richyrich
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Everything posted by richyrich
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just wondered if anyone knows why 338 xpt was discontinued? got one, only criticism is air filter dusts up very quickly and its craply held in place by bolt that retains the outside plastic cover.
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i get the numbness in thumbs and forefingers. its defo from vibration of machinery. had it worse a few years ago- it does come and go. recently bought a stihl fs90r strimmer with loop handle. advice- don't buy one- with todays technology they should not be selling gear like this!! i will be putting a saw attachment on it instead as it's too vibey as a strimmer. you can get hands tested- they use electric shocks to test nerve impulses, etc
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From the album: ash
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From the album: ash
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From the album: ash
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From the album: ash
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From the album: ash
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loler inspector required between york/leeds/wetherby
richyrich replied to richyrich's topic in General chat
thanks for assistance. messaged ic, but messages did not seem to be going through!! cheers -
loler inspector required between york/leeds/wetherby
richyrich replied to richyrich's topic in General chat
will do, thanks! -
i am looking for a loler inspector between leeds/york/wetherby ish area if anyone can recommend one or more? thanks
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not a narrow hinge cos i would not cut right up to the gob cut ( so its not a proper triangle- more a polygon, or something:confused1:). only really used on willows and occasional poplar:thumbup:
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ok, thanks!
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i won't be felling owt for a while but will do if something suitable crops up. its ok method for dropping big limbs- seems to avoid splitting to a certain extent ( ok for silkys ). i did drop a big crack willow and it fell in slow motion- suppose the hinge was pulling fibres up the trunk rather than working like a conventional hinge
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thats good to hear- did course 20 years ago so can't remember!
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is that the boring cut backwards leaving back of tree intact, then finish by cutting down? if so just found saw can get trapped with willows
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thanks! customer was considering digging some soil out to remove fungus and replacing soil in effort to stop spread to mature section of hedge- would this be futile?
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after just reading a thread on trees barber chairing, etc. - a technique i use on felling big leaners or sometimes big limbs (that you're supposed to do in bits) with trees first i take the gob out- nice and steep to avoid hinge snapping, then instead of boring backwards on the felling cut and leaving back intact. what i do is 2 separate back cuts at approx 45 degrees to the proposed hinge. this leaves a triangular hinge. keep cutting either/both back cuts making the triangle shallower until the tree goes- the tree should hopefully fall in a controlled manner (does not work so well for boughs). not sure if this is a recognised technique? just my method- i have tried back cutting with willows etc and saw sometimes would get stuck as the trees fibres twisted.
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thanks- think you right. did some research and has chunkier brackets than G. lipsiense/applanatum and also commoner esp. on beeches. id bit difficult as dead specimens:thumbup1:
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the fungus started in a waterlogged area of the hedge, then spread in various plants along the hedge- but not in a continuous row. a few metres away there is a mature beech hedge, about 12 x 12 ft- would it be worth taking the smaller infected hedge out to try and stop spread, or is this waste of time? thanks for th Ganoderma id:thumbup1:
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hard!
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oak and hazel are easy- plant them couple of inches deep in a bed in veg plot. ash and hawthorn are much easier to dig up as saplings as you need to know how to break dormancy to get them to sprout in spring, otherwise they take 18 months i think, !!
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could do with some help on this fungus id. it's been causing the beech in a customers hedge to die over last year or two. firstly the leaves are stunted, then eventually plants rot at base. photos are of old brackets- apparently colour was mousey brown when fresh. i looked on here and nearest i found was fomes fomentarius, but colour they described does not match up to light to dark grey as described on arbtalk!! also what could be done to stop it spreading- poss dig up adjacent plants and remove soil?
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i agree:thumbup1:
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villagers are good quality and very well made- a flue damper enables them to be shut right down. shop around on the net as prices vary alot. i got one from somewhere in wales- a few hundred off list price:thumbup1:
