doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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updated (2020) costs of taking on a first employee
doobin replied to deezyboy's topic in Business Management
4x sounds excessive. My guy doesn't cost me anything like that and I look after him well. At a guess I'd say 1.5 to 2x their wage. Employers liability is a legal requirement, so don't forget that. PPE is a one off cost if you don't have stuff already in their size. If you can find a good guy who actually wants a steady job, it's a weight off your mind and you'll wonder why you bothered with entitled prima donna subbies for so long. -
If you give the chinks a good design (Honda/Stihl) to copy (or they steal it...) they reproduce it very well indeed. Can't fault my Loncin engines.
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How much do you charge as a subbie for the use of your own truck?
doobin replied to Brian Jones's topic in Arb-Trucks
This. If a subby wanted £150 for his Transit I'd just tell him to go via the hire comapny on his way to work... -
It'll just be down to the viscocity. Bevel drive lube might have moly in it too or something. Hedgecutters would like a thinner grease otherwise it sticks in the top casing and doesn't get on the con rods. Don't sweat it.
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No you need to drill and tap the existing plug.
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Hedgecutters definately need it, and regualrly otherwise it just dries up and sits in the casing but nowhere near the con rods. However any lithium agricultural grease will do- I drilled and tapped mine for grease nipple to make it quick and easy.
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Grass in ounces, coke in grams.
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Update- called my local dealer and asked the question. A day later they called to say they'd fitted a 3/8 bar and sprocket to one for me to try. Went to look, got him to change it to 16" and a deal was done- there's service for you (DM Chainsaws- top guys) Initial impressions are good. The main negative (and it's a big one for me) is that it's on rubbers, not springs, and it's noticeable after coming from an MS241. However I don't notice the small increase in weight so much, it's very fast (you can feel more power especially on small cuts) and it comes with a 2 year warranty which suggests they give more of a **************** than Stihl (not hard I know). I hope if the crankshaft starts to wear on this after 13 months they will be more proactive than Stihl (still waiting to hear back on that one...) Hope this helps someone.
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Parbuckled. Yes you can shift some gear with that. It’s how the old matadors moved some massive butts to the mills back in the day.
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Briggs are shit, about time they folded.
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I didn’t when I bought fuel earlier.
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Yes I like the T-clips. Save their money in time and a neat finsh. for single stand wire I'd not bother (and pull to middle with one gripple) but for stock net I tie off one end with t clips, strain past the other and and staple off and then quickly tie off/pull t clips tight with the gun, tapping the wire with a hammer if needed to centralise it. Half the faff of pulling two lengths of stock net together and joining in the middle, and a pretty similar end result, correct to fencing principles. The only risky bit is when you cut the wire and it's only held on the staples- be careful not to knock it and loose tension.
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Yep pi$$Ed init You’ll find it quicker and easier once you get your eye in for plumb. Levels are for sawn posts, not field fencing. without a diagonal brace wire returning the push force from the fence pulling to the bottom of the strainer post that horizontal strut ( should be round too imho) isn’t doing bugger all. It also needs to be longer, 8’ is normal for box strainers. im a fan of stapling off to finish as it’s quicker but only if you then loop round once and tie off so the wire can pull central. Doing it like you do looping round a few times means the post is likely to spin in the ground and the strainer assembly will fall apart.
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First thing to do is ditch that level mate.
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You read my mind. Does anyone know if you can run 3/8 picco on the echo? Also tempted by the Makita just because it's so much cheaper and I'm a big Makita battery tool fan.
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Certainly bloody seems to. This is my second MS241 that has developed crankshaft wear and started eating bearings after only light use. It's currently back at Stihl HQ awaiting 'evaluation'. What's the best alternative brand equivalent? Can't seem to find anything else so light with so much power. It's an ideal digger cab saw. Has anyone tried the Echo CS-501SX? At 2.57kw and 4.7kg dry it's pretty close to the MS241s 2.3kw and 4.5kg
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Yup. But it says 27 on the side, so it’s 2.7 tonnes officer.
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Sorry mate but you got no Viking left in you. Would Eric the Red have worn a face mask? Would he ****************.
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I can't see you get much more with the 507 to be fair- all the add ons will be pricey and look pants. What use is a 60cm 7.5hp flail mower?
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My quote had extra counterweight ticked? Hope I’ve actually got it!! Maybe you could post a pic of your arse? I mean, the e27s arse....
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I echo MB re zero turn. Never again, especially for arb/land clearance work- it's never that tight, else you'd be using a micro digger (I don't mind my micro being ZTS!) Plus as said, they are so much more tippy. Another vote for E27 too. Additional counterweight is standard UK spec (I think) and there's really not that much overhang. It's also got more power than the E27z, which is important for things like a flail. Nice dumper. Is it yours? I bought a Yamaguchi 1.8t tracked dumper last year, bit smaller than that but quite a lot less money and perfect for most of my jobs.
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Does sound like a shit design with a needless weak point built in.
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You can buy non marking tracks. Not sure which sizes but they are about for applications like factories etc.
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I don't run chippers, but I usually equate such weasel words from a dealer with a certain other chipper dealer...?
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Better clarify what condition you want them in?
