monkeybusiness
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Everything posted by monkeybusiness
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The best front mounted chipper for a mog?
monkeybusiness replied to MattyF's topic in Large equipment
I bet he needed some big front weights to drive with that monster on the back! What are the little straw-looking things hanging down in the feed hopper? -
The 12x6 ifor will carry vehicles if necessary -I've carried my 110 on several occasions. With cage sides it will hold approx 8m3, which is possibly overloaded with chip but it doesn't look it and still tows very well. If filled to the brim with oak or beech rings it is definitely overloaded but still tows fine and easily manages to tip off. If you are buying an ifor I would recommend avoiding buying from them directly -they're customer service when it comes to any warranty issues is non existent (it's so bad I have just ordered a new Brian James trailer -more expensive but apparently fantastic trailers). Buy off a good dealer and let them handle any problems you may encounter.
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I've always found road tow chippers eat tyres - they are generally built down to a weight and use a light-duty axle that subsequently runs near its maximum load limit. This in turn chews up tyres as the suspension units are working near their design limits. Also a lot of people don't get their brakes regularly adjusted, so the over-run bangs on the tow hitch destroying the damper and leads to trailer wheels locking up occasionally. The smack that caused the ding in the wheel could have also knocked the suspension out of line at the same time possibly.
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Do you want to restore a 1928 too?...
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I always run a 16 on a 200t, and a lot of the lads who try mine subsequently do the same. It's well balanced and plenty powerful enough for most jobs imo. 201t might struggle a bit though.
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boom!
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01789 400044. The number should be on the chipper's ID plate. Let us know how you get on.
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I bought a towbar for a 3.5 tonne Iveco recently and had a choice of chassis depths - mine is a 3 litre double cab tipper so I (incorrectly) assumed it would have the deeper chassis rails - I think the heavier versions are different in this area (the axles look different too). If you just want to swap a body across I'm sure it will fit though, as the distance between the rails is likely to be the same.
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When you put your thumb on the button there is a click which (IIRC) is a solenoid pulling the throttle stop open. This solenoid has 3 wires - basically there is a 'Pull' circuit and a 'Hold' circuit. The pull circuit will remain pulling whilst you have your finger on the button, and the hold should continue to hold (be energised) once there is no oil pressure fault etc. If you have adjusted the throttle settings at all or moved the solenoid it is possible that the solenoid can't retract enough for the hold magnet to hold the solenoid open. This is also the case if the solenoid is faulty. It is highly likely that what I have written is wrong (and/or probably meaningless). If so, ring Mac or Jason at Greenmech tomorrow and they will fix it over the phone.
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Warn 9000i. Has it turned up yet?...
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The man is a legend, and so is his colleague Jason. They can diagnose just about anything over the phone and explain how to sort it in layman's terms. That sort of back-up is priceless IMO.
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Great pics, thanks for posting. Are the assembled machines stripped back down before paint?
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I'm amazed how common this failure appears to be on such a safety critical component - your story on its own is terrifying, but it takes on a whole new level of seriousness when others have experienced the same failure! I'm sure there is an undercurrent of poor maintenance (not in your case) and abuse leading to a number of these failures - this component is in an exposed position and is vulnerable to off road damage - but it seems unbelievable that such an important steering component can fail with any degree of regularity.
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Was it difficult to get the drop arm off the steering box?
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Some of the early ones also had much thinner fan blades.
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If you are paying members to talk you up where's my cash? I'll turn orange if you don't get your hand in your pocket now!!!
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I sold a 202 to Tothby on here that was (I think) a 1999ish machine. Serial number 82 or 84 I think, ex Fountains machine with big Land Rover wheels and a Lister engine. It did a lot of work for me and was still going strong when I sold it. MTCDaz on here had the sister machine, which he also sold and as far as I know is still working for a living.
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What's your budget? Steven Blair on here has (I assume it's still for sale) a double cab Iveco 4x4 he's looking to move on. It isn't cheap, but looks a good truck for your brief.
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A friend of mine has a tarp over the chip box (custom made, looks smart) which has a flap extending over the top of the chipper chute when in use. Almost no mess from an Entec (old school TW150) - neat cheap set up IMO.
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Ha ha - just seen your post Greg!
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1623 or 1928? They're both awesome by the way! A mate has a 1623 which is a 6'' machine with a 6''x9'' infeed (spanks all over a tw150, is more equivalent to a TW190 in my opinion), and the 1928 is a 7.5'' machine with a 7.5''x11'' mouth. As far as I'm aware all the tracked versions of both models are safetrak machines capable of working on embankments, and I don't know of another tracked chipper that will get close to where a 1928 can go. You can get a 1623 with very narrow tracks when closed up allowing for super-tight access, but this is an option from new and I think it would be expensive to retro fit at a later date. Once you have used a Safetrak machine you realise how limited other tracked chippers are in terms of where they can realistically get to, and it can transform how you approach a job. We've put 1000 hours on a second hand 1928 safetrak in 2 years and it has been excellent throughout. Budget wise - speak to Pete B on here. I'm sure he can arrange a demo for you too.
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All firemen should be able to do that I reckon! Awesome!
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Are you saying that the lads you are paying to work for you watched you reverse over your chipper without shouting STOP? If so, I think you know the answer to your own question...
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The 6" greenmechs are all 6x9" (I think), and I thought the little Jensens have a letterbox opening too (though I have no personal experience of them). It's only tw that still have old fashioned square openings I believe. The smallest measurement is the working capacity of the machine.
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I've just seen the website - they have a banner ad at the top of the page (I hadn't noticed it when I posted earlier). It looks a good machine, well thought out and that warranty is excellent! The trailed machine looks heavy for a 6 inch machine though - you are into trailer test/licence issues here. I'm sure the extra weight is accounted for with stronger build than a lot of the old school 6" machines but if you go over 750 kgs you may as well step up to a 7.5-8" machine IMO.
