spudulike

Going back to the low cost air pistol thing, the budget Chinese PCPs are good value, something like this.. Artemis 800...177 best at pistol power.

Life doesn't get more rock and roll than this. Nice job though, should heat a bit better now.

And who pays for all this loss from the shops I wonder....well...the customers I reckon!! The CoOp is probably an easy target because of their small town/village demographic, easy to do the off and no police nearby.

With the limiter fitted, you won't be able to get the same feeling on the adjustment as you would with a non limited carb adjustment. Is the saw fitted with a bar and is it stalling on the strop, on the floor, being held....it all makes a difference. Have you checked the clutch springs, if they are a bit baggy or one is broken, the saw will stall on idle.

Has the L screw still got the rev limiter fitted on it? If the L screw is turned in fully, the saw revs should rise and then die. If it doesn't do this, I would suspect an air leak.

I found a Husky mincer once, I was tempted but it wasn't really me.....comment as appropriate 😉

Believe me, the only way, teeze out each bit and glyphosate each bit. Nothing else works. Done it a few times, time consuming but it works.

Stop carping on about moles, voles and holes.....lets get fishy!!

The fella has one of the predecessors to the 020T and MS200T, one of the alloy bodied top handled saws....just clarifying as some of us are probably to young to remember them..... like this: -

The petrol will burn leaving fluid in the exhaust that will smell of paraffin which is pretty much what it is. I trust the petrol has 2T oil in it as well. I serviced an 066 years ago for a local fella, it came back a day later not starting and a bit of a blame game. I swapped his diesel impregnated fuel out and proceeded to fill the drive and Close I lived in with clouds of smoke until my mix came through and it ran just fine. It will do no harm to the engine....as others have already said.

Done 3 this year, looks like that is it for now...hopefully. It is the mess they leave and the cavities they make under slabs, makes a royal mess although the mice like to use the redundant runs.

I sympathise, I have had my own success trapping them though. The art is locating the tunnels between the mole hills, I use a screw driver and push it in to the soil around the mound to locate it. Once you know where the tunnel is, you get a wall paper scraper and cut a neat oblong out of the roof of the tunnel, find the entrance and exit then place one of these old fashioned traps in line with the tunnel and replace the plug of lawn. Just keep at least a foot away from the mole hill and then get in to the mindset of the mole travelling the tunnel so a nice clean installation and positioning of the trap is critical IMO. Ok usually get 4 traps down to raise the odds. Goodluck

It sounds like that flat glass fibre tape that some manufacturers use to seal glass. I think you can get self adhesive types as well

Probably caused by the cheap rubber parts I mentioned earlier

Those drill pumps often say no to oil but they are cheap and would work at least once. They are great for water butts, filling ponds and I made an excellent pond vac out of one, it gets rid of pond sludge and fish crap very effectively.

I had one of these Chinese 372 copies in a while ago. It was a strange experience in that the saw had a familiarity about it but it just wasn't right. I will clarify, the recoil didn't feel right as the recoil spring was much thicker. The rubber parts were cheap and shiny, not like the nitryl rubber originals. The plastic parts were not as well finished. The worst part was an elusive air leak was tracked down to hairline fractures around the alloy supporting the main bearings. Sure, it sorted of went and felt like a 372 but the build quality was lacking. I haven't had any in recently but you do get what you pay for but a pro, doing a pro job, with insurance and in a dangerous profession......choice is yours.

I reckon Nikasil plating must be well under 20 thou - around 5 thou I would reckon and personally, I usually use a three legged hone very lightly, it always worked well for me. The art is to get a bit of roughening of the bore without taking much off and not catching the ports with the legs.

It is bad spelling but am I complaining 🤔 Grease - lubricant Geese - big birds to eat or act as security Greece - holiday destination Greese - who knows

Well old boy, on July 20th the OP stated the machine was a MK2 so please keep up and stop drifting in to that boxed set of Downton Abbey again, I know it is difficult🙂

You are using a ring compressor to get it in to the cylinder bore aren't you? If all else fails, remove the piston and try to insert it, with the ring fitted, in to the cylinder and see if that does it. It will get a tight fit, that is how it works. Use a bit of oil to ease it....you could measure the piston ring groove depth so you know it will work. Have you carried out many rebuilds?

Try putting the ring in the bore to make sure it fits OK and the gap being around 7-12 thou. Not being a dick but you are aware that there is a ring location peg in the groove? You can measure the thickness of both rings with verniers but, unless you have the wrong ring, it should fit and as Stubby said, clean the groove with a piece of busted ring as carbon can build up in the groove. Have you tried pushing the ring edge in to the groove, not as it would normally be fitted but the outer edge of the ring in to the piston ring groove?

As above and running in...lots of flat out but SHORT periods so excessive heat isn't built up so small rings/ cuts but always use the saw flat out and avoid long drawn out cuts for the first couple of hours use.

Good. The piston can wear like that but the bore, being much harder, will often be fine and a new piston and ring will restore the compression and decent running. The black bit on the piston looks like a bit of blow by down to piston wear but use semi or fully synthetic oil on these strato engines, the main bearings will thank you for it. BTW, when you remove the cylinder, you should always blast the chip and oil away from near the cylinder base to stop it entering the engine. Always the best policy.

The issue with measuring the compression is the small plug adaptor which can lose around 30 psi on the large plug type and also using a car type compression gauge which will top out on a small engine at 75psi. In short, use a Gunson HiGauge or something similar to get a correct compression reading. 150psi and higher is decent on a cold engine after 5-7 pulls. As Mark and ADW have said, these machines need a piston ring in decent order and if worn, the idle suffers. If you hadn't said the impulse line was connected, on Mk1 machines, this was one of the most common issues and have seen them come off or even the brass insert on the cylinder come out, the symptoms are stalling. The carb - worth checking the gauze strainer is clean. The pump and metering diaphragm, especially the metering diaphragm, can get a bit baggy causing running issues. On the CST test your dealer did, if you have the printout, the carb H&L settings can often be revealing.

The Mtronic version will not have holes for carb adjustment.....unless someone has swapped it out.