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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Bloody hell, I have missed all the fun, that saw has seen a bit more life than 10 starts but at least it runs. Not sure why the plug was dry with the arm being that high but at least we got there in the end:thumbup:
  2. This thread is Shyte:blushing:
  3. spudulike

    560 woes

    The autotune will tell me the running hours, will see what gives once here.
  4. Well, bloody hurrah, you have a carb problem. If you feel like it - remove the carb, remove the metal cover on one end of the carb, the one with four screws and remove the diaphragm and tweak the metering arm up a little then reassemble and try again.
  5. Well I guess the weather is warming up so perhaps get it started by next winter:001_rolleyes:
  6. spudulike

    560 woes

    If you insist:lol: Hopefully it is retrievable.
  7. Not being funny but I suggested that you look at the plug and see if it is "Wet" with fuel. Whilst you are at it, with the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull the saw over hard and let us know if any fuel/vapour/splatters come out. Do this a few times if it does, leave theplug out overnight and try to start it in the morning. If the plug is dry, it is possible that the metering arm is a little too low and needs to be raised slightly so the diaphragm can pull a bit of fuel through. Can we stretch this out another week......Oh yeah:001_rolleyes:
  8. spudulike

    560 woes

    Strip it down, remove the shattered bit (ALL OF IT!!!) don't try turning it over as it may cause other damage. It is probably locked as the bit of piston may be between the cylinder top and piston or jammed in a port or in the bottom end. I have seen pistons shatter through excessive hours causing slap - enough to shatter the skirt. Hope all the parts are OK and it can be saved!
  9. The low screw should be turned fully in LIGHTLY so it can go no further and then turned anticlockwise ONE TURN. If the H screw has a limit cap and yours sounds like it has, just turn it anticlockwise till it stops. If the saw starts, adjust the idle until you get a steady idle without the chain spinning. I love these threads that last weeks with a job that would take a competent tech around 1-2 hours to fix:lol: I guess you will have a sense of achievement if you ever get it to work but it may be easier to get it to someone who has some experience with chainsaws or garden machinery. No disrespect, everyone has their skill sets and am sure you can do something I would be crap at......I hope:001_tongue:
  10. Mmmm:001_rolleyes: An engine should have spark, fuel and compression. If the plug is dry, you have no fuel, if it is wet, the carb is throwing out fuel. It obviously isn't this simple but these are the basics when analysing engine faults. I guess this one may run and run......and run or not as the case may be:lol:
  11. Had an MS200 once that acted like it had a limiter on the carb, the centre electrode was loose and bouncing up and down so it wouldn't get over 5krpm!
  12. Turn the L screw one turn out from fully in if no limit caps are fitted. If limit caps are fitted, just turn the cap anti clockwise fully. If that doesn't work, see if the plug is wet, see if you have spark, see if you have compression.....simple:thumbup:
  13. Possibly a plug/HT issue as the running rich may be a misfire!
  14. You could have popped in, not far from me and get all sorts flying over:thumbup:
  15. Service manual?....they are for whimps:001_rolleyes: Never read it and have serviced hundreds.....how the hell did that happen:001_tongue:
  16. Try using one off an old car or any engine using points. A faulty capacitor would cause poor running rather than no spark unless it has gone closed circuit. A test is to measure the resistance one way then swap the probes round and see if you get a kick in the gauge and then it settling. Make sure the points are opening and closing as if they are permanently open or closed, you will get no spark. Measure the resistance across the contacts to see if they are OK.....if this is all done and no spark, the coil is bad:thumbdown:
  17. Ah...love that one just out of Cottered, wind it up and hit it hard:thumbup:
  18. I am around three miles north of Baldock and 1.5 miles off the A1m!
  19. Yup, a good percentage of my work comes in from around the country as well as typical drop bys and local contractors. Makes life easier for the customer....I just have to work harder to get it right 100% each and every time!
  20. Some machines have a number of flywheel/coil combinations and have been here before. You must have a matching flywheel and coil combination and you may find Chinese coils, although said to be compatible, are far from that. The main issue is on flywheel magnets that align to the coil but not at near TDC. I found on my machine (forget the model number) this happened well off TDC so had some sort of major advance or retard in the electronics - that is why it is backfiring - get the correct OEM part!
  21. Or take it to a reputable mechanic that will go through it and get it all running nicely and fix all the leaks:thumbup:
  22. Take the cap off, remove the O ring and turn it round and refit - seems to fix most of the issues.
  23. If the coil is too close to the flywheel then the ignition will advance slightly and bingo - big kickback. Try my business card and if it still kicks then try a slightly thicker one!
  24. It gets to a point when you need a decomp. I test all saws with using one JUST to make sure the saw will work OK using it. Some saws react differently than others when cold starting and starting saws over 80cc without one is really not worth it!

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