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Everything posted by APC
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4" of oak-based mulch to dripline wherever it's not tarmaced. Perhaps dmp at height of low fruiting body then a metre above to take baseline readings for further drilling in 3 years time. Reinspect in 1 year.
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tidy brash to edge of coupe and stack in a tidy line. soon disappears in bramble and honeysuckle.
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interesting! how often are you surveying this tree? or is it more like constant survey whenever you walk past it? how long ago was it cleared around as looks like used to be more densely wooded.
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got our head donated to us. it was pucka though, really sorted brambles a treat. you can mash stems of finger thickness woody vegetation to ground level too, like a mini stump grinder. I don't know of many people using them but I've seen a lot of people crying into their harnesses while using a tri-head on brambles.
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Or bite the bullet and get a mulching head for a brushcutter. That way you won't have to use the mower one handed as you pile into a sea of impenetrable sodding brambles.
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scag with flail head.
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hose the mud off them, washing machine then airing cupboard.
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Imagine the large proportion of decay would be at or below ground level; the roots could have been totally buggered. There's one with FB's around the entire circumference on a golf course near me, with Ganoderma 2-3' above. I'm waiting for that to go down!!
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Was out cutting willow and alder on a marsh today. Was horrific. Left site just after 3 though and abused the shower facility at work.
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I'm sure 'in the flesh' it would be much more straightforward
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At the risk of sounding completely thick, surely that's Inonotus dryadeus? Even looking through Google images, I can't find a pic of Fistulina looking like that?
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Handsome!
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Begbie.
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bung in some Sumach too. make sure you dig in a root barrier on your side.
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when my Begbie launched my entire bowl of rice crispies off the tray on my lap onto the sofa and floor I rather hoped he'd adopt that approach. but he didn't.
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having said that, I.just.looked on HCC's website and it would appear I'm wrong!
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it may well be.but I'm.fairly certain that hcc's course doesn't fulfill the criteria.
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not done cs34. had a 25" hornbeam filled with nails and a 30" oak to learn on though. Read the AFAG notes prior to both and didn't die. Really enjoyed both trees.
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Off up there in a couple of weeks for an ancient tree mgt training day. last time i was there was for a job interview for snr ranger where dr helen read took me round and I asked her if decisions on vt mgt were made on site or by specialists. few weeks later i noticed in the Ancient and other Veteran Trees book that her name appeared rather prominently. I facepalmed pretty hard.
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I think someone has the impression that the HCC course is all you need. Apologies if that's not the case. The HCC course provides you with the theory to do the exams. HCC and ABC are not affiliated and you have to arrange the exams through a local college. It's certainly a good way of doing it if you can handle not having many people to tap up for info, but completing the HCC course doesn't get you the ABC theory nor the RFS cert.
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nice pics!!!
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Not lichen then?
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Ayo!!! Veteran oak, feature tree on a common, dbh 154cm, much amenity and bio value, although compaction to much of rooting area caused by car parking. Car parking area is covered in type1 or similar. There is money available to airspade although I think the money could be spent wiser. How would be best to remove the layer of scalps? I'm guessing by hand with spades. I would prefer to scrape surface and lay a decent layer of mulch and spend available money on shifting the carparking spaces along 10 metres. I'm not convinced that airspading won't blast away fibrous rooting and cause accelerated decline. Perhaps it could be something to be tried if positive results aren't demonstrated with decent mulching after 4-5 years? Apologies about the single paragraph.
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I seem to remember yesterday being really good.
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£75.00 minimum.
