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monkeybusiness

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Everything posted by monkeybusiness

  1. I'm guessing you want as big a chipper as you can get below 2.75 tonne?...
  2. Dunno if it's still available but Grazon 90 used to be the stuff for that.
  3. I've got a hycrack and an oxdale hydraulic splitter - they are both good but I reckon the hycrack is more productive (it is certainly capable of splitting things the oxdale can't). I've never trapped my fingers once - it is very predictable. You just have to understand that it wants to rotate the timber if possible, so you present the log in such a way that it can't. Pretty simple if the operator has any level of common sense IMO.
  4. Check your flow and return aren't reversed - this can make valve blocks perform in strange ways... If you have different sized fittings on the end of your hydraulic hoses and they only fit into certain plugs on the Mog this doesn't mean they are correct if the crane hasn't been set up to run off your Mog. As previously said - it is important to ensure the flow is going in the correct direction through your spool block.
  5. I've used a couple of 1623 diesels, and they are very good. I believe the chipping end of your machine will be the same, so it should work well. I would imagine it is a nice light machine, but may be a bit thirsty compared to a diesel.
  6. George Carrs in Bristol have a lot of kit (at least they used to when I lived down there many moons ago) - it might be worth a drive out. As said, try different stuff on. If you are going to be a climber I would stay away from the basic forestry helmets with chin straps and pick a proper climbing lid personally. And you'll need all round protection in your trousers if you intend using a chainsaw up a tree too (be prepared to be amazed at how hot they are!). Good luck and welcome to the forum.
  7. That is amazing value!
  8. IMO if I was really short staffed and needed new guys ASAP then I'd look at posts like this and possibly make contact, and take it from there. I'm not sure how many companies are out there that are that desperate for new blood at the moment however. I commend your enthusiasm and you've sold yourself well but in reality if you want to get your foot in the door you are much better off approaching local tree companies directly and hounding them until they give you a trial. At the same time approach anyone who is advertising for staff (of any level) and talk your way in - if you are the right guy the training costs can be accommodated by any decent business.
  9. That looks a great machine -superb!
  10. I think Decis is the product you need if it's still available.
  11. You're going to struggle to specify exactly what size chip box to fit. What's the base chassis cab? Unless it is ultra short I would expect any chip box built to the length of the body and the height of the cab to be overweight when filled to the brim, even with a 5.5 tonne gross weight. Lower than the cab looks odd and is harder to blow chip into. Axle loading becomes a headache when you have a single cab with a big heavy toolbox immediately behind the cab, or a double cab as both the aforementioned can lead to the front axle running close to its maximum weight limit. Big rear overhangs equally lead to rear axle overloading. If you've got a standard chassis truck I'd personally have the body built to square off and replicate the cab dimensions over the length of the bare chassis, but not hanging out miles behind the towbar.
  12. Great truck - that looks brilliant!
  13. You can carry 5.5tonne minus the vehicle's unladen weight (you'll have to get this from a weighbridge to get a definitive answer). Theoretically the combined maximum axle loads only need to add up to 5.5 tonne, but this would give no margin for error with loading. You can't legally run with any individual axle overloaded, and the combined axle loads can't total more than the gross vehicle weight. Bear in mind any nose weight imposed on the vehicle by a trailer - a badly loaded trailer can easily impose an additional few hundred kg onto a tow vehicle (almost entirely onto the possibly already overloaded rear axle).
  14. Any vids of the suspension working? It looks a brilliant set up!
  15. I've googled it and it looks like a top handle with a backpack battery - is that correct?
  16. Write to your tree officer expressing your concerns and put the ball in his court would be my advice.
  17. My assumption is that the hydraulics are set to float during normal use, allowing the suspension to do its work (but giving the lowest ride height). When in use for ride height purposes the hydraulics effectively lock out the suspension. Unless there is some very trick/expensive accumulator set up also at play...
  18. Looks amazing! Don't the hydraulic rams prevent the shocks and springs from working though? Or am I missing something very obvious?..
  19. £50/week?!? Really? Have you missed a nought off that?
  20. Also try Midland road springs. Go for the hardest springs they offer!
  21. Depends on the electricity company and the work required. NPTCs covering the required tree works (ignoring the electrical side of things) should suffice (as in what would be required by your insurance company anyway). If it's a complicated job re. the powerlines, or the line is difficult to switch out then the electrical company may insist on doing the works themselves (the cost of this is normally absorbed by the electricity company). My advice would be to always ask the question first - it costsnothing!
  22. I've got a double cab 56 plate ranger which is the same as the Mazda b2500 - it is great imo. I bought it cheap with a lot of miles on the clock and it is much much better than I expected.
  23. No probs, good luck with the job. Just bear in mind that it can sometimes take ages (a couple of months) for shutdowns to be arranged - make sure your client is aware of this!
  24. Ring the network operator and request a 3rd party shutdown - they'll want a method statement from you and proof of qualifications/insurance and will then arrange a date to turn the power off to allow you to carry out the works. I would strongly recommend you not doing the work live from your description - other than the very real risk of you getting killed, if you damage the electrical apparatus you will probably be in for a massive bill, and your insurance company are unlikely to cough up unless you have powerline clearance cover (I'm assuming you don't, hence the question).

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