benedmonds

I was being factitious.. But it does look rather arrogant/conceited, to have pics of you up next to redwoods while advocating restricting access to others.

It does NOT need to be approved, the council needs to be given 6 weeks notice. If they don't like it they can stick a TPO on it. Annoys me the number of TO's who think they can approve works in conservation areas without TPOing a tree...

I think I understand the issue, you want to stop people getting up close to the redwoods like this.... Possibly sounds a little hypocritical.? While I agree protection might be needed I think your cash would be better spent in education rather then tracking down individuals posting the locations. Possibly a few fences round the trees with some information boards. Anyone who is willing to trek into the forest to see these trees is going to be predisposed to protecting them and are not causing intentional damage. They just don't know the consequences of there actions..

We have had this problem lots with our chippers, if there is a cold spell they clog up. We spent loads on winter additives last year and it didn't seem to help, we ran the chippers on white when cold last year as the issue of lost days was very frustrating. Using a different supplier it happened again earlier in the year when we had a cold spell. We have now switched to a more expensive red diesel that is apparently the same as white with a dye in it. I didn't even know that it was different but that is what the fuel place tell us.

Job done... But DON't tell the TO..

We will probably get loads of calls for rubbish clearance... Which I hate..

We did 200 odd... rubbish video but anything for a bit of facebook content....

At this age I don't think it matters. In fact at that age I don't think they should be at school anyway. But when they hit secondary school it is an issue and term time holidays should be avoided.

One week vacation a year may not affect Jimmy, it might even be positive for Jimmy. But 30 different kids off over 30 different weeks in the year would make it VERY difficult to teach a class to pass exams. This may be true and I certainly disagree with the excessive testing at primary age, but is there a better way to examine pupils?

It's not only the kids who get taken out that suffer, it's the whole class. If the teacher has to give special attention to help little SteveyA out then they have less time to give to the other class. Probably would not matter if it was only one or two children but if it was the norm it would make teaching even more difficult. It also would not work in the British school system, that has a fixed curriculum/syllabus with very little leeway. You might be surprised how much a teacher has to cover if they want the kids to pass the exams.

Taking your kids out of school in term time causes more work for the teachers. While at primary age it may not be important when they get to secondary it is more and more so. Teachers have a limited time to teach the syllabus and if your child misses classes then they may miss something that is the foundation for later work. The teacher then has to spend more time with your child or give extra work to help them them catch up. This may not be much if it is only one child, but if your whole classwais doing it it would become a right PITA. While I agree a good student on a fantastic tour is almost certainly likely to benefit them, taking a struggling student to Disney Land probably isn't going to give them any advantages and may push them back. The consequence of that is the teacher spending even more time on them and less on the rest of the class. So the whole class suffers due to the selfish behaviour of one individual in the class. I believe heads do have discretion to wave the fines if you really have no option, but if they do it once they are going to have to be able to defend their decision when others ask the same. Therefore it is simpler to have a blanket ban.. Speaking as an ex secondary school teacher and father of 4 who takes holidays in the school holidays....

Free lance climbers or full time for the right person available..

This is how our arb waste is processed! https://www.facebook.com/canopytrees/

This one even has the tipper... £10,500 GBP- if you could impost for £1500 nice truck... 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser Workmate in NSW | eBay

Since I don't do any real work these days I was getting unfit.. Sign up for an event, preferably with someone else who is fitter. Then get on strava and you can compare your exercise with your friends. It can be quite motivating if you know active people.. I have signed up for the Vitruvian triathalon, 1900m swim - 85k bike - 21k run. Already half regretting it, but it does give focus....

Lot's of BS is BS..

The issue is that we generally use the term pollarding when lopping or topping mature trees. True pollarding definitely has its place and even lopping/topping can be pretty successful in certain circumstances. Willows for example.. From BS 3998. 7.10 Pollarding If pollarding is to be carried out, it should preferably start soon after the tree has become established and is between 25 mm to 50 mm in diameter at the selected height of pollarding (often 2 m to 3 m). The initial pollarding cut should be made at a height which reflects site usage but which, if possible, allows some of the pre-existing foliage to be retained, in order to maintain physiological function and thus reduce the probability of dieback or death. If the tree divides into a number of stems or branches below a height of 3 m, these should be individually cut so as to initiate a “candelabra” framework. If the stem has attained a diameter of more than 50 mm, but less than about 200 mm at 2 m to 3 m height, pollarding may still be initiated. The tree should be cut at or near the same height as a younger tree, but extra care should be taken to retain some existing branches. Larger trees should not normally be treated in this way (see Annex C for severe cutting for special purposes). Once initiated, a pollard should be maintained by cutting the new branches on a cyclical basis. The frequency of the cycle should be decided according to site management objectives, species, age, condition and/or any product that might be required. Selective cutting, whereby some of the pollard branches are retained within each cycle, should be chosen if this would help to prevent dieback and decay in the stem. Branches that grow after pollarding should normally be cut at their bases in order to encourage the formation of a knuckle after a number of cycles. If, however, the pollard cycle has been allowed to lapse over many years, the crown should instead be reduced (see 7.7) to the minimum necessary to fulfil current objectives. These could include the relief of any mechanical stress that would otherwise be likely to cause the stem to split apart. Even if the stress on an old pollard branch is severe, it should not be cut back to the knuckle, since the removal of all its attached foliage would probably lead to physiological dysfunction and decay. It should instead be shortened by cutting just above a suitable lateral branch [see Figure 2, R©], or failing that, by retaining a live stub from which new shoots could grow. If crown reduction would be insufficient to safeguard those branches that are most likely to fail, they may be reduced to stubs in one operation (a “pole thin”), while the remaining branches are shortened so as to retain enough of the leaf-bearing twig structure to sustain the tree. NOTE Retention of live stubs on lapsed pollards will often help to reduce the risk of serious dysfunction and hence decay and weakness developing below the knuckles. Cuts should be made below the knuckles only in exceptional circumstances, e.g. to prevent catastrophic failure.

I guess I can't call him an apprentice any more... I think this will work.. https://www.facebook.com/adam.barker.1466/videos/1076197562398949/

I think death is unlikely, but digit loss... probable...

You also have to board them out. A gas axe will cut through the steel then they need a different tool to get through ply.

One of our guys ended up in A&E with a hairline fracture to his jaw after a log bounced up and hit him in the face.. We use a PTO kenilworth saw & hydraulic splitter- The splitter is fixed to a post in the barn and we run both machines at the same time. Arb waste can be dropped at the back of the tractor, the long stuff is split to billets and then cut on the saw bench or if short enough the rings just split. It is a pretty efficient and safe way of dealing with the different size arisings we have. Previously the guys used to spend allot of time cutting rings with chainsaws on the log pile, this ended up with lots of blunt chains and potential dangers of using a saw to cut up small logs..

I am impressed with mine!

If you are willing to think a little bit different. Japanese import. Mazda Bongo.

I was just going to buy another tikka but read the reviews of the Nao online so decided to spend the extra... I use mine for running and the battery on full beam will only last about 2hrs but it is amazing. If I worked nights I would have a couple of spare power packs, if you don't use it on full power it can last ages and you can download ap app and programme it to how bright you want it. As torches go it is pretty cool...

I recently misplaced my petzl tikka and brought a very expensive petzl Nao It is ammazing: The integrated light sensor is oriented in the same direction as the eyes; it measures and analyzes reflected light in order to instantly and automatically adjust the headlamp's beam pattern (wide and/or focused) and light output to the user's needs. The shape of the beam and the power of the headlamp instantly adapt to the need (lighting for close, medium or long-range vision), so the user always has the right amount of light. Lithium Ion battery recharges easily with the integrated USB connection.