spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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North Hertfordshire but have enough to keep me busy for a fair while at the moment! Drop me a line in 2 weeks if interested.
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Will have to be decent cow hide as sheep nappa, pig and goat leather is too light and supple. Expect to pay for decent quality leather.
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I would like to know where the "small holes" in the cases came from. It is usually from a big end, piston or bearing letting loose and the crank punching holes in the cases as it hits the debris. I would normally use a high performance epoxy to fill them if the damage is small and pressure/vacuum check to prove the saw is sealed. I have no idea on cost as I have no idea on the overall condition of the saw but it will need a new piston, I would hope the cylinder may be salvageable and would hope the bottom end is as well but wouldn't like to commit to an overall price without knowing what the saw has done!
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The finished thread is M5, I usually strip off the tank and handle to do the job as it is easier to do so. I generally find the washers are missing on the exhaust bolts and the aluminium wears under the bolt and makes it come loose. A little thread lock will hold bolts in place.
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Sounds like it needs a good going over by someone good at working on these machines!
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You have posted this on a Chainsaw thread - it may help posting it on a Lawn mower thread!
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Yes, it is the year it was manufactured - may have sat on a dealers shelf for a few months as well!
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The whole plastic cover comes off in one piece, it is held in place with 3 small torx screws. Once these are removed, the cover is keyed in to the bottom engine cradle by way of tabs on the cover and slots in the lower engine cradle. The cover can be removed by pulling the top of the cover forward and levering the bottom out. Bear in mind that the chain brake is a safety device and it appears you haven't got much of an idea on working on saws!
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Does the saw idle OK with no issues? If it does idle OK then it sounds like fuel starvation when the saw is under load or max revs. Typical issues - split or kinked fuel line, blocked breather, blocked gauze strainer in the carb, carb needs cleaning from standing, blocked fuel filter etc
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Interesting conversation with one of my customers today. I had recently ported his 395XP, he had taken a big tree down and had a 28" bar on the 395XP and a 30" on the MS880 which was standard. He was somewhat surprised to find the 395 outperforming the 880 with ease on ringing up the same timber - not bad considering the weight and engine CC difference! It is good to get a bit of feedback as it is rare I get the chance to run the big saws I port through big wood and it gives me good information about the improvements my adjustments make.
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The issue I have seen is with the rivet (ringed in red on the image) distorting and the thin plate it is attaching getting very loose. This has the effect that the chain brake doesn't actuate well if the brake guard is pushed on the side nearest the recoil cover.
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The fuel lines contract if not in contact with petrol and leaks in this area are relatively common on old saws that have been standing and clear of fuel. Try turning the carb L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn anti clockwise and increase the idle a bit to compensate. If that doesn't help, you may have a dicky accelerator pump.
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The lead is screwed in, easy fix.
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A Tail of Two–MS200T–Top Handles & Compression Tests
spudulike replied to arborlicious's topic in Chainsaws
I am liking the way you are dragging a four hour job out for four months. Dont you hold M5 helicoils in your box of bits???? -
These vents tend to get plugged. They only operate one way so you need to use an airline on the outside of the vent to blow any shyte that could be blocking it inwards in to the tank. You can use a soft pipe over the vent to see if it is allowing air in to the tank but sealing under vacuum.
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Actually it isn't that easy and I found the manual lacking in detail making light of the job so made my own method up but heat does help the extraction of the bearings!
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It is no secret, the service manual tells it all, it pretty much says it is....."easy"! Which it never is but that's life! Use a bigger hammer!
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L&S have just started to sell and stock Husqvarna parts. If you don't see the parts you need, give them a bell, they are a decent outfit IMO.
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A Tail of Two–MS200T–Top Handles & Compression Tests
spudulike replied to arborlicious's topic in Chainsaws
I can't wait, it is a bit of a cliff hanger, feeling a bit light headed at the thought of this saw actually running. I may have to book a flight to Oz to be closer to the occasion. Good luck with it, I guess you will get something out of the work done and hope it all works out in the end. -
What....of course I know
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I had one of these 372 copies in once. The thing looked familiar and I sort of felt at home when taking apart but had that feeling in the guts that something wasn't quite right. The main bearings had cracks in the housing all round the bearings and the rubber parts were a bit suspect. I think that in the hands of a weekend warrior, the saw would be fine but would give it a week in the hands of a forestry dude before it would break!
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You just have to bear in mind that it is easy
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A Tail of Two–MS200T–Top Handles & Compression Tests
spudulike replied to arborlicious's topic in Chainsaws
"rough"....that's about right, did you mean thorough -
A Tail of Two–MS200T–Top Handles & Compression Tests
spudulike replied to arborlicious's topic in Chainsaws
Well done but you do realise this test generally takes 5 - 10 minutes -
Barrettines Spirit - https://www.amazon.co.uk/GREAVES-CO-Barrettine-Methylated-Spirit/dp/B002ATI4VG Good reviews on this liquid!
