spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I would set the metering arm if not done already and then hold the carb up to the light, open the choke and turn in the idle screw until you see a very small amount of light around the brass throttle valve plate. The carb should be pretty close to going then. The other suggestions are a bit more complex and would be a phase two if the saw still didn't function like this. It is always worth doing the obvious and easy things first and then progressing to the more difficult if the easy stuff fails.
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Oh dear, was alcohol involved in this? Once got a Stihl 039 in bits from a customer on the IOM who quaffed a bottle of burgundy, took his saw apart and woke up the next day with total loss of confidence. I rebuilt it but had two strange round bits of plastic left, I asked the customer what the hell are they and he said thank the f#£k for that, I also was working on my HiLux that night and have been looking for them everywhere!! What a life!
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Thanks, a bit of a shock when someone that age dies!
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I sorted a couple of his saws and sorted out an eBay pickup for him as I was close by. A good fella, had a good chat when we met up. What happened to him?
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OK, shoe retaining spring has taken out that elbow I was talking about in an earlier post. Looks like you have it sorted, all good and not to££££.
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And stick your tongue on it to test it
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They sometimes screw in to the coil, others are potted and that is an issue which means you will need to find a way of splicing and joining a new piece of HT line in.
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I would make sure the spark plug spur and cap are reassembled and see if it cures the issue. It can be a bit of a job but worth trying before writing the machine off!
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You need to strip the clutch drum and clutch off, look at the area under the clutch and see if there are any obvious signs of cracks or wear. These 391/390 etc have a strange arm that pushes in to the oil tank union and connects up to the oil pump. It is possible the seals on the arm or the arm are damaged. The crank seals will NOT be an issue, there is no chain oil behind them! Frammos idea of pumping the tank up a bit is a good idea, easier on the saws with rubber pickup pipes but possible by pushing a bit of big fuel pipe on to this arm union connector (you will recognize it when you see it)! Sometimes you can fill up the oil tank with Petrol/diesel and if the leak is bad, it will come out a lot faster making it much easier to see. Not much else to recommend, I wasn't being funny in my earlier post, sometimes it comes down to strip and diagnose. Damage through a mechanical failure rather than wear are difficult to diagnose unless it is a common failure!
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Glad it seems to have worked out OK. Thanks for letting us know.
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Cake.........what a life
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2014 when I ported it, not bad VFM in my book
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I believe that Zama use a UV cure on their latest carbs. I have tried many substances, none using king size Rizlas I hasten to add!!! Cyanoacrylate, nail varnish and the rest all get degraded by petrol. Seal All is about the only stuff that doesn't fall out. I use any sealant in very sparse quantities so it doesn't fall out and cause later issues. The carb manufacturers recommend not using sealant at all since the increased use of Ethanol......... A bit of a holy grail is this subject!
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Just strip it down and see where the oil is coming from!
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Shipping from Ireland costs a bit more but is possible - just drain, bag and pack it well!
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Mower blade attachment keeps failing
spudulike replied to Paul in the woods's topic in Maintenance help
Yup, as fitted on MS200T exhausts or not on the ones that fall off or come loose!!! Also used on the many press tools I used to set and run in a previous life! -
I made my own punch, needed a little fettling but it works for me. Most of the carbs that need a new plug are C1Qs so use the same punch. They are an absolute sod to get punched in and sealed 100%, I have seen all sorts of attempts including a bit of what looked like a coke can - best leave it in place especially with the red seal as it is the most reliable type of seal.
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Difficult to say as I usually test the saws for a few minutes rather than for a time where they get damn hot. I would check the spark plug is a good colour (tan) rather than white or graphite grey. It is possible you have an issue but without plugging it in to the AT interface, you won't be able to see the carb settings to see if they are correcting for an issue such as an air leak. These AT saws do a good job of correcting running issues to the point they pop! It may be a carb issue or fuel line/fuel filter or it may just be hot weather.....I can't say without looking at it.
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No, it is the one where the crew are told not to shoot at the aliens as they have acid blood and one of the bods says "what are we supposed to use, harsh language"! STEP AWAY FROM THAT WELCH PLUG!!!!!!! You don't have the tool for it
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Just read this again....check the low speed setting on the carb, if the saw loads up a bit under full throttle, when the throttle is snapped shut, it can give the saw more fuel than it can deal with so the idle plummets then picks up. Make sure the H speed is set to around 13Krpm and the low speed isn't set too rich......and make sure the air filter is fully cleaned!
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Not really, I haven't had much of an issue with these carbs - it is worth making sure the part of the rubber inlet manifold is inserted correctly in to the slots either side of the throttle valve. You may also like to check the coil to flywheel gap. The coil is a bit weird in that the bottom two parts of the coil sit the typical distance from the coil and the top part sits a few mm away from the flywheel - make sure this is correct as if incorrect, the coil will keep kicking in to different advance settings cocking up the idle - I have seen this before - the first part of the coil advance is very low advance and can cause backfiring on starting but does give easy starting characteristics and then it flips up to normal advance, probably 20-30 degrees. Get the gap wrong and it bounces between the two giving varying idle!
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Well I could have but thought I would be more subtle...
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Damn, that's done it, a technical question
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Nice....factory tools for pushing the cases back on to the crank, where did they come from? I would still whack the crank both ends after reassembly just to be sure!
