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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Not that difficult but depends on the owners aptitude!
  2. I guess if he is totally competent then he will have no trouble fixing it:sneaky2: Make sure it still has good compression as the rope may have caused some issues. It may have just flooded but difficult to tell what is going on without inspection.
  3. Lift the metering arm a little more - it should hold pressure and only let in fuel when the diaphragm contacts it as the fuel in the metering section is depleted. Try another 0.5mm and see what gives!
  4. A muffler mod tends to work on most saws bar the vintage ones that weren't that restrictive in the first place. Some saws like ignition advance, some don't. It really depends on the original designed in timing curve. With some saws, they respond to a small change to a number of areas, just depends on what you start with. MS200 - don't bother. MS201/MS150 are worth doing!
  5. Brake cleaner can give you issues like heart palpitations, I use white spirit, paint brush and compressor - will shift much of the crud apart from dried oil. Don't use water - it will corrode and rust parts!
  6. Check the gaskets are in the right order. The thin plastic pumping diaphragm goes next to the main body of the carb with the sealing lattice gasket next to the cover. On the metering section - the thin one with the small metal disk on it goes next to the metal cover with the spacer one going between the thin diaphragm and the main body of the carb.
  7. The trouble is that if you buy "sets", you get a load of kit you will never use. Best buy a few bits of decent quality kit that you will use all the time. If you are working on saws and other hand held kit, T bars are always useful. Long hex drives in 5 & 6mm, T20, T25 and T27 drives. Long reach sockets, get a decent set of pliers, grips in different sizes, NWS make some nice kit and not bad value. One thing you could do is buy cheap on the first pass, see what you use a heck of a lot and then replace with quality - that is what I have done. You can buy cheap from markets, ebay and Poundland and have a whole tool board for £50 and then spend the rest over 6 months once you know what your needs actually are. One bit of kit you must have is a T27 Stihl T bar ......gets used lots!
  8. Black is 80 Micron Yellow is 44 Micron Orange - not sure but think 25 Micron But.......you still have to clean the damn thing:001_rolleyes::001_rolleyes: That wasn't aimed at you BTW:laugh1:
  9. I did two mins relatively easily and that was after 30 sit ups.....not too bad for a 52 year old fart:thumbup:
  10. Generally doing up the fuel cap but also fuel expanding with atmospheric temperature or engine heat.
  11. If that silicone rubber grommet is OK (generally it isn't), it will be a fuel delivery issue. Make sure the fuel line isn't clamped at the bottom of the airbox by the black plastic plate. It is then worth checking the metering arm height and perhaps lifting it by 0.5 - 0.75mm and see if it helps otherwise pull the H&L screws, get some carb cleaner down them and then screw them back in and reset correctly. The gauze filter can get a fine scum in it that blocks it so remove it and check under an eye glass to make sure it is clean.
  12. You can report it to ebay as stolen and then report the fella to the police as long as you know the serials etc! I guess he could have been done over himself but the police should be able to work up the food chain!
  13. Yes, it is usually owner lack of maintenance, this certainly was and just meant the piston wore down until it had poor compression. The flock filters offer more filtration but are also more restrictive. It is wise to take the top cover off, remove the filter and clean it once in a while. All filers need it whether Stihl or Husqvarna etc!
  14. You will feel it on the handle if pulled over slowly, it is very evident if this is done after pulling over a fresh machine. The air filters are the same material as most other polyester mesh type used over the years. The reason in pointing it out is that guys should clean their air filters out much more than they seem to and I also get a large number of filters clean on the top but chocked on the bottom where the top has just been brushed off. I have seen this type of issue on Stihls and Husqvarna machines in fact the air injection on the Husqvarna machines does do a pretty good job in the main. The number of machines that come in for porting with filthy air filters is a bit of an on going joke - the cheapest tune up would be cleaning the air filter:001_rolleyes:
  15. Yes, also seen loose spark plugs give issues on idling.
  16. Norway - does that mean you won't rock up now with a van load of saws wanting them fixed in 48hrs:sneaky2: Hope the move goes well and it all works out for you and the family!
  17. Had a 560XP and 550XP in and both seemed very flat on the starter, really lacking compression and both not starting. I measured the pistons and they show 0.11MM - 0.20mm wear and the ring was around 0.10mm down and this on a 65hr saw. Both saws were in dirty condition. Having looked at their air filters, the 560XP had a couple of splits in it and both were dirty with the filter elbow on the 560 containing much oily fine chip. My advice.... take the air filter off once in a while. The filter splits in two using the two small tabs on the housing - easily done with a screwdriver. Spray some cleaner on it and blast it off with a compressor or wash it with hot water and detergent making sure the filter mesh is dried off to leave the open areas OPEN! Doing this may save your saw going the same way, each one needed a new piston and top end rebuild, fortunately the Nikasil plating is pretty tough and the bores were in good order.
  18. Yup, the end gap on these autotune engines is pretty critical plus the air filters need to be kept clean - if you get fine dust being pulled through over a long period, it will wear the piston. Just had a 65hr 560XP in and the piston was that worn it would only pull 110psi! The air filter was dirty and had split in two places so there you go - a bit more maintenance needed!
  19. All good and VERY busy, bit too manic for my liking!!!
  20. Chances are that if you turn the H & L screw 1/4 turn out on each, the saw will work just fine. Just don't turn the H screw CLOCKWISE as it will lean the fuel off! You may need the special carb adjusting screwdrivers as the heads are probably splined or D shape.
  21. Bugger, that's cut the spiel down by some:sneaky2: Thought this may last a couple of nights:biggrin:
  22. Getting late, sometimes I can't be bothered with preamble:001_tongue: Hope all is well Andy:thumbup:
  23. Oh sorry, the issue really must be elsewhere then and not with the carb! There are different levels of cleaning as we all know - has it been in a US cleaner??? Probably not. Has he set the metering arm correctly.....probably not.... have the H&L screws been out and cleaned......oh, you know the answer already:lol: The issues are more often than not, with the carb. It just needs someone who knows what they are looking for to find the fault and resolve it.
  24. Just reset the autotune by running it hard for 5 minutes. If the saw still runs badly then you will need a competent tech to look at it and find out what the issue is.

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