morten
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Everything posted by morten
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The ultimate axes are from the swedish Gränsfors Bruks have a browse through their "products" section. All hand made from the best steel. They last a lifetime and may be bought anywhere.
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It's a MS-250, with a plastic body - not alloy like the 260. Hence the discoloring.
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In Sweden (and in Denmark) Aspen is also sold in 25 litre plastic canister. That seems to be the ideal size to carry around in the van. I then pour it into a 6 + 3 litre combi-canister (petrol+oil) to carry around. The AAOIL avatar shows the 25 litre canister on top of the 200 litre drum, why isn't it offered in the UK? http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/customavatars/avatar10861_1.gif
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High or low emission ... the dangerous part (to the operator) of emissions are benzene and other additives, and you can avoid them by using Aspen 2T alkylate petrol - Aspen alkylate petrol - Environmental fuels - Motor racing fuel & racing oil from Anglo American Oils UK: Suppliers of high performance motor sports fuels - oils & Lubricants. or similar alkylate petrol. You'll also notice a much reduced level of nausea after a full day's work. See also this posting http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/aspen-fuel/17678-its-time-wake-up-switch-aspen-fuel.html
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Yes, that knot is tied upside down. Dangerous, since it may suddenly slip when loaded.
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+1 A survey, some years back, at a DIY store showed that, given a choice, the DIY folks would always buy the saw with the longer bar, and disregard power/CC.
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Drift Innovation also have an HD version of the X170 called HD170, with some additional features such as time lapse recording (very low frame rate that allows you to play back hours of recording in seconds/minutes). See Drift Innovation - Home of the Drift HD170 and X170 for details. You can find a review of the X170 on this forum http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/business-software/12105-drift-innovation-x170-helmet-camera.html
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The 260/261 will run with an 18" bar, but it'll struggle a bit. You should run with 15" bar primarily, since it is much more comfortable than an 18" for 90% of your work, and then swap bar/chain when required. Be sure to get 18" bar/chain with the same dimensions (.325" / 1.6 mm) otherwise you'd have to change sprocket over as well, but I guess your Shihl reseller will sort you out OK.
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I'd recommend Gecko Aluminium with velcro top. The carbon spikes are much more expensive, more sensitive to damage (if you walk on hard surfaces, you'll damage the carbon fibres), and there is very little weight difference. I can wear Gecko all day without problems, they feel like they are glued to my legs.
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Climbing self tend lowering? due to bad grounds people!
morten replied to Danavan's topic in Rigging and roping
Yup, makes sense. Done that a few times myself, when I don't have a groundy on call. -
I wonder if a keylock crab inserted in place of the spike in the bowline would leave enough slack in the knot after heavy load is applied. Always have a steel crab lying around when doing rigging.
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Definately, get the high-end 4-mix KM130R engine, which allows you to drive all tools, and weight isn't as much of an issue, carrying it in a harness.
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While I like the idea of using a portawrap or steel-rescue-8 with a tie-off, I think you may exceed the SWL of the devices with, say, a 2.5 ton Tirfor. Mind you, there are no shock-loads and the MBS/SWL ratio should be 5/1 leaving ample room. See [ame] [/ame] for tying off a rescue-8 (cheaper and more lightweight than a portawrap)
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Got one and love it. But remember to get the flattened nozzle replacement - it's a lot more efficient i.m.o.
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But doesn't the CINCH only work on ropes up to 11 mm diameter? Whereas the ART Positioner will accept up to 13mm. Just something to consider.
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Really? Is it considered a violation of forum rules to link to outside information? After reading the forum rules Arbtalk.co.uk | Discussion Forum for Arborists - Forum Rules i noticed this section: But surely, linking to relevant information on an external site cannot be in breach of the forum rules, or? Links are the very essense of the World Wide Web! Come on, let us all benefit of the knowledge and post that link. BE BRAVE!
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As a result of a previous thread on the subject of the twist-lock oil caps http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/13520-new-type-stihl-oil-caps.html , I wrote to Stihl HQ and asked them to comment. Stihl acknowledged that a problem exists, and claim they are working on fixing it, see http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/262287-post67.html
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I am really happy with my Stihl Kombi System with the KM 130 R engine, HT-KM pole saw, extension pole and leaf blower. Expensive, but really nice Recently, I also purchased the HL-KM 135 hedge trimmer attachment, which is also great. But then again, I am a bit of a Stihl man.
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Loctite do produce threadlocking compunds especially designed for high temperature applications, see Loctite High Temperature Threadlockers It is rated at 650 Fahrenheit/350 Celsius, which should be sufficient for even exhaust bolts, or? The exhaust itself may get hotter, but it is the temperature in the thread itself that is important, here.
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The attached word document in the original post contained the picture below
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Have you tried applying some Loctite Henkel - Loctite to the threads. That should at least alleviate the problem.
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The ideal saw for you would be the MS200 (with back handle) it weighs in at 3.8 kg and is built to last (like the 200T and 260). But for reasons unknown to mny, Stihl have chosen not to offer the MS200 for sale in the UK (it is available in most other European countries: Germany, Scandinavia countries, ...) Sägen für die Forstwirtschaft | STIHL I guess I'd go for another MS260, if I was you, or consider a Husqvarna 346 XP. It has better fuel economy, and better accelleration IMO.
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I have had the disease for some years now in both hands and had an operation to one back in february which fixed the problem. But I'm still not fully recovered from the op. To alleviate the pain during night time, I have found it helps to stretch the fingers fully, possibly trapping the hand in a stretched-out position under the pillow, since it relieves some of the pressure on the nerves. BTW - you can tell if it is Carpal Tunnel Syndrome if the problem relates to thumb, index, middle and half of the ring finger, but not the other half of the ring finger and little finger, since the nerves to those do not go through the carpal tunnel.
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When clipping wings (or rather the primary flight feathers), do so on only ONE WING rather than both. This will make the birds "tilt" every time they attempt to fly and further impair their flying ability. Furthermore, you get the wing clipping done in half the time :-)
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Ditto! No point in having a bar longer than 15" when most stems are less than 12". Excess bar length makes your work harder than necessary.
