MikeTM150

Thats half the price of the new T7.235 NH tractor sat in my yard, and probably much cheaper to run and much quicker to return profit on its investment! How many tons of wood do u sell a year nick?

i like the idea of a bank and hedges but that won't be cheap either but it'll look a damn sight prettier than a wire fence system!! Hope you can get some pics up for us to see!!

if u can pack the thorn into a bag and onto a courier then i'd have them at the right price to make it worth you doing. Also some ash at around12-24" would be welcome my way, but depends on how many u wanna get rid of at a time?

Mac Many thanks for those thoughts, i think ur right with the deer problem being a ongoing problem with coppicing. One that i hadn't really thought of! Think i'm going to have to think a bit harder about the cost of this because deer fencing for 6 acres is going to be cheap!! Good job deer taste good otherwise i'd put them in the badger (even the ones with a billock!) pain in the arse bracket!

sat infront my Jotul F100 right now, small machine big power!!! Love it, though don't do i what i did and smash the glass in the door, £80 for a piece 14inches by 10inches i know its special glass but that hurt!!! Serves me right for trying to ram a log in with!!! Go for it, well made cast iron, its worth the £££££'s:biggrin:

Ha ha ha ha i was wondering for a while what u were meaning, thinking 'damn have i missed an easy option' tis like that sometimes simplicity becomes complexity of its own making!!!! I like critism, it only makes u stronger, or drunk...........:lol:

from my view there's no such thing as an accident anymore, someone has always got to be responsible. Don't get me wrong some HSE is good, but some is twaddle, you can't risk asses for stupidity! And i personally think the more u tell people how things should be done, it stops them THINKING for themselves and considering the risk before they make an action....... The risk assement for our farm is a file 4inches thick which is provided by the NFU as part of my insurance, do we read it...... of course:lol:!!!! But if we followed it by the letter, i'd have no employee's cuz they'd have all got diddled off with it and i'd need 10times the number to do the same work! Common sense and ur own brain are ur best safety assests but HSE don't see it like this:thumbdown:

If i put it in the h-beam, how would that stop the ram? It needs to 'lift' the rod to move the vlave into neutral position?

now i'd agree with this but current experience is proving otherwise, my relief tractor driver managed (not sure how!) to hit a eleccy pole with our tractor whilst mowing silage. He snapped it off about metre high and the top of the pole was being held off the ground by about a foot cuz of the eleccy cables. Now they came out about 6pm, erected new pole and buggered off, they obviously took all the details of who, what and the like and i expected to see a nasty bill in the postbox fairly smartish........ but that was late june and still no bill...............

Um, badgers.....not my favourite topic but lets no go down that route here, other than there general destructive nature i'm guessing u reckon they'll trash the new shoots that grow up after coppice and dig around the stools damaging the stools? Deer fencing isn't going to be cheap, i'm guessing £10/meter? Also i'm wondering what the future is gonna hold when its grown up into nice sized stands and i start chopping them down, are the greenies going to get their knickers in a twist? We do suffer with the london greenies who come to the country for the 'good' life but don't have a clue how we do things......oh yeah and shock horror u find big farm machinery on rural roads........:001_huh:

i'm glad i'm not the only one who gets these kinda phone calls, i find the hanging up departement to be good or the 'hang a minute i'll put u on hold and transfer u to the right person' and just pass them round my chaps for a quick chat before finding there in the wrong department on every occasion. Did have one call centre who i hung up on, then rang me back and put the phone down on me once i'd answered it (fell into that trap didn't i!)

i like to think i'm fairly good with heights, but thats way out my league!!!!!:001_rolleyes:

wow, never thought this would generate so much discussion:thumbup: from what i can make of what you lot are saying is, plant a bit of everything, cut it down when its ready and plonk it on the fire!!! But i do have some serious concerns over deer, i like to think most end up in the wife's aga with a bed of red wine but in reality i'm sure there's some that like to nibble! Is deer fencing the only way of 100% keeping them out and will they always be a problem eating regrowth when i coppice it? so syc/ash/robinia and some euc if i can find a suitable variety?

Thats some brilliant idea's, i'm 30yrs old and want it for the rest of my life and hopefully my childrens to! So oak is good and will produce some nice firewood, its only for my own consumption so it will be as i am now, if it;s wood and its well seasoned i'll burn it. I've got a small 6acre field thats too small for our big kit really and is stuck out on a limb of the farm so i was gonna plant that field up, so i have plenty of space for different tree's and different growth rates to occupy the same space. What variety of EUC would u suggest? Can see so far, sycamore/ash/robinia/oak being the fav's, probably stay away from populars we've got a few lines of them around the farm and the suckers are a pain to keep controlling and just keep spreading!

hi I want to plant some coppice for producing firewood for my own use. Been reading some threads on here, but can't see the wood for the tree's so to speak? I've been considering a mixture of ash/sycamore/sweet chesnut but then some would make me think alder or birch are worth considering? I know its all a matter of opinion and there's no hard fast rule but tell me ur thoughts! Oh yeah it will be on cotswold brash at around 500feet on what i class as poor arable land. Many Thanks in advance!

i have to give it does look cool from the other direction! especially ur magical powers that sucked the timber back up to the top of the tree!!!!

would u be happy to assume that its safe to use and have the required stamps to ensure it meets safety regulations......... its probably not a saw a 'professional' would buy so leaves it to general public to buy and use who perhaps don't realise the safety issues that maybe present!

ahhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeemmmmmm CHINA my lord!

hi shame ur not closer cuz i'd be interested in buying that, could u take some pics of the whole machine perhaps i might take a punt on it and get it shipped down er!

I've gotta say mate, u do a very good service, its refreshing to see someone who still believes in 'repairing things' not just fitting new parts or condeming as scrap because 'its just not worth it'. Winds me up when someone looks at my workbench and says 'why the hell are u bothering to fix that scrap!', because its satisfying, hopefully cheaper and therefore worthwhile doing!!! Though i have to admit sometimes i get it wrong. Know where i'll be sending any chainsaw i can't get to work!

Right here u go, a few pics and i'll try to describe how it works! First pic just shows what it looks like, properly agricultural! 2nd pic shows the rod that comes up from the foot pedal assembley to operate the control level and if u look carefully u maybe able to see the 'r-clip' which you can move to adjust the height to which the ram returns. 3rd pic shows the guide attached to the splitting wedge plate that guides the rod and 'lifts' the r-clip when it comes up to stop the ram in the upper position. 4th pic just shows the 'r-clip' and hopefully if u can see them the holes which u can select to stop the ram at a different height in the upper position for differing height logs if u want to, thus saving wasted time returning right to the top everytime if ur only doing small logs. 5th pic shows the pedal assembley underneath the table, with the added return spring to help bring the rod down when your foot is taken off to make the ram return back up. So basically you put ur foot on the pedal until the ram decends and the log is split (i have quite a sharp narrow blade that comes within a few millimeters of the tableso it will cut any stray wisps of wood), you take ur foor off and a combination of the return spring and the weight of the actuating rod bring the pedal into the up position which then makes the valve lever move into the down position making the ram return upwards. As the ram lifts the guide attached to the splitting wedge plate travels up the rod until it reaches the r-clip and lifts the rod and consequently the control lever into the neutral position. I use a 'detent' on the control lever just to make sure it 'flicks' into its desired positon fully and easily. The other lever on the right is for the log lift that i haven't quite got fitted on yet!!!! Hope that helps and is not too complicated to follow!

i'll get the camera out and take some pics for you!!! I apologise in advance for the colour of the machine, but i ordered DARK green paint for a grain store and its painted in what was left over!!!!!

can't comment on either but i'll let u know in 10yrs as both maybe become a problem soon!!!:thumbup: