jrose

well if you want something to do this summer I have a land rover that needs the brakes and steering looking at, probably some welding, power steering is noisy, starter motor is shagged, new tyres would be nice, electrics are all over the place, could do with all the oils changing. Oh and dents bashing out and maybe a repaint if you're up for it. It's not for sale mind, but I may kindly buy you a pint once all that is sorted! Let me know what weekend you want it, that should be enough time yes?

sounds like we're in agreement crafty weasel there are more risks to the hands then simply being cut by the saw, and these aren't always taken into account by H+S!

I do wear thick leather gloves if that's what you mean, what I was trying to say is I go for gloves that are resistant to thorns as opposed to those with cut protection... I haven't ever found a pair of gloves that have both cut protection and thick enough to withstand thorns, the palms especially seem to give way at the sight of a thick clump of bramble!

just because you mentioned gloves, I thought I'd post this... I never wear chainsaw gloves, I am self employed so as far as I'm aware I'm not breaking any rules just guidelines. I do have a pair that live in the truck, but they very rarely see use only when I'm working with someone I haven't worked with before and want to show H+S awareness. Why? A significant amount of my work is with blackthorn/hawthorn, gorse and bramble - hedgelaying and scrub clearance. I have yet to find a pair of chainsaw gloves that can last for any amount of time. To my mind, it's more of a risk if my hands are constantly getting torn up then I'm more likely to get some sort of infection or lose control of the saw. And if I was buying a £20 pair of chainsaw gloves every week to replace the old pair, that's yet another expense I can't really afford at the moment! I do wear all other PPE, and wouldn't have someone work for me who didn't. But, I couldn't care less if you wear proper gloves or not. hope this helps...

I don't know what yours will come with, but whatever it is should be fine for your CS30/31, I haven't heard of anyone being turned away because of the wrong type of chain...

my Landy 110 pickup is insured with NFU, reasonably cheap. I'm a young driver as well at 22, however my mother has been with NFU for years which may be why I got a good deal...

beat me to it!

was one of the last cars to drive by a police car? can't really tell, but if I'd been a copper driving by I might have stopped and had a word at least...

I just recently found out about this scheme, gives you a free yourname.co.uk address and easy to set up Getting British Business Online

fancy paying £60 for what I can only assume is a standard chainsaw spanner? and a casual £16.65 for postage as well... 1 spanner on eBay (end time 10-Jan-11 09:41:53 GMT)

mine didn't leak when new either, I'd be sending it back asap.

that looks a bit foreign to be honest, never trust a fibreglass handle but yeah that's a billhook alright lovely tool for kindling

I've had a blackthorn under my thumbnail for about 6 years, it slid right under there while doing something at college, I forget what. Nearly in the white bit at the bottom, so I didn't fancy digging it out just left it to grow out on it's own with the nail! 6 years later it hasn't budged, I reckon if it was going to cause a problem it would have done by now...

I don't climb, and for the near future have no intention of getting my climbing tickets.... Helmet - if you're not climbing, either the Stihl or Husqvarna helmet is fine. Don't go for a really cheap one unbranded one like you sometimes get free with saws, the muffs are crap and visor won't stay open when you want it to in my experience Gloves - I don't know many people who bother with the protective gloves, at 20 quid a pair they work out a bit expensive! I don't think they're required by law (but could be wrong), I'd get one pair to do your course with and while you get the hang of the saw, after they're worn out see what you think best then Trousers - I have a pair of the cheapo Stihl type A trousers, suit me fine. When they wear out I'll probably replace them with something a little more comfortable, but they're adequate enough for this not to be a priority. Boots - don't get the wellies! Especially as you're not meant to tuck the trousers in, they rub your legs raw. You can get a pair of boots for about 65 quid: Cofra Woodsman chainsaw boots | F R Jones and Son I wear Stein Bergsteigers 105 pounds from above site. hope this helps

Hi All, I want to get a new sprocket for my secondhand Husky 365, my question is which is better, 7 or 8 tooth? I see both are available, what are the differences? Saw has a 20" Powermatch bar (3/8), if this makes a difference cheers, Joe

don't know about the oregon oil specifically, but I tend to mix it at 50:1 no matter what the brand of 2 stroke. That being said, I do only use Stihl or Husky oil, occassionally Makita oil but not often. I try and steer clear of the Tescos own 2 stroke but that's just me!

here Petrol Chainsaws Makita - Lawson HIS - UK

snow that sits on the bonnet and then melts, dripping down inside and out the bottom?

I have an old MS180 you can have for free if you can get to Gloucester to pick it up, it will need a new needle bearing and circlip as the old circlip pinged off and the bearing stuck itself to the side of the clutch cover! These shouldn't be more than a tenner I wouldn't have thought, drop me a PM if you're interested I don't think anything else is damaged but can't gaurantee it, anyway if it's of any use it's yours it has a 12" bar/chain cheers, Joe

I'd also vote for a larger saw - a 359 or 357xp, only 20 quid more on F R Jones site and much more suited to an 18" bar. I had an 18" on my 346xp originally but swapped it for a 15" as the longer bar was too much for that saw. also if you can strech to it I'd look at a 365, I love mine. Same saw as the 372xp but smaller engine, but will run a 20" no problems. cheers, Joe

to be honest I just use the standard bar/chain that comes with the MS171. It is the only saw I've found that comes with 1.1 guage chain as standard, as opposed to 1.3 on the 181, all small Huskys etc... the .2mm does make a lot of difference! I have got a carving bar and 1/4" chain, but very rarely need to use it. cheers, Joe

when I'm coppicing my 346xp stays in the truck as a backup, and my normal carving saw comes out - Stihl MS171 with standard 14" bar. lovely saw for coppicing, nice and light also very narrow chain makes nice cuts and because the standard bar tapers slightly it's easy to wiggle into the narrow bits when needed.

I've got the cheap Stihl one, the HS45. I wouldn't reccomend it, it does an alright job but vibrates like anything not comfortable to use for more than an hour or so. I only trim a very few hedges, so if I find myself using it more than once or twice a summer I'll be upgrading and it'll be the backup! cheers, Joe

I've always thought that when I get a dog, it will be named after a rapper. That way, you get a short name easy to shout across fields, and a long name for when it has been bad and you need to show it who the boss is. Example: Yo Biggie! or NOTORIOUS B.I.G! What the hell do you call this mess?

not as detailed an answer as the one above, and I could be completley wrong! but I tend to stand the carving on bricks or similar for a few weeks after finishing, to allow the moisture to drain out, keep it in the shade not direct sun if in the summer, and treat with danish oil 6ish coats. this seems to help stop splitting! cheers, Joe