Ewan Murray

Whoever idea that was Ben is awesome!

Ian or Dan will be able to answer this for you mate it does grap single line,but whether it is designed for single line use im not sure.

I have climbed in the rain dont enjoy it but will do it depending on the job at hand pruning big euc with even less traction no thanks! dont see the point in doing a bad job when it can be postponed for another day ground work or felling when possible if not a bit of maintenance. I dont like being asked to work in the rain when employers dont provide waterproof clothing...

Km III thats the line Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

I got this from Treestuffs FB page he said 1-2weeks

Whats the rubber roller thing for mate if im seeing it correctly?

Shiney

In my opinion with Australian arborists, the good ones as there are some awful loppers out there, I find that there climbing ablitity is very good due to the trees they have to deal with usually large eucs with long extended lion tailed limbs and dependant on species will have a very low anchor point, most access is done using throwlines, footlocking and srt, concepts that when i was in the uk was brushed off as a waste of time. The knowledge of tree pruning i believe is higher than that i have experienced in the uk. I have met tree officers at councils that dont like Pommies as they say our pruning standards are utter poo. However Brits i believe are better at cutting and felling as many arborists have been taught using large chippers with winches so snedding and limbing are pretty bad, leaving stubs everywhere but when the chipper is 18" who cares! i feel some of the felling is pretty basic and some techniques dont seem to be taught or arent used. Im only speaking from my experience but there are good and bad arbs in every country bare in mind that different equipment, laws and standards are used in each so you could be excellent in one place but rubbish in the other.

I think your just not drinking enough redbull Dan....

Thsts pretty similar to a rope rocket system or a rope walker system used in caving, if the bungee ran up through your bridge ring and down to your pantin it works pretty well a very good ascent system Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

No sorry mate meant onelab. Haha Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

It didnt break so i dont understand what the issue is you looked and assesed the tree and deemed it safe to climb, and you got it down fine. Most trees tend to bend and flex, its the rigid ones that snap that worries me. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

Depends on the situation chogging down i use the lever as it makes it easier when your full weight is on the system, also its more ergonomic in this situation. when out on a limb for small adjustments i tilt the device. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

The cinch is a very versatile tool, it is rated for single line use unlike the positioner, so if you use a 4m lanyard you can use the whole 4m, helps when your in those tricky spots, it releases underload is easy to take in slack. I sometimes take it off my strop to use it as a descender when working a pole. I have used it as w small secondary system and it works okay. It works well in the rain and performs better on sappy trees than a prussic Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

When im talking about ropes being easy to cut im referring to the ropes commonly used in Arb, of course 38mm rope is harder to cut than 8mm, but you wouldnt be using a 38mm climbing line or lanyard. The difference between 13mm down to 8mm is pretty insignificant, my reference wasnt to all rope it was to ropes used in Arb as you cannot tell someone that it is safer to use 13mm climbline than 11mm because this mean that someone could easily deem it fine to throw there saw round like a madman and feel because someone stated its hard to cut through as its 13 not 11. I have alao cut alot of rope in my time and havr seen how hard it is to cut spectra, dyneema and technora core with scissors, i have also hit my lanyards a couple of times including a 10mm Ap lanyard, when undrr tensions it was pretty easy. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

Over a year now mate. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

Lightweight, small easy to compact up, carry more lanyard due to the above reasons, use variety of diffrrent hardware with it. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

Yeah when its not under tension with your full weight on it, thicker dies not mean safer there is exactly the same amount of risk and ease in cutting of rope. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

I have been using a lockjack recently dan would suit you down to a T i reckon. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

It doesnt matter the thickness of rope a silky or a saw will cut through it just as easily being 8 mm or 13mm, you could use a cinch as an adjuster or use some ocean vectran, the cord doesnt have to be heat resistant as it is only a lanyard as long as its rated, Its odd to be schock loading a lanyard i cant really think of many occasions when this has happened. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

We do weight reductions and end weight thinning so you will learn a different skill set mate dont be to bummed about the crown reductions Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

I meant to cut it, i wanted that sports lanyard........ Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

I think this just reiterates a point which isn't (IMO) talked about enough of double tying in when blocking down, i here stories of people just spiking up with just a steelcore when dismantling a pine etc, you wouldnt prune without a lanyard so why would you do a removal without a main life line

I stopped using chainsaw boots for work as i struggled to find boots that my feet wouldn't wobble round in due to the fact that i have superwide feet, I use hiking or scrambling boots now i believe it has changed my climbing style i no longer try and jam or stomp my large boot into a fork as it has no flexibility, i find i tend to place my feet on limbs and find i no longer get painful shines when i am climbing due to my feet being able to move and bend rather than being rigid. The extra traction and grip offered by the boots i use is paramount for myself in order to get out on long smooth Eucalyptus limbs and be able to work safely as the grip allows me to work in a better position. Using non protective boots has made me safer as i no longer take silly risks and i am more aware of where the saw will go and the opportunity that may arise if something goes wrong while cutting. I beleieve chainsaw protective boots should be worn for ground work due to the risk of falling and rolling objects and often the use of saws on smaller limbs (especially when snedding for a small chipper) as small limbs are often stood on to stabilize

Drop bears are much worse than the spiders. Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2