Justme
-
Posts
2,706 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Justme
-
Rubber track. With a metal one I would have split it by now. I tried using a large ratchet strap to pull the wheel back, no joy. I even tried driving it into a tree stump but that failed to work as well. In the end I put some steel bars in the track & rotated it till it went round the wheel & the stretch on the rubber pulled the wheel back enough to get it back on. I started on the bottom, putting each idler in it right place on the lower track & then levering & rotating the track & it popped on. Lost a full day trying to sort it out. Also had to go get a new end for the grease gun as the grease kept coming out the nozzle & not tightening up the track. Have done the other side too & all the other grease points for good luck.
-
Well sorted that problem. The thing that the bolt / nipple mounts in had twisted. Bit of leverage & it was in the centre of the hole so could be got with a socket. I have even managed after mucho struggling to get the wheel to retract about 2 " but it looks like it wont go much further but I still cant get the B track back on. Is it best to start at the top or the bottom?
-
Does anyone have a Schaeff HR16 or similar (but not a golf). I managed to chuck a track yesterday (rushing). Should be a simple job to take out the grease nipple / bolt & push the idler back in. But the hole that the nipple is i is so small & the bolt so close to the side of the box its in that you can get a spanner on it & the angle stops a socket getting on it. I am guessing that there is a "special" tool to do the job. Poss some thing like a supper slim crows foot spanner on a socket extension. Any ideas?
-
Ah I see its tax avoidance lol.
-
Not sure I get this. If I was self employed & then went LTD. I would still own the LTD company just the same. So no transfer of ownership & no payment. Any way how can the LTD company pay you a sit does not exist till the company is bought & who / how will it be paid? Surely you are buying & selling it to yourself.
-
You can tow two with a car. There are regs that describe exactly what is allowed, but basically if the weight of the second trailer is pressing on the first & the first is designed & adapted to carry that load & all the train weights are ok plus the right brakes its legal.
-
Looking at the operators stance his back wont last long either.
-
Because when an industry "bigs" itself up using word & acronyms that are not used outside of that industry, people outside of that industry dont want to admit they dont know what the F you are on about. When professionals are communicating with non pros they should use plain language.
-
Not been taking any wages then?
-
That does not mean they know what they are just that they dont want to ask.
-
But do domestic customers know what "arisings" are?
-
Or raise it up so that cats can get under it as well.
-
Cedar hardly shrinks as its drying unlike some woods.
-
What have you used as the finish?
-
Try cow / horse mats. They are thick rubber stuff. Or what about old tyres?
-
If you dont want calls at all hours get a second phone line just for work calls. Then you can choose when to answer it & when to let the answer phone to take it.
-
Even with the bags disabled is she of an age / size that riding in the front is legal? Ah just checked it is now legal for ALL kids to travel in the front as long as the air bag is disabled if you are using a rear facing seat or they are using the right seat / booster. How old is she? As long as its not a rear facing child seat (or a front facing "full" seat type that moves here forward) which is for very young children then she should be ok. A bit of googling suggest that you also need to inform the insurance company & check for side air bags as well.
-
I had the plate made with a 92mm hole & the shaft is 90mm. The shaft goes half way through the plate so it could be welded up both sides. I then lined it up by eye & put one tack on it. Then use a square to ensure it was level, added a few more tacks to make sure it would not move when fully welded. Then ran 3 x 1" welds followed by fully welding the inside in 2 passes & then running a weld on the outside followed by welds between each bolt hole (so the bolt head would sit flat). As this spins slowly (guestimate of 60rpm or less) & you get plenty of slack in the pins & joints even if it was out of centre by quite a bit it would not really matter, but not being at 90deg would cause the tip to swing a lot. Its a very solid bit of kit. It takes two to lift the motor & gearbox & I can just lift the shaft on its own.
-
It will do a 5 foot deep hole (poss a bit more if you put the motor in as well) by 12" aprox wide. Before I cut it down it had an extra 6" of thread & 2 foot ish of shaft.
-
The only new one I have seen was £900 plus £300 for the auger plus vat (and its a toy compared to this one) I have seen 2nd hand ones go for £6-900 on the bay but this has cost me £400 for the motor & auger £40 for the plate & pins & £? for the pipes (prob about £40 when I get the bill) oh & petrol for collecting it (about £10) plus the welding gas, wire & red for the genny to run the welder. So thats about £500 plus half a day messing about. Its first job is to drill support post holes for a cabin to sit on so pointed posts & hammering them in is out lol.
-
And the proof of the pudding
-
I have been wanting a powered fence post auger for a while. I did consider one of the cheap ebay petrol jobbies. In the end I bought a hydraulic motor & gearbox & an extra long auger that used to be for putting telegraph pole in. I had to cut the auger shorter by about 3 foot just to get it in the boot of the car. I then needed to get this made up The ring fits over the shaft of the auger so that the shaft ends half way through the 20mm thick plate. I could then weld up the inside & outside for extra strength. I also needed to remove some of the screw so that the bolts would fit. After that is was a simple job to bolt the two bits together, buy the hydraulic hoses & connectors & fit it all together.
-
I recon with good kindling & firewood you dont need chemical fire starters For the full on cold period we hardly let the stove go out, but when we do its re lit with 2-3 sheets of newspaper & a hand full of cedar bark (very dry & hand "pullled") & kindling. Never fails. We never ever use fire lighters, they stink for a start, cost money, make your hands smell & must also "cost" the environment. Plus we have the bark & kindling as a by product of our firewood so it needs using any way.
-
I thought shingles were cut & shakes were clefted. from Wiki There is a frame that fits on the bed of the mill. It has frames that the blocks sit on that are hinged at one end. The other end sits on a cam that is moved via a lever. So after each time the saw has travelled from one end to the other the lever is moved changing the angle the blocks are sitting at ready for the next cut.
-
You cant do this on a chainsaw mill. Been making shingles for about 5 hours today. Not to pleasant as it was windy & the timber dryish so I have eyes full of dust. Not very good quality video, must remember to sue the camera not my phone in future. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iwr6nigomI0]YouTube - Video-0011.mp4[/ame]
