richyrich
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Everything posted by richyrich
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after just reading a thread on trees barber chairing, etc. - a technique i use on felling big leaners or sometimes big limbs (that you're supposed to do in bits) with trees first i take the gob out- nice and steep to avoid hinge snapping, then instead of boring backwards on the felling cut and leaving back intact. what i do is 2 separate back cuts at approx 45 degrees to the proposed hinge. this leaves a triangular hinge. keep cutting either/both back cuts making the triangle shallower until the tree goes- the tree should hopefully fall in a controlled manner (does not work so well for boughs). not sure if this is a recognised technique? just my method- i have tried back cutting with willows etc and saw sometimes would get stuck as the trees fibres twisted.
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thanks- think you right. did some research and has chunkier brackets than G. lipsiense/applanatum and also commoner esp. on beeches. id bit difficult as dead specimens:thumbup1:
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the fungus started in a waterlogged area of the hedge, then spread in various plants along the hedge- but not in a continuous row. a few metres away there is a mature beech hedge, about 12 x 12 ft- would it be worth taking the smaller infected hedge out to try and stop spread, or is this waste of time? thanks for th Ganoderma id:thumbup1:
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hard!
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oak and hazel are easy- plant them couple of inches deep in a bed in veg plot. ash and hawthorn are much easier to dig up as saplings as you need to know how to break dormancy to get them to sprout in spring, otherwise they take 18 months i think, !!
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could do with some help on this fungus id. it's been causing the beech in a customers hedge to die over last year or two. firstly the leaves are stunted, then eventually plants rot at base. photos are of old brackets- apparently colour was mousey brown when fresh. i looked on here and nearest i found was fomes fomentarius, but colour they described does not match up to light to dark grey as described on arbtalk!! also what could be done to stop it spreading- poss dig up adjacent plants and remove soil?
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i agree:thumbup1:
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villagers are good quality and very well made- a flue damper enables them to be shut right down. shop around on the net as prices vary alot. i got one from somewhere in wales- a few hundred off list price:thumbup1:
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i set some perry going other month. i mashed them up in a tub with a birch branch. they were that juicy i didn't need a press- just put pulp in a t-shirt with its arms cable tied and squeezed the juice out. do not wash the pears as you are relying on yeast on them. put juice in a sterilised container with airlock and leave for a few months. apparently 2 stages of fermentation- 2nd one later on when weather warms up.
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fair enough!!
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i have had domestic stihl strimmers and saws in the past- i would not recommend them- go for a professional husky... or stihl- they will last 5 x longer, and more
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what happened to the 338xpt? i have one that i use part time. air filter is crap design- gets well dusted on outside, and is held together by the same bolt that holds outer casing to it. besides that no problem, so far!
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Native trees/shrubs for a windbreak?
richyrich replied to BobG's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
i'd maybe try hawthorn and hazel- you see plenty doing ok in yorkshire dales in exposed areas- mainly the thorn though! -
i've had a 365 about 13 years (part time use), and recently got a 346xp if you want just one get the 346. the 365 is too heavy for general/light tree work, but can't do without it for felling and cross-cutting big stuff. get both
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you can take 1-2 year old shoots/whips in march or april (or in summer ) and put them in a water butt or dustbin with about 12inch minimum water in. keep the water topped up as it evaporates,etc. these cuttings will get a really good root system. sallows do not root as well as osiers and tree willows. disadvantage is you have to wait til autumn/winter to plant them.
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thanks for replies- seen there is the cs47 (?) , but i guess this is more to do with the chainsaw use from mewp, rather than for just the mewp itself
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i was enquiring if anyone knows the situation regarding mewp hire- is a proper training course required? would a company hire a mewp without, and what's situation regarding p.liability, etc? thanks
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seen a few more this year including one i cut earlier in year- would say many are due to frost damage last winter!!
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how about cricket bat willow- fast growing, if they are no good for bats then burn them. i think they are better near flowing water, but not that important? italian alder is quick growing. think grey alder is not so good to burn ( i may be wrong). i wouldn't plant too many common alders if in a flood area, as possibility of getting phytophora ( spell check)?
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i think i will probably get a pair. i only do tree work part time, but never have much faith in the short spikes. i have some alloy bashlins with leather pads, and the buckinghams with velcro. the velcro ones are loads better- the bashlins dig into the legs.
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i currently use buckingham spikes with standard pole gaffs. i am just wondering if they would be better with the 60? mm tree gaffs, or whether these are more hassle ( spiking into trousers, etc) than the pole gaffs?
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yes- if the new chain does not solve it i will have to make more enquiries
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tried that thanks but the chain was that tight it did not want to move- even though it was 'slack' at the bottom- think its chain (see previous post)
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thanks for your replies- i have figured what the problem is.i tried it with an old bar and chain, it was fine. i checked that the new bar and chain were correct gauge. after playing with the chain and bar i noticed that the chain was riding up on itself and kinking- even jamming 2 links together. i sprayed loads of grease on - this did not make a massive difference. figured its a crap husqvarna chain (hopefully bar ok) - so i have ordered an oregon one- hopefully better, if not will have to try a new bar!!
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will do tomorrow, thanks!
