morten
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Everything posted by morten
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Sounds like an honest guy giving solid advice. I think I'd choose the 346, but if you are not going to use it on a daily basis, I guess the 350 will be spot on. Good luck with your new Husky!
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Advise the customer against it, as it'll be ugly (at best), and will likely die within few years. If the customer still wants it, butcher it . Cash in . And expect to be asked to butcher it again or even fell it, in a few years time
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Don't know the 350 personally, that's why I didn't suggest that one. To get recommendations on the husky saws, start a new discussion thread in the Chainsaws sub-forum Chainsaws - Arbtalk.co.uk | Discussion Forum for Arborists with an appropriate title, such as "Which Husqvarna: 346, 357, 350" or similar. That will draw the attention from guys who know and can help.
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+1 I have recently purchased two Expedition 65L Cargo Bag | Gelert for climbing/rigging gear. Sturdy bags, for sure.
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Husqvarna 346 or 357 are both great saws. You can easily fell 20" trees with a 13" bar.
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You forget that you have to pay import duty and VAT when importing stuff from NON-EU countries. Add that, and you'll end up paying at least £400. And you still end up with a non-pro (plastic crank-case) saw, with NO WARRANTY. You're better off finding a used Stihl MS026/MS260 (or Husqvarna 346XP), or saving up for a new one.
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Nope, a billion seconds ago, it was 1979. 60 * 60 * 24 * 365 = 31,536,000 seconds/year, which means 1 billion seconds is about 32 years The rest is spot on, though
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Looks like a real Stihl. But at $420 and shipping+VAT around $180-$230 you'll end up paying around £400 for a non-pro midrange Stihl saw without any warranty. Not worth it IMO.
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And the anti-vibration of the cheap saws are virtually non-existant. So if you use the saw regularly, it'll not only be underpowered, break down frequently, but it'll also damage your nerves in your hands causing numbness and poor circulation.
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Yet another source of counterfeit chinese Stihl MS 381 saws Stihl ms 381 Chainsaw/chain saw complete - Changsha Yalin International Trading CO., Ltd They are most likely all manufactured in the same factory, and exported via a large network of trading companies. I lived in China for more than four years back in the nineties, and have seen lots of counterfeit products getting shipped out.
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Although the MS 261 manual does not specify directly, the chain speed can be calculated from the tech specs section of the MS 261 manual http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/STIHL_MS_261_IM.pdf Here goes: MS 261 Tech specs Max power (ISO 7293): 2.8KW at 9500 rpm. High speed (no load): 14000 rpm. Sprocket: 7 teeth. Chain speed calculation Chain: 0.325" => 2 * 25.4 * 0.325 mm => 16.51 mm between drive links. One engine revolution moves the chain 7 * 16.51 mm = 115.57 mm. at 9500 revs/min => 9500 * 115.57 / 60 / 1000 m/sec => 18.3 m/s. at 14000 revs/min => 14000 * 115.57 / 60 / 1000 m/sec => 27.0 m/s. I doubt whether those figures actually does anything for you. But I guess one can conclude that the saw is "rated" at a chain speed of 18.3 m/s, for what it's worth.
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Lapsed pollards...shade makes the situation even worse?
morten replied to Xerxses's topic in Tree health care
New branches will break off easier since they are only attached to the trunk superficially (outer annual rings), whereas regular branches are attached all the way into the central annual rings. Combined with the fast regrowth, their size and weight make them break off easily in high winds. -
Parts list may come in handy, as well (attached) Stihl 026 Parts List.pdf
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LOL! Yes, indeed. The safest saw is a saw that cannot be started. For an extra laugh, have a look at this "safety device" that prevents kickback (or any other action) of a chainsaw: Safeguard Ventures producers of the Centurion chainsaw guard for protection against chainsaw kickback injury Mount that on a McCullock, and it will be totally safe. Even in the unlikely event that the saw is ever started.
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30% stretch makes the nylon 3-strand impossible to work with IMO
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Isn't a £500 starting bid a little steep for that saw? Stihl 066/MS660 Chainsaw on eBay (end time 30-Jan-11 11:59:47 GMT)
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Sounds interesting. I know that Statoil refines and markets (in some european countries) alcylate oil mixed "environmentally friendly" fuels for 2 stroke engines. Who is the original manufacturer of your "juice"?
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Do all professional chainsaw users think joe public users are fools?
morten replied to egnsean's topic in General chat
Unless you actually do the CS30, you won't know what you are currently doing wrong now, will you. Nothing to do with felling trees, buit all about maintenance and safe handling of a chainsaw. I have to agree with the saying: "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing" -
Rather than engraving the postal code (which does not identify you to anyone but the law), I suggest engraving your domain name/website. That way anyone can locate you simply. Obviously it is better with a short domain (like mine - a total of 7 letters). Engraving robrainfordarboristservices.co.uk is possibly not a good idea. If you don't currently own a website, go ahead and register the domain name, if nothing else, just as an alias for you. A domain name can be used to locate you (the registrar) easily. And the best thing... it's free (UK only) if you use this offer Getting British Business Online
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I have no wish to get into a Husqvarna vs Stihl debate, but thought I'd let you know that the Stihl MS261 has a marking (black line) right across the body, that lines up with the felling direction.
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The vast majority of bio-oils are made from rapeseed oil. The very same thing that is commonly used for cooking. Only the chain oil is treated with some "stuff" to prevent it from hardening. Don't know what that "stuff" is, though, but the oil itself is safe.
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I mostly use it to keep the kerf open. But occasionally (while climbing) I also use it to wedge over a stem, using a small hammeer. That is why the leash is mounted through the side. Otherwise you'd quickly break the leash.
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For the past two years, I have had a pocket wedge on a leash, via a Yo-Yo style retractor. I use it on the ground as well as while climbing, and it means I never loose a wedge - it simply retracts whenever it is released. As I haven't seen anyone else use one yet, I thought I'd leave a few pictures of it here, to pass on the idea. I have included a small spring-loaded clamp on the wire that I use whenever I don't like the pulling force of the retractor on the wedge. I rarely use it, but occasionally it is handy. Key retractors vary in quality. The wire length need to be sufficient, and the retraction force needs to be just enough to pull in the pocket wedge. Key-Bak makes some good ones, also for industrial/outdoor use, se Welcome to KEYBAK.COM
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In my view, the MultiSaver has a big problem: The size of the rings (smaller than conventional cambium saver rings) means that you cannot take down from the ground if you are climbing on 12+ mm rope. A spliced eye simply won't pass through the large ring. Or?
