morten

As for the "bio" petrols, it doesn't really matter which brand you use, Aspen 2T or Stihl's equivalent (or any of the other brands available). They are all so called "Alkylate" petrol, which is a cleaner variant of petrol with much less (about 1%) environmental pollutants, e.g. Benzene, which is a health hazard. It has a number of other advantages too. The pre-mix (two-stroke) variants can be stored for extended periods in the saw, without separating. I find, that whenever I am forced to use normal petrol-oil mix (or I work close to someone who does) for a whole day, i get nausea. This doesn't happen to me when using Aspen 2T. For a detailed technical description of Alkylate, refer to Alkylate - Aspen

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Bring a freshly cut slice of a trunk to allow them to look and feel and guess how old the tree was - and have a small present to the one getting closest to the true age (you count IS the true age).

The height difference means that the fibres that bend do so over a greater distance, and thus breaks later, giving you a bit more control. How was that, for an explanation that makes no sense to anyone except the author

Pins and needles in the thumb, index finger, middle finger and one side of the ring finger is typically caused by "carpal tunnel syndrome", see http://www.medinfo.co.uk/conditions/carpaltunnel.html There are several treatments, one of which is a minor operation that severs a ligament in the base of the palm. I had that operation done a week ago (see picture), and it gave me instant relief! Only down side is that I've been told not to climb or operate a chainsaw for 6 weeks (I guess I'll follow that advise about 50% ).

The MS 192T is marketed in Denmark, but let me tell you, it isn't built for everyday use. The engine-body (for lack of a better term) is made from plastic rather than aluminium, and the engine lacks power. On the up side, it is a bit lighter. My partner uses a 192T, and I am tired of listening to his complaints about it. Just my 2 pennies worth

You should use Linseed oil ("Danish Oil" is a term used for a variety of oils, see Danish oil). Only use a "cold-pressed" or "virgin" variety of linseed oil, see Linseed oil. Linseed oil will, in the presense of oxygen, harden, and while doing so, it expands thereby filling the pores of the wood. Remember to dry off any excess oil from the surface of the wood within a few hours, as it will otherwise turn into a sticky substance. You can use a paintbrush to apply the oil and a rag to dry off the excess, but remember to soak the rags in water before disposal, as they can otherwise spontaneously combust.

Sure I can have it sent over (to Denmark), but £25 S&H and unable to deduct UK VAT is a no-go. The cost is not a problem, if it makes my life easier. If it saves time and effort daily, that's OK.

Thanks, but that is not installation from the ground (using throwline to install). I admit, that it's a rare occurrence for me to do that, but I can do it with my standard cambium saver, so...

If you have a tendency to overheat during summer, there is only one choice: Petzl vertex Vent. Choice of colours: red, orange, yellow, white, black (although black defeats the purpose of the vents). Standard peltor connection for visor

c'mon, just do it, and find a justification later

I know that Stihl's combi tools are not the cheapest, but how many hours do you need to save, to justify the expense of (£650 ex)... KM 130 R engine KM-HL 135° hedge trimmer KombiTools - Catalogue - STIHL They are great, and good to work with. But it's difficult not to be tempted to buy other tools for the system (blower, brush cutter, pole pruner)

My point is: If half the rope is soaking wet, you have to dry it anyway, so the whole thing might as well be wet. And in a mesh bag, at least it will dry (slowly) while stored in the bag.

Disclaimer: My business is located in Denmark, but I don't see why that should matter much. I am getting about 80% of my new business via my web site. The vast majority (90%) locates me via Google searches. At least half the business is generated via adword ads, the remainder via normal ("organic") Google search results. I have stopped using classified ads in the local papers, since the payback on the investment was far lower than using Google Adwords. The business that is being generated equals approx 1½ full-time employment (not counting jan/feb 2010 ) I should say that I have a background in the IT business, and have spent a lot of time optimising (SEO = search Engine Optimisation) the site and playing around with adword ads. If you are not desperate to get you business kickstarted immediately, I suggest you try out generating your own site with only a few pages. Start out with the free website offer detailed in this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/14559-free-web-site.html The site that backs this offer is hosted by Google sites.google.com, easy to work with and easily optimized Then start playing around with Google Adwords and Google Analytics (visitor statistics), and read som SEO guides to work on your Google rating. Google has a brilliant SEO guide here: Search Engine Optimization (SEO) - Webmaster Tools Help If you find the DIY approach too daunting, or you want your website to have an effect quickly and you have some money to invest (I guess £200 - £500 would get you going), I suggest you get someone to create a website for you, and do the SEO too. But watch out, there are a lot of fraudsters around. Do a little market research before committing to spending anything. Get references, and talk to their other clients about their experiences. Another approach would be to search google for... ARBORIST KENT ... or similar search terms, and have a look at top-10 search results, and find out who created those sites - they generate business. Also check the AdWords ads that are shown at the top and right hand side, and see which ones you believe will generate business. Let yourself be inspired by your competitors, but DO NOT COPY! Don't even copy a single sentence or adword ad. It is illegal (copyright infringement), and you might end up in court paying top £'s. Just take my word for it! Remember to limit the Adword Ads to the geographic area that you cover. No point in paying for AdWord clicks from Scotland. Hope you can use the advice. Good luck. Morten

Hi, I could really do with a single, adjustable friction saver, that can be installed and retrieved from the ground. The ART Rope Guide seems to do the trick (at an outrageous high cost, mind you), but I have been unable to find any good videos/pictures showing how to install/retrieve it, so you guys have any resources that could be of help? I honestly don't understand why ART didn't publish a youtube video of "the thing" on their website Ropeguide - Advanced Ropeclimbing Technology I will not even consider spending £200+ on a friction saver unless I know it's going to be worth it.

Without knowing any details about the accident and its cause, this is yet another reminder to us all about consistently holding our 200T's with BOTH HANDS, to give the chain brake an opportunity to save us. It really frightens me to see how many climbers use the 200T as a "one handed" chainsaw. I only ever use it one handed in exceptional cases, and only when in a stable stance and with considerable distance to other body parts.

I used a 346 XP TrioBrake recently for a few days, and i hated it. It kept on engaging the brake while snedding. I guess you can get used to the handle being there, but I really don't see the safety advantage anyway. So I've concluded: The TrioBrake is not for me

SherrillTree carry several ready-made prussik/ring combinations that are designed to be mounted on friction savers to make them adjustable: Friction Saver Prusik : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment http://www.sherrilltree.com/site/pdfs/FrictionSaverPrusik-Ins.pdf I have tried one on a few occasions, but would honestly say that I am not impressed. I am seriously considering making up one out of a piece of climbing rope, a carabiner and a mechanical adjustor (Petzl Micro-Grab).

I wrote to Stihl's public relations dept, with a reference to this thread, and I have just received an email from Stihl on the issue (see below) Stihl clearly acknowledges, that they have had (and still has) a problem with the twist-lock oil caps, and they are "working ... for a solution". Good on them!

The 361 is too heavy for a primary groundsman saw. My preference would be Stihl MS 260 or Husqvarna 346XP with a 15" bar.

I really don't see any advantage in having a water proof rope bag! If you climb in the rain, your rope is going to get wet, and I wouldn't put a wet (or even moist) rope into a water tight bag. Within hours, it starts smelling like old socks, and fungus growth sets in within days. Obviously, you intend to take the wet rope out and dry it properly, but if you forget it's much better to have a well-ventilated rope bag. SherrillTree used to have a mesh rope bag from Buckingham, and it's still depicted on their website, but I don't think it's available anymore... That would be my preference.

Skip-tooth or semi-skip chains require less power from the saw (as there are fewer teeth), thus allowing for longer bars.

The only thing you don't get for free, outside the UK, is the domain name xxxx.co.uk, all the rest is freely available from Google using this link: http://sites.google.com/ And although it can be a bit daunting to register a domain name and pointing it to your Google site, it won't cost you many $'s My site (Danish) is set up in Google Site too, and is available on Forside (omkap.dk Træfældning)

I am using the Kolibri (and Petzl Sequoia). The Kolibri is excellent, but in my view has two weak points: 1. The elastic ribbons that hold the leg loops connected to the main harness come loose very easily while working. I guess you could tie a knot in them once you have established the right length. 2. Itøs near to impossible to mount a Petzl Caritool clip to the harness - that sucks big time!

When the lifeline is under tension while beoing knicked by the saw (handsaw or chainsaw), there honestly isn't much difference between 11mm and 13mm rope. They both snap easily. So I don't think safety comes into it at all. Where 11mm and 13mm differ is: 1. Ease of handling (larger diameter is easier to pull) 2. Weight and volume.