blazer

You haven't seen a Toyota LC70 series then:001_tt2:

It's the 'Blackthorn winter' time, always goes back to winter when the white flowers appear - totally reliable:thumbup1: Daffs are coming out earlier now. I remember when Daffs always came out - one week after mothers day, now thanks to global warming I save a few quid.

By been 'made aware' does that mean an email to the managers, or a more formal approach? Some won't like the idea of pointing it out, they see themselves a bit like Charles 1st - born with the right to rule. I have been helping out there for 15 yrs, and enjoy it but the dangers from trees is a concern. There is a HSE visit to the estate soon, not sure what areas they will be covering? As far as being aware of danger to beaters etc - last year they carried on with the shoot during a heavy snow storm, madness.

Many thanks - I will pass it all onto the head keeper & estate managers.

I help out P/T on a large estate with paths, bridalways etc, wonder off route areas and a large shoot 250 bird days covering most of the estate. Knowbody is into woodland management, with the head keeper having most of the say what happens in the extensive woods, but doesn't want the woods disturbed, there are boughs hanging up/down, trees hungup & morbidly obese dead trees - I don't enter the woods on a windy day. There are the public assess area paths etc but also during the shoot season up to 20 beaters walking in line through the woods. Whats the libility? bit difficult to call an incident an accident with the woods in that state. Basicly who takes the 'wrap' if there is an accident? What woodland management should be practically done to improve safety? What if any are the 'requirements' that should be followed, for woods on a shooting estate? Thanks in advance

Some of my best friends are 'Druids' Years ago I worked out how 'Dolmans were built' so I started building 'dolmans with 5 tonne capstones' these ended up in National papers and I was eventually contacted by a group of Druids to build the first large stone circle by hand for 4,000 years. I agreed to get them started by spending a week with them, really had quite a time. Got off to a bad start, I arrived looking like a construction worker and most had just been evicted from the Newbury bypass but we sorted that out. Got bogged down with 'rituals' but as they saw results with erecting 10 tonne stones all went well. I came back when all was finished and the had their night time 'Pagan ritual' - lots of flesh. Understood them alot more afterwards:thumbup1:

Saw this one coming after a few 201T reports, so brought my son a new 200T quickly:sneaky2:

Have you had many flywheel keys shear Spud? bit odd as they are not on load. Had a few go in motor bikes but I'm sure it was due the damage on the taper shaft, bit like a big drill with the load on the drill tang. Popping back through the carb is a bit odd, as I have heard of old scooters with the timing a bit advanced sitting at trafficlights and when the lights changed they shot off backwards - the engine had reversed crank direction:lol: It's always hard when the patient is not in front of you

As Above ; Blue smoke = oil, black smoke = extra fuel, as in been overtaken by a hot motor. I assume your oil/fuel mix is ok, if it's not that I could be oil getting into the crankcase, 2 ways of doing that crank oil seal or a crank case oil leak. I worked on my old 266XP a while ago on the oil pump with the crank oil seal out and some oil got onto the crank bearing, on restarting - yep it belched blue smoke for a while, but yours is doing it all the time? You could try draining all the chain oil out, remove bar etc and run it for a while - if it clears then you have a crank problem or go for plan B and take it back. Always hard to tell from a distance:thumbup1:

Loved the RD Yamahas but I had a 1970 T500 Suzuki from New, from memory it produed 47 hp also a Bultaco Matador 250, produed 24 hp. Which worked out at a pre tune level of 100hp/ltr, which I considered as a pre tune level. My son has a XT660 Yamaha (on condition I go on the insurance:sneaky2:) that is about 50 hp a bit under but can be upped, normally smaller engines will have a higher power ratio, so the 460 at 80cc could go up a bit - but not my old D7 BSA, never did sort that one out:thumbdown: From looking on the mainly USA Arborist site, where the twin port is std, alot of 'red necks' talk about not 'babing their new saws' = flat out from first fill up. Although from all the pictures of siezed up saws I'm not convinced. I brought a tacho for my saws a while ago, partly to check out the 460 when moded but also found most of my saws over reved, some are 10 yrs old and had no probs but was a bit concerned for my sons new MS200T at 15K rpm, so I had to remove all the H restrictors to up the fuel to get he max revs down to spec. One comment from a post say 6 months ago was,' I have known alot of bike tuners damage saws', never found the answer but assumed they went for free revving:confused1:

The twin port exhaust is standard issue for North America and Aus- so all I did was alter the tune to match to ensure it wasn't running weak, it's pulling extra power because the fuel is correct for working on full load, the 3/8-8T sprocket ensures it's under full load with a 16" bar - in fact it hardly drops any revs under working load. By the way I started to tune bikes since say 1965 - sort of picked up a bit of experience over the years:thumbup1:

Happened to spot this film on 4 this afternoon, made in 1952 as per normal the film was the same as any Western from the era but the good bit was authentic film of big trees being felled by axe & cross cut saws. They showed some really good shots, including working left/right handed with axes putting a gob in on a really big tree, and a row of say x6 steel wedges being hammered in the crosscut slot to fell the tree - could be good for my upcoming CS32:lol: It also showed big logs being moved off hills with steam engines into rivers etc but as it wore on it reminded me of wet Sunday afternoons as a kid watching boring films so I switched off, when the baddies felled a big tree over some 'old boys log cabin' as if he didn't have time to get out using a cross cut:sneaky2:

My son used to watch it when he was 3 yrs old (the part where the all urinate over the captians car) with his gran saying is it ok for him to watch:confused1: Brill film, the one by 'bradolf Pitler' is lets say unwatchable:thumbdown:

You won't like my MS460 then - I turned it into a MS460 GTi, quite easy really. Fitted a twin port exhast, removed the 'H' restrictor to open up the fuel, so it will 4-stroke at 13.5K rpm but clears back to 2T under load, drinks twice as much fuel. Fitted double dogs and for 'fun' fitted a 3/8-8T sprocket and a 16" bar with a good chain - the performance is awesome, well lets say it makes my MS 390 and 266XP perform like 'push and go toys. I have used it to cut up a 3ft oak bough from both sides, then cut into blocks as it has 'wavy grain' and won't split easy. Yep its the tool:thumbup:

did simular once, took the 'Scrap metal' sign off the skip and put on a guys new car -

Every time I fit a new chain I also find a nail - or it feels like it. Recently fitted a new blade to a 10 yr old Silky - yep hit a nail, will try and resharpen it with a small oil stone.

Seen the same post from 3 yrs ago - just wondered if anybody has used/bought one since. Noticed quite a few companies stock them, and being 1/2 the price of the best, it's tempting. I need one for occasional use when I can't get a truck in. Thanks in advance:thumbup1:

Had lime sap on my L200 when I brought it - took T-cut to remove it.

How about the old 'chainsaw mitts' ? last saw them 10 yrs ago, never had any but they were a real pair of w/spanners to wear. Used to ware them all the time as I didn't know the risk level but after posting on arbtalk with a high sample rate not wearing them, I assumed the risk was lower than I thought - so don't wear them so often. I do check chains for link wear and remove the chain if it starts juddering - never had one break.

to run it through the cam & bal belts are behind the covers - change them just to play safe. The bottom pulley is bonded, so if it slips the belt load goes through the PAS belt - (mine did when I brought it, found out when I went to change the cam belt) What happens is as the bottom v-belts are not driving, the belt load goes througth the alternator and water pump, as the water pump pully will now slip under extra load the mistake is to tighten the belts more - damages the water pump - which is a sod to change ( I heard a bearing noise from the water pump, so changed it while it was it bits). So I changed the bottom pulley, cam/bal belts, water pump and v-belts etc 2-yrs ago, ran fine since - until the head went, changed all the belts again to too play safe, bottom pulley is ok but will check it again this year. No big probs if you are ok on motors, just rad out and line up all the cam belt timing marks carefully - always crank the motor over with a spanner first. Doing it myself it was cheap - spares from Milners off road.

Expect to see 'blue tape' around your house soon Spud, been nice knowing you mate:sneaky2: If you use the 070 every month - thats regular use to me, plus it's a spare working unit. For what you will get for it, keep it.

They must have used this scam before with plant equipment - nick and sell back, makes sense for the best price and not getting their hands dirty. Needs a 'sting operation'.

No - alot can't read or write. A group came into a 'pie pub' and asked for a steak, the waiter realized their problem and helped them out. Loads more examples if needed, I'm not against them just different systems. It's a different game dealing with them, as other posts have noted, it's like horse trading by handshakes.

Many can't read & write, so written contracts are out. How about 'cash per tree' as you work along the row, maybe allowing a bit to cover the last tree if they don't pay:sneaky2:

According to my Dad yrs ago, brackets my additions Hamlet - small village but no church village - has it's own church - parish boundry etc. (+ parish council that can put up notices to stop ball games). town - has a town hall. (not sure about a market place, some large villages have market places) city - cathedral. (drop out centre) So you can have St Davids the size of many villages is a city, many of the large villages with massive wool churches around here are still villages. Alot changed with the decline of the wool trade and the railways towns that grew in Victorian times. Hope that doesn't spoil the fun - enjoyed reading the other posts:thumbup1: For me a village must have it's old group of 'swingers'