to wash the oil out. Why does it need a new carb and coil? As others have said, if they are missing, it would be uneconomical to repair. Have you checked for a spark and cleaned and rebuilt the carb yet?

You lot are so harsh. The fella brought a tool to our attention that he had found useful, that I hadn't come across before (bar the sandblasting booth type) and best of all, it costs bugger all so a worthy tool to hang on the wall for that odd job that needs a good clean up. Mine arrived today and I have a job for it already. It will be interesting to see how it goes and can see it getting a bit of use over the next few years.

so it was the typical old oil in the bore or a bit of hydro lock. Glad it is fixed and running.

Now that sounds like a decent offer!

Same here, for £10, if I use it once, it will be worth it.

If this woodpecker saw you from day 1 then birds then relate to that person as its parent....sounds weird but we have done a bit of bird of prey flying and that is how the birds view their handlers if they have been reared from an incubator. I think it is known as imprinting and is pretty much impossible to reverse. I hope the little fella makes it out there otherwise you may have a woodpecker to rear for a few years....not sure how long they live for.