leedeerman

My countersinks won't grip at all, they're clean and free of grease, all genuine parts, really pissing me off now!

On my Jensen 540 I'm having real trouble getting the blades to correct torque value without the counter sunk bolt spinning on the blade, I can let the Allen key push aganst the bearing as the nut is tighted, but then it's nearly impossible to get the key out, I don't want to hold the key, it puts my hand too close to the blade, and 310nm is allot of force! Anyone else have the same problem, is there a solution? What should be a simple job turns into an hour of swearing.

Test for charging volts at alternator, could be dodgy rectifier, or wiring fault at control box.

I would recommend you insist its sent back to Greenmech for inspection and repair, I had major failure on a Quadchip which was only properly rectified in the end when GM hq were involved.

I've got around 6 tons of black poplar in about 6m lengths, about 60-80cm in diameter, does it have any use or value at all? Or just good for biomass.

Spot on, always had a lot of time and a good word for Redwood, Dam shame they lost Jensen IMO.

I'm sure we've been here before Pete! mostly sound advice there, i would say though that 2-3 pumps once a week on most chipper bearings is way too much, from experience a Quadchips 4" RHP ec units have no room to take anywhere near that amount of greasing. My advice for most average size chippers, would be one stroke a week maximum(even that will end up over greasing) using a standard LM grease, if using a quality synthetic grease this could be increased to to once a month. On stump grinder cutter wheel bearings when new try to get a lot of grease in the bearing with two or three pumps while turning wheel. Then don't grease again I guarantee they will last longer than greasing regularly. If the seal is blown even just slightly it'll be game over for the bearing. Less is more when it comes to greasing chipper fly wheel bearings. And on some bearings that do not take any load one stroke every six months will be sufficient! I've got the bearings to prove it running year in year out!

I know these inside out I used to have 6 of them, what do you need to know?

Had the above lifted from a site in Essex today. Only six months old, its recognisable by the fact it has CTS branded into every plastic part many times. Let's hope it crops some where and who ever has it catches a cold. People that buy them are as bad as the ones that lift em.

Increasing the RPMs you will increase the amount of fines in the chip. The rotor will chip more than the sieve can cope with.

You wont go wrong a RG25, solid, classic design, reliable.

Jensen supplied a turned down socket for our 750 contractor, GM didn't and still don't as far as I'm aware for the Quadchip

Over the past few months I've thought what would make the best around chipper putting all manufactures together, I came up with this ideas, all just for fun, obviously it's never going to happen. Please add or remove as you see fit! As follows: Ifor Williams to make chassis using Knott brakes and coupling Schliesing to make main chipping unit and roller setup (235MX it's not too heavy) but with blade setup and open flywheel from Jensen. Timberwolf style rollers, removable blades. Kubota 4 pot, long stroke, no turbo. Overrun clutch Jensen folding infeed hopper, stop bar the curved one from A540 and touch buttons. Tunnissen discharge chute assembly, simple but effective. Greenmech finish and powdercoat process. Greenmech electrics and feed control/ button start. Direct drive hydraulic pump. 3x drive belts. I reakon it'll sell, may cost a lot

Ok thanks ill give that a go, if that solves it what is the actual problem?

I was daunted my chippers 20 years ago, my advice is get stuck in, by your mistakes you'll learn. Experience is what you need, even with a manual. Get some tools which can help with diagnosis, 12v power pack, a good multi meter are essential, a set of pressure gauges and power spike can really help too. Key is to know how the following systems work, starting,inc the ignition switch, charging, hydraulic, fuelling and the basics of stress control and proximity switches and soliniods. These will apply to machines and their functions are basically the same. Knowing how each part works will let you go through the process of elimination and solve the problem, most of the time! As a rule electric faults are hard to diagnose and easy to fix and mechanicals are the opposite easy to diagnose hard to fix. I worked all this out over the years and now repair for other. Good luck and don't be scared to take things apart.

I've got a ongoing problem with the above 2013 power head, when it's been used for a while and stopped, it won't restart, and seems to have excess fuel in the air filter maybe from flooding it. I've exchanged the carb from another head which is fine, replaced the large impulse hose, adjusted valve clearances, new plug and replaced the cork gasket and copper washer. But still it does the same, can any one point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.

Ive had 9 over the years and still own three, the six inch Lombardini is a capable and robust machine the 5" not so, but maybe not as fast a TW or Jenny. 8" tracked is a beast and will still out perform many modern 8" machines. Go for the 6", they called it the attack 6, or PZ140.

Thank you Pete, Fingers crossed I can do it in situ!

The bearing closest to the feed roller has an usual machined block not cast, to do with the spacing more than anything else I think, I have tried to out source but no joy, Vincent at Redwood still carry's Jensen parts I expect he'll have these on the shelf. He's very helpful.

Does any one know the procedure to remove a counter knife (anvil) from a C150-25. its a fairly old machine, any advice would be much appreciated.

RAL 2003 is very close. As with all paints the original tends to fade over time.

Early machines suffered from faulty motors which leaked from the motor shaft seal. GM sorted ours out FOC.

Short term it'll chip no doubt most do, long term I'm not so sure, serious flaws I'd say. And no brakes. I'd rather be able to stop quicker than have a turn table.

I spose your right, maybe the best thing is to send back to Schliesing Germany I'm sure they could rebuild it up from a grease nipple!

It would be nice to see it up and running as a PTO again, but the hours needed to get it square would be too much. Shame, top machine in its day.