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nepia

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Everything posted by nepia

  1. Have you thought of trying Retrieval Software? Some low level versions are free (even on Windows) but it's not expensive if you need to buy it.
  2. nepia

    Cheap chains!

    Yes, recently. Very helpful. I can't advise on comparative prices as I don't buy enough for it to be a major issue but bought a bar and drive sprocket from them. Arrived v.fast along with an e-mail offering any help and advice required. Jon
  3. Clog free rake for the coarser stuff, then a bog standard wooden handled plastic garden rake. A blower on gravel (gently!)
  4. ..depends on the weight to velocity ratios of the African/European swallow..!
  5. Fantastic for the wildlife; corridors like that are vital for sustaining a variety of species. Such humble species as the thrush and blackbird are birds of the forest margin and need openings like that. That work will be of huge benefit but I guess you know that so it must bring on a warm glow - nearly as warm as the one from the Highland Park!
  6. Heck of a nice guy. Drove down to West Sussex last weekend to collect half a dozen pieces. He says he'll work them soon before they dry so I can't wait to see what he makes of it. The website doesn't contain that many examples or have I missed some?
  7. Like I guessed before I reckon the drying pale wood would shrink away from the knotwood and the plank would essentially fall apart. Ian, your MP specialist - not Frans is it?
  8. Boards? Crikey, never heard of that. Wouldn't the branch cores pop out of the pale wood when it dried? If you were anywhere near Stevie I'd take the thing off you if it was available but for you to drop it, ring it the right way, move it (in 200lb lumps!)... well, you're not going to are you - understandably. But if you think it may be worth something for planking you need to ask someone other than me. Jon
  9. Just find some local woodturners clubs online and e-mail them. That's what I did and have just sold six 28" rings to a turner from Cirencester and am taking seven 20" rings to Exeter with me when I pop down to there for Easter. All from cold calling so to speak. The smaller bits went first to local turners via a contact here so I think you'll do OK with the 10" stuff but 4" diameter is too small due to the knot size, assuming the wood's in good condition. Best of luck, Jon
  10. When it's dry it's great firewood - really surprised me. But the stuff I've got at the mo was standing dead for three years so as Stevie says yours will take some drying. Saw the rings to avoid the knots - they're like iron. If you can be bothered you can make a few quid selling the rings to woodturners, who absolutely love the stuff, but they'll want at least 4" of wood each side of the knots, more on the larger rings. Any spalting will be an added attraction.
  11. Only last week my mate and I were commenting on the higher age of the road gangs these days. Same thing I guess. Working for 8 hours at 30mph gets way more done than working for half an hour at 60. Plus they don't take the day off for a hangover.
  12. This has probably been already considered but could a completely new drive be built taking a different route? Would solve all problems.
  13. ...a pound to a penny he just happens to know someone who just happens to sell kiln dried logs. Small world...
  14. The ash is a corker and so much better for waxing. Did you use that piece because of the contorted grain or was that a bonus? Bowls wiv oles and bits of bark left on are very trendy!
  15. You could have been virtually anywhere of course but was that by Arlington Reservoir by chance?
  16. Re your flush cutting water shoots... There was discussion last year about that and I think it was Arob on here, who certainly seems to know what he's talking about, suggested pulling them off manually to better prevent regrowth. Would work only on first year growth of course but was wondering if you did it or had any experience of its effectiveness. Thanks, Jon
  17. Pure art; cracking shots. Well done.
  18. 6" topsoil on the slabs, sleepers/thick (2") boards on the soil.
  19. ...or a piece of polycarbonbate? Not the prettiest but you can work it yourself and see through it.
  20. Now I'm learning: small cuts preferable, big cuts bad. Thanks, Jon
  21. ...re the walnut again... Thanks. I find the 'not too much...foliage...' remark curious: you've removed loads there! Done to customer spec of course and I intend no criticism but I wouldn't dare take that much off a walnut in one hit. My colleague and I recently did gentle reductions on a pair and I called a halt into the height reduction on one because we'd taken more off the sides than expected. The customer understood my reasoning and was happy as it happened but I made the offer of going back next year to finish the original spec just to avoid the big single hit. Am I just being cissy over walnuts?
  22. Very nice work. My little knowledge of walnuts tells me that cutting should be kept to a minimum - they don't like it. But the example you've provided is a bit more than a peripheral trim! I'm sure there were good reasons but that's not my point: do you have any fears for the way the tree might react? I believe they are susceptible to dieback from the cuts, like magnolias...? Cheers, Jon
  23. If I came home to that syc I'd think you were something of a magician to be honest. Considering what you had to play with it looks very good indeed; just imagine it two years from now and I think 10/10 is a fair score.

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