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plank_pusher

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About plank_pusher

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    skateboarding, boxing, running
  • Occupation
    student/arborist

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  1. @Treerover So I've discussed this topic several times with several chainsaw trouser manufacturers i.e. Solidur, clogger and Husqvarna Kind of got the same response across the board which was that they never addressed the issue as they never believed it was that much of an issue as noone had made a big deal of it. Clogger has a tougher material on the lower part of the right leg on their zeros to which I asked why not on both legs and they said climbers only handle their saw on their right side....... To which I replied "......O.......K....." Whilst looking squintedly at them. Solidur have taken my feedback on board and are releasing a new pant in July - September I believe. I haven't seen these yet so I can't say they have addressed it. Husqvarna..... Well they're Husqvarna so I waste anymore time there Ultimately. Chainsaws are designed to cut trees and if you're any good at sharpening it doesn't matter how hard the material is unless it sheet steel the chain is going to cause damage. I would like to see maybe an easily replaceable patch potentially or a multi layer material. The best thing we can do is keep hounding companies about issues we have commonly and hope that they listen. Or start our own company
  2. I use rigging rings for everything that won't require lifting. They're cheaper, lighter and stronger. Only disadvantage is you can't set them midline but very rarely does that bother me. Otherwise I use the isc flame or whatever it's called. Great pulley and relatively light. Wouldn't waste money on the dmm ones, seen a few where the locking thread has been damaged very easily thus destroying an otherwise perfect pulley. In my mind. Rigging equipment is not really used by you, it's whoever is on the ground and even if you trust whoever you're working with they'll still shag your kit (especially if you're a contract climber). Spend what you have to, get nice kit but spend only what's necessary
  3. Twinline for sure. It's great for DdRT and SRT. I use mine all the time, absolutely love it. Set it from the ground and retrieve easily. Setup frictionless redirects. Super handy bit of kit
  4. Glad I went with the breatheflex pro pants then 😅
  5. I'm currently wearing cloggers zeros and I do like them but they lack stretch in the right places for me
  6. After a new set of pants. Work in Australia so if they have good ventilation that will be a big tick. Climbing 90% of the time flexible and comfy a must too Currently tossing up between the Arbpro gammas, sip canopy w-air and arbortec breatheflex pro. Please don't say pfanner, I've had multiple pairs of the ventilation and arborists and I'm really not impressed and do not have the intention of spending that sort of money of overpriced crap (quite happy to spend it on another brand if they're worth it)
  7. Do you have any pictures of the pants and your leg? Did you contact Solidur? If so what was their reply? Like stere said a higher class of pant may have worked better. I think we often forget that all our "professional grade" saws are either borderline class 2/3 or straight up class 3. So class 1 protection is a bit of a joke really. I've heard stories of the same happening with other brands. The class certification testing is a bit shitty really, doesn't really account for if you get hit with the push side of the bar at full revs and the revs are kept on. Glad to hear you're healed up though man
  8. As soon as there is any cracks or signs of stress (i.e. white stress marks) it damage to any of the webbing despite how minor, your helmet will not pass an inspection My way of looking at it is, if it doesn't pass an inspection then I don't even query if I can still use it. Inspections are there for a reason Bin it and get a new one, way easier than getting a new head
  9. Drenaline is good you're always running a pulley in the top (ie ropeguide or pulley saver) It's 32 strand so if you're running it through forks etc it wears really quickly. Also if you're using spikes with it be real care, it's no where near as sturdy as a 24 strand that can take a bit of a knock and your can pull stands back into place. Personally I use "naughty" donaghys cougar. But I've found cousin atrax to be super nice in the zz. Also yale limelite is pretty nice.
  10. I keep hearing people mentioning about using a pulley system to finish burying their splices. Just wondered if people have any pictures of this. Never needed one until now, having real issues with a horrible batch of non CE cougar
  11. I've been using for a few months on ddrt. Found it to be really nice, low stretch, great with ascenders, doesn't milk, splice fits through mechanical devices easily and is nice and soft in the hand. Only trade off is it seems to frey fairly easily
  12. Hi all I'm currently a contract Climber based in Adelaide, South Australia. I've been contacting for two years now in Adelaide, worked at companies previously in Adelaide for 5 years. I'm looking to do a little bit of traveling and networking before my wife and I have our first child. My qualifications are : - extended diploma in Arboriculture and Forestry (British) - CS tickets 30, 31, 38, 39, 40 and 41 - AQF Cert 4 in training and accessing - construction card I have all my own kit including - top handle saws - larger ground saws - full climbing kit - full rigging kit - 2014 ford ranger 3.2l 4x4 I am fully insured - public liability 10mil - professional indemnity 2mil I've kept it relatively short and sweet. If you want to contact me further my details are: Tom Stevens 1stcallarborists@gmail.com 0478982994 Cheers
  13. Does anyone have any tips on using a foot ascender with the talon spikes or know which attachable ascenders are compatible with them?

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