spudulike

Any tank that has fluid drawn from it needs a vent to allow air to replace the fluids removed. The MS200T oil tank vent is under the upper nylon chain buffer on top of the bar mount. You will need to remove the buffer, remove the oil cap and get a bit of pressure from something like an air line on the vent and a bit of WD40 or carb cleaner to shift any issue.

Sometimes you get a bearing breaking down or a bit of debris in the gearbox that jams in the gears and cocks up the reciprocating of the head. You normally loosen up the blade clamping bolts and if that frees the unit up then the blades need taking off, cleaning of all that compacted resin and conifer shyte scraped off with a chisel. The gearbox is pretty simple, just be thankful it probably doesn't have con rods like the HL135 heads where all the needles fall out when you remove them!!

They are out against all odds and down to guys that will receive little but the knowledge that they made a difference. How many of us would risk our lives in that way for little or no gain for people we don't know? As you get older, life looks more fragile, you risk less and think of everything you now have to lose!

Anyway, 12 kids out of the cave in Thailand, sorry for the diver that died and nothing but admiration for the others that carried on the unenviable task of getting these people out in awful conditions. Brave people and hats off to them all!

Is that Issac Newton or some confusion with Chris Issak

I like the flair with which you have used all those full stops in that last post. Very commendable!

Lack of grammatical accuracy often takes away any conviction that the writer knows what they are talking about! Or am I blathering on a bit

Find a different or diverse point of view and then defend it over all other evidence or opinion.....some call it a sport, sometimes it is entertaining but it wears after a while!

Had two saws in from a local contractor, one a MS441 and the other a MS461. The saws were known to me but one of their guys had offered to "look after them" before a big job. I am guessing he doesn't know how to fit E clips as one had fried the needle bearing to the point a Mapp gas torch was used to remove the drum, the other was as per the image, all three legs of the clutch boss missing and looking at the back plate, it had rotated another 1/4 turn tighter. I put a socket on the boss and found that even with a 4' extension it wasn't going to undo so, fearing the crank may bend or break, I took to grinding slots in either side and eventually, a blow with a cold chisel knocked the remains of the boss off. Not one out of the book but the only way it was likely to be fixed. I checked the crank and it is straight so all good in the end. A little knowledge is sometimes dangerous - two mid size saws down isn't a good scenario, parts on order, sub 1 week repair time....all good!

The idle is OK but the top end should be around 13,000rpm on a run in saw, 13,500 is the maximum on a standard saw. The limiters just....limit the amount of adjustment for the 90% of people that cant adjust a carb properly. If the limiters are removed, you are left with a slot head to make adjustment. The mashed heads will just make adjustment more difficult, don't know of there are any other issues you have.

Woke up this morning all expectant and no PM, looks like lady luck has drawn a blank on me.....has the draw been done yet?

Not being funny but WHAT IS THIS TRIMMER, is it a secret.......don't tell me.....Einhell it is in the name - einHELL

If the unit has been well used then it may be worth popping the cylinder off as I have recently seen the plating wear through on Echo machines of this type. The compression often shows as being on the low side if the plating has worn off.

The saw makes the peak power at what revs? What is the needle bearing doing at those revs? At anywhere near peak power, that clutch will be locked solid to the drum as the clutch will kick in at around 3,000rpm and the needle bearing will be just sitting there not doing a great deal. The same bearing is used on the MS390 and it makes another 0.4HP! The heavier bearing sounds Interesting though!

The bearing only works when the saw is idling - it was a design fault and nothing to do with maintenance. Never seen a worn bearing on a MS200T......strange don't you think

It is pretty simple, if you fit a reasonable stove and pay for commercially dried and split wood, you are unlikely to save money. If you get a stove fitted and you are prepared to find, cut and stack free firewood or have a way to get firewood/timber for no payment or beer money cost and process it yourself then fill your boots. I have dragged the ditches after storms and more latterly relied on contacts in my business to drop excess wood off and have done repairs for firewood before, it all works and makes for cost saving, I am not sure I would bother if I didn't have access to a decent supply of timber. Oh - don't turn your nose up to any timber, it all burns and gives off heat!

In for a penny........ Last time I looked it was....... B) The MS 661 C-M

Don't forget to plug the impulse line as well. A suitable nail works for me!

The 395 is pretty much bullet proof, similar to the MS660, rock solid construction and rarely have serious issues on both!

Rope works well if you know what you are doing and what the risks are and what to do if it goes wrong.

You can use some recoil rope but go carefully as some get it stuck in the ports so the piston needs to be close to the top of its stroke! It isn't a difficult job if you know your way around small engines and have a bit of mechanical knowledge.

125psi sounds low but will depend on what a well running machine registers on your gauge. Other then a worn or nipped up piston, it may be a split fuel line or carb issue but check out that compression again.

Relatively easy if you are mechanically minded, almost impossible if you are an Iphone, jelly brained teenager!

You have a bit of rust in your clutch....that's clutch not crutch which is something completely different. You will need to strip it down and strip the clutch, clean off the clutch, apply a bit of grease or copper slip and reassemble. Be OK for a good while then.

Very true but what is the reason why it's doing it ?? Any one from husqvarna on here?? I would say they know about it and may not know why it is happening...call me cynical