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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. TBH, having seen that many budgets, they have stopped being of interest to me.....smoke and mirrors each time to kid you you are better off when all the time, you are being done. Better off avoiding the news as it is soooooo depressing!
  2. Ah 14 years...so that includes the aftermath of the 2008 banking crisis as well. "Daft".....I often act like an idiot but it doesn't mean I am one I am not blaming covid for the total mess we are in, I am just stating that there are costs to all that has happened and that it has to be repaid.
  3. I think you have to remember the fact the country has been furloughed at great expense through covid and was heavily subsidised on the cost of fuel due to the Ukraine/Russian war. It is easy to forget and think it was all free money but it is based on Government borrowing and now needs paying back.
  4. Nepias 262XP was the gudgeon pin that wore as was an 064 a few years after. The 064 just had a spare gudgeon pin fitted to repair it. Both were OEM top ends.
  5. You typically have windowed pistons to allow a better flow of fuel/air vapour in to the transfers. Solid walled pistons typically have cylinders where the lower transfers are in the base of the cylinder and not in the cylinder wall - like the MS660 or 395xp etc. I say "typically" as there are exceptions from the likes of Makita/Dolmar.. If you look at the piston, you can see the sidewalls are angled to allow increased flow in to the transfers, no idea why they produced two kits like this but it looks like they are covering two separate OEM parts. I have done a few 268XPs and all have had windowed pistons so I would go with the same.
  6. That is a relatively unusual one. I have seen the gudgeon pin wear and not the piston before...I think Nepias 262XP had that a few years back. It always seemed strange that the pins steel wore rather than the alloy of the piston. I would check out the big end cage to make sure it is OK, fit a new small end or at least inspect it and fit a new Meteor piston, if available. Whilst you are at it....fit a new clutch drum bearing if the drum has a bit of wobble, most don't and I have written of a few machines for worn crank shafts - new ones are ££££. Oh...make sure the missing pin is retrieved and if you can't find it, flush the bottom end out, check inside the muffler and then double check all the transfers and ports for nicks and bruising of the edges.
  7. Oh....this guy tested the two and sorts of backs up my views.... https://opeforum.com/threads/oem-cylinder-shootout-ms200t-vs-020t-round-three-this-time-its-personal.6190/
  8. The only visible difference between the two is that the lower transfer opening is different and the MS200T cylinder has a split transfer which, I believe was to reduce the stacking effect within the transfers and effectively allows both front and rear transfers, to act independently. In reality, the OEM kits give 200psi when new and the gasket is deleted. If you try a saw with a worn OEM or aftermarket 145psi cylinder and then try one with 200psi you immediately notice a much faster spool up time and the immediate attack on the wood is far more urgent. Compare a MS201 to a MS200T and you really see that the MS200T just has that immediate torque in the wood. Anyone that has tried to do timed cuts with these two machines will have found the MS201s need a light initial feed in to get it up to full tilt or it will bog....the MS200T is so nice because it pulls hard from low revs. I was in the position of choosing the Meteor or OEM kit. I get a bit of business discount from L&S so it made the OEM choice the best one for me. The Meteor pistons are the best ones after OEM, they use Caber rings and are proper. I strongly believe their cylinders are Hyway ones, some say they are finished by Meteor...I can't say but my mantra has always been to retain the OEM cylinder whenever possible rather than using other AM options. So...in regards to your situation....my stance would be to...inspect each cylinder and only replace if the cylinder is scored through a circlip coming lose or if the Nikasil plating has come off - usually around the inlet port through not cleaning the air filter. A bit of seize transfer can be removed and would lightly hone the cylinder above the exhaust port as the open transfers make going lower more difficult, and then fit a Meteor piston with OEM circlips just to be sure....they are the best.
  9. Strangely, I found myself in the position of needing a MS200T top end today. Even more strange was the fact L&S still had the 020T OEM part in stock.......do they fit the MS200T...hell yes... of course they do and will give pretty much the same performance give or take!! Roll on 200psi with a base gasket delete...nice!! PS - they still have two in stock!!
  10. Close enough....hope he has a sat nav so Doris can guide him in!!
  11. I reckon there is a reason it is listed in Penzance! "Any Chance of posting it"......"Yeah, no problem, just make it £1030 and all is good"....for the "seller" as he is a thieving scammer.
  12. And their cylinders are some of the better ones out there although I did have some poor port casting on a 460 kit once but just reamed if out to make it work OK
  13. It just depends if you can find a good workaround that doesn't cost a fortune but it is a big dilemma.
  14. Tonight I will be burning some old rotten decking....it burns, it heats...it was free.
  15. Not done a 585 muffler but to keep the noise down, always allow the exhaust port to fire against the baffle plate or front of the exhaust before exiting elsewhere. Forward facing outlets are just stupidly loud. Second tip, make your new outlet come from the muffler chamber closest to the cylinder so exhaust gases avoid having to go through the baffle first. Third tip - make sure the new outlet gases don't hit top covers or brake handles etc as they will melt!! Lastly, the type of outlet is down to your skill set. One of the simplest outlets is a slot louvre...a bit like the old Stihl 026 outlet cut through with a dremel diamond cut off disc then opened and shaped. If you can braze, silver solder or weld, you can go for a let in steel tube type...Stubby will be around soon with his ear bleeder 372!! Do all the thinking first and check twice, cut once....having the new lovely big pipe outlet foul the chain brake handle isn't a good look. Technically, all you are doing is trying to get improved flow without deafening the immediate population around you! Back pressure doesn't really kick in until you get in to expansion (tuned) pipes.
  16. No, I have had some saws come in with non OEM cylinders and even after a base gasket delete and the compression being around 160psi, the saw was lethargic and in some cases pretty pathetic. Some I have had have been much worse than a well worn OEM kit and barely make 135psi with the base gasket in place. The main issue is that OEM cylinders have a very decent piston skirt to bore fit and the AM ones can be well off the mark. This means that although the ring to bore may seal the top of the piston well, when it is zinging up and down the bore at 12,000rpm and the saw is hot, the compression, torque and power all suffer from the lack of the cylinder and piston fitting each other well. The symptoms are a bit like comparing a saw fitted with a new OEM kit to a saw that has done 15 years on an OEM kit and the piston is pretty much shot. The plating on many aftermarket cylinders is like cheese....try a carbide burr one and you will see it first hand. I ended up fitting Meteor pistons and as these became difficult to find ( I once purchased 25pcs to see me through), I would fit a new OEM cylinder and piston just to get that 200psi and instant "new saw+" performance. Your issue now is to replicate that without the OEM parts....probably Meteor and Hyway would be my initial possibilities. Reducing squish and machining don't make up for poor piston to cylinder clearances in my book.
  17. Our builder has been using a lot of stuff called "Celotex" which is a high performance insulator. I guess you could board the inside with the Celotex and plasterboard version. Have you tried a dehumidifier? Not one of those shyte ones but a proper one. We have two, a Mitsibushi one and a Meaco one both of which work really well...a cup full of water per two hours or so in damp weather.
  18. spudulike

    372 porting

    I was always subtle and sympathetic to the original design in my muffler modding....unless doing work for forestry where setting off car alarms, seismic detectors and early nuclear early alert stations isn't an issue. Unfortunately, in other work, there is usually a winging neighbour/customer that like to complain about things like blood streaming from their ears.
  19. Looks like a Viburnum to me, the flowering time is correct and the flower will be white with a tinge of pink in the bud. Tough buggers, bit like laurel!
  20. It is a big shame that the OEM kit is now obsolete, using one of these and deleting the base gasket gives 200psi and a decent performance boost just by itself. I believe Hyway make the cylinders for Meteor, I have my own reasons for thinking this from my own experience, others may have their views. I used Meteor pistons on these machines and other models for years and they are probably the best option beyond the OEM part. Hyway probably make the best of the Chinese copies but would use the OEM circlips as they can be a bit hit and miss on most aftermarket kits. I don't think I ever had a machine in with any other kit than these that actually ran well. Significantly poor compression was present on most of them and it killed both torque and revs in the cut. I couldn't do much with the non OEM kit to make them work well and usually just informed the owner and went full OEM kit in the last few years of running my business.
  21. spudulike

    372 porting

    Those older 372XPs port up really well, big gains to be had with what you have done and a suitable muffler mod.
  22. spudulike

    261 New Crank

    I usually use two types of puller when splitting cases but as Chris says, your crank is knackered so beating the crap out of it won't cause you any issues. You may find a bit of warming up of the cases will help...an oven if all the plastic and rubber parts have been removed but only if it won't go without it. Make sure ALL the screws are removed, looking at an exploded diagram can help on this and never try to prise the cases apart or try doing it from the case cylinder opening as you will damage the mating surfaces or worse! It would be a good learning curve if it works out. One thing to also remember is to de-stress the bearings on reassembly. All they need is a couple of light wallops with a copper mallet on each end of the crank shaft and the crank rotation will go from spongy and slightly tight to nice and loose.
  23. You can check for leakage by plugging the breather and purge lines then pumping air in through the fuel line with a Mityvac.
  24. That is another muffler mod saw. For a relatively simple mod....not sticking a big outlet tube on the outside box...more to it than that, it sorts the cold start lag and gives the saw a decent boost in performance for not much money...I think it was probably around £60 if that was the only job done. Oh, if the saw had the issue with vertical running on idle, that would have been sorted as well. Glad you like it and it is giving good service...a nice discrete mod on these saws
  25. spudulike

    372xp

    Put some fuel in the tank, shake it about a bit and drain it out as that shyte has come from there. I used to do it through a fine filter to see when the tank is clean. It sometimes takes three purges to be clean. Make sure the fuel filter is also clean and in good shape. Another thing I always did if ever I found clag in the gauze strainer on a machine in for work on it.

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