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Breezeblock

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Everything posted by Breezeblock

  1. the ones that we've done have a damper brake on the pivots to stop this
  2. you can but it won't move
  3. has this turned into an overloading thread
  4. yep but i don't think it'll be that quick
  5. yep best tool ever we have 2
  6. low pressures are usually caused by worn pump or motor or relief valve out of adjust generally speaking if the motor or pump is worn the pressure will increase as rpm goes up also when it gets warmer the pressures will reduce
  7. yep its the same
  8. yep but the valve block is only 3/8 bsp i think post borers are 1/2 i don't think there will be enough flow as well i aint to keen on raising the rv pressure as the machine is built fairly light i don't really fancy bending frames and links
  9. almost forgot to post picture of its first job we were trying to find its limits so today its been bogged rolled front ways and then flung a track all in all a good day a bit of mods to get done as the timber slipped out of the lifter so i welded retainers on the bottom and put an extra pulling eye on the front of the chassis to stop it flipping front ways when its pulling
  10. it probably could be adapted but the hydraulic rv is set to 110 bar so i think this would be a bit too low for it
  11. before you even think about touching the hydraulics get a gauge on it and read the pressures
  12. is it 1 or 2 cyl take the plugs out and make sure your getting a good spark go for basics first
  13. sloppy bearing fit is the cause of that refit the new shaft and bearings with loctite and it'll be fine
  14. we've got the diesel version and they are good chippers we have had a few problems but they wouldnt put me off. blades come from saturn the bottom roller seizes up because of the cover underneath take the cover off and fling it the stress control is a good unit but poorly situated where it gets hit with water the bottom roller shaft breaks thru the circlip groove and the bearing fit on the shaft was poor resulting in sloppy bearings
  15. larger is usually the return change the fittings to 3/4 as they are cheaper and its unlikely that a mini digger needs an 1" coupling for the amount of flow that the pumps produce
  16. woop woop springs arrived ace no more getting soak to the skin
  17. idle hands makes for the devils work i hope that was landy and not lady
  18. thats not needed as you would use bucket tilt for open and closing grab it only needs a direction valve if you don't have 2 way flow on your aux circuit theres no need to add valves if they aren't needed. for the restrictors in the motor you need a directional restrictor as most motors for grabs don't have a built in crossover valve to avoid breaking shafts and the control valve needs to be open port to tank when in neutral so the grab can rotate freely until a movement is required
  19. you can fit a cetop style valve and work it with push buttons on the joysticks and take pressure from main pump output or from the breaker pedal or servo system as its for rotation it will work with fairly low pressure
  20. it looks heavy enough to do our job its getting put on skid steer thanks chaps
  21. does anybody have a riko grab any problems with them whats the build quality like its the small jl grab that i have been looking at
  22. superb i like seeing stuff like that. did he cut the plate from hardox in the background
  23. i have gave up reporting them ebay doesn't bother as long as it gets its fees
  24. was this from rock machinery if it is it will be ok

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