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tree_beard

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Everything posted by tree_beard

  1. tree_beard
    Warm up and cool down... Don't fire up a cold saw and go straight into a long cut and after a long cut, leave your saw to idle for a while to cool down. Basic mechanical sympathy goes a long way
  2. tree_beard
    They do, and they don't do it as well as the entec treebuster that they replaced. Horrible machines, and a real step down from any of the drum style micro chippers popular today. Solidly built, but that's about the only thing going for them
  3. tree_beard
    I'd love one, thanks. But it's really a compression release brake. Engine braking is strictly speaking the closing of a throttle valve causing manifold vacuum. As for shiny modern pickups... A box of chip and towing 750kg shouldn't be taxing for any of them. Ive only driven older rangers but the manual boxes have always been horrible, so try the auto. Hopefully you have a good local ford dealer in mind, newer rangers are not renowned for their trouble free motoring ask PeteB about his experiences.
  4. tree_beard
    Strictly speaking, diesel engines by their nature are not capable of engine braking. What youre thinking of as engine braking is mostly friction in the transmission and back pressure in the exhaust system. Just to be a derailing pendant... But it was a facepalm moment for me years ago when Reuben( the engineering wizard) explained how I was misusing the term
  5. tree_beard
    I've had various saws over the years that have had the self tightening oil cap phenomenon. Think it's to do with the perfect storm of vibration, suction and heating that takes place so close to the crankcase. Husky 346s I've owned seem particularly prone to self tightening the oil cap to plastic stripping levels of torque within minutes of finger tightening...
  6. tree_beard
    I've bought several sets of klein spikes over the years for less than 50quid a pop. There was a time when every power line guy in the country had a pair in the back of the van. Thinking about it that was ten plus years ago, when there were less tree surgeons scouring ebay and more wooden power poles being climbed..
  7. tree_beard
    Efco/ oleo Mac manufactured a version of these saws for a decade or more. Efco 131 I believe, shouldn't be to difficult to get parts. You are correct in zenoah are marketed as redmax in some markets. They are now owned by husqvarna
  8. tree_beard
    Hilux
  9. tree_beard
    I've spent 15yrs working with twirly knobs that don't do much... Industry's rife with em
  10. tree_beard
    Because swede-o-matic is a much cooler name for a mechanism, despite the clunkiness of operation ?
  11. tree_beard
    I'd go with metasequoia. The swamp cypress I've seen( of that size/age) have slightly smoother, less fissured bark.
  12. tree_beard
    281 or 288xp or a 181se with a later chainbrake. Hopefully a 288xp though, great saw!
  13. tree_beard
    Carbide tipped chain was designed for cutting into burning buildings, and American buildings at that. Good for cutting cladding (with the odd nail), plasterboard, and roof felt... Shit for wood. It doesn't hold as sharp a cutting edge as regular chain, and is much more brittle. Hit anything really hard (stone or old gate hangings) and the teeth are likely to strip off
  14. tree_beard
    My fs400 (hammered for 15 years on mulching duties) has let me down for the first time recently... Mice have eaten the primer bulb twice in the last week!
  15. tree_beard
    The zinc coating is much less reactive with ali than non galv i'd still silicone all connecting surfaces tho. The process is as simple as dropping your steel components at a galvanising company and picking them up all shiny the next day. Or leaving them with a local fabricator that has their products galved and waiting until they send a batch off...
  16. tree_beard
    Put a smear of silicone sealant between the steel and ali where you fix them so help prevent galvanic corrosion and rattle. You could always make up your steel framework and then get it galvanised
  17. tree_beard
    Gonna have to get a nostril full and find out what sort of smoke... Burning wood, rubber, oil , they are all pretty distinctive and will strongly indicate the issue. Engine wise, white smoke is an under fueling issue, and dark smoke that stinks of diesel is an over fueling issue
  18. tree_beard
    3001 is actually the fitment for 070 090s, 3002 will physically fit but often needs modification for the oiler and tensioner holes to line up
  19. tree_beard
    Thanks, you are correct and my earlier post was full of shit. 3003 mount is what the op is after... Not 3005 as I stated, 3002 is large mount and 3001 is the nla 070/090 mount
  20. tree_beard
    'off the shelf' Stihl bars in .404 are all 3001 'large mount' and won't fit your saw. They are for bigger saws 070 076 084 880 etc You require a medium mount (3005) fits 024 241 right up to 064 066 661 in 3/8 0.063
  21. tree_beard
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.motoculture-jean.fr/upload/pdf/090_090G.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjzxY62ztToAhXvQEEAHd6GCScQFjATegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw1AZdKQU34xIiRVgAUwrf0p This shows the modern av handle system
  22. tree_beard
    Lost a number of big Macs during one big 30 second blow last Monday afternoon... the site is surrounded by sand dune and blasted by the Atlantic. Keen to replant anything that will take in the gaps left behind. Macrocarpa, Monterey pine, Shore pine, Maritime pine, Sea Buckthorn, Possibly arbutus... Any other suggestions welcome, and any suggestions on how to help them establish gratefully received.
  23. tree_beard
    One of the reasons they make for very poor firewood...
  24. tree_beard

    Husky 346

    tree_beard replied to jonnyroots's topic in Chainsaws

    Think you have a later 50cc saw with 44.3mm piston. But any of the 346/353/351 kits will fit
  25. tree_beard
    Beech establish well under a shady canopy. They can become crooked and bendy if really cramped for space. Generally any species that forms a dense shady canopy will establish under one

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