spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Drilling the holes isn't too bad but with a decent tap cutting in alloy, there should be no need to drill it first as the stripped hole will be pretty much to size. Just get the tap going in as straight as possible when you start to cut the receiving thread.
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- ms200t
- exhaust bolts
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I tend to be quiet the last 3 days before Christmas!
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I can hear the forestry guys laughing from here!
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It may have been an attempt to lighten the saw
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That's the one - Looks like I know a bit of stuff doesn't it!
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It is a crank case alignment dowel, there are generally two, one at the front and one to the rear of the con rod case opening. They hold both sides of the cases in perfect alignment rather than the cases moving around on the clearances around the screw holes. Where did you take the engine - Bodgitandscarper Ltd or their main competition Cowboys Incorporated Co?
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Possible that the needle valve is leaking and the crank was filling with fuel, who knows.
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Did it turn OK before the flywheel was fitted?
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It sounds like they did a partial rebuild!
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Damn right I am too busy, not enough hours in the day Why don't you pull the flywheel and clutch off and then see if the crank turns. If it doesn't, any reasonable business would investigate the issue and sort it if it is their issue. It may be that you haven't set the coil gap correctly, easy to do. Personally, I don't like only doing half the job as this sort of issue can occur and not be your fault but the fault of the owner not setting the machine up as it should be but wouldn't like to say it is one or the other in this case!
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Einh......what
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North Hertfordshire but have enough to keep me busy for a fair while at the moment! Drop me a line in 2 weeks if interested.
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Will have to be decent cow hide as sheep nappa, pig and goat leather is too light and supple. Expect to pay for decent quality leather.
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I would like to know where the "small holes" in the cases came from. It is usually from a big end, piston or bearing letting loose and the crank punching holes in the cases as it hits the debris. I would normally use a high performance epoxy to fill them if the damage is small and pressure/vacuum check to prove the saw is sealed. I have no idea on cost as I have no idea on the overall condition of the saw but it will need a new piston, I would hope the cylinder may be salvageable and would hope the bottom end is as well but wouldn't like to commit to an overall price without knowing what the saw has done!
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The finished thread is M5, I usually strip off the tank and handle to do the job as it is easier to do so. I generally find the washers are missing on the exhaust bolts and the aluminium wears under the bolt and makes it come loose. A little thread lock will hold bolts in place.
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Sounds like it needs a good going over by someone good at working on these machines!
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You have posted this on a Chainsaw thread - it may help posting it on a Lawn mower thread!
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Yes, it is the year it was manufactured - may have sat on a dealers shelf for a few months as well!
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The whole plastic cover comes off in one piece, it is held in place with 3 small torx screws. Once these are removed, the cover is keyed in to the bottom engine cradle by way of tabs on the cover and slots in the lower engine cradle. The cover can be removed by pulling the top of the cover forward and levering the bottom out. Bear in mind that the chain brake is a safety device and it appears you haven't got much of an idea on working on saws!
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Does the saw idle OK with no issues? If it does idle OK then it sounds like fuel starvation when the saw is under load or max revs. Typical issues - split or kinked fuel line, blocked breather, blocked gauze strainer in the carb, carb needs cleaning from standing, blocked fuel filter etc
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Interesting conversation with one of my customers today. I had recently ported his 395XP, he had taken a big tree down and had a 28" bar on the 395XP and a 30" on the MS880 which was standard. He was somewhat surprised to find the 395 outperforming the 880 with ease on ringing up the same timber - not bad considering the weight and engine CC difference! It is good to get a bit of feedback as it is rare I get the chance to run the big saws I port through big wood and it gives me good information about the improvements my adjustments make.
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The issue I have seen is with the rivet (ringed in red on the image) distorting and the thin plate it is attaching getting very loose. This has the effect that the chain brake doesn't actuate well if the brake guard is pushed on the side nearest the recoil cover.
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The fuel lines contract if not in contact with petrol and leaks in this area are relatively common on old saws that have been standing and clear of fuel. Try turning the carb L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn anti clockwise and increase the idle a bit to compensate. If that doesn't help, you may have a dicky accelerator pump.
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The lead is screwed in, easy fix.
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A Tail of Two–MS200T–Top Handles & Compression Tests
spudulike replied to arborlicious's topic in Chainsaws
I am liking the way you are dragging a four hour job out for four months. Dont you hold M5 helicoils in your box of bits????
