Al Smith

Most people on this side of the pond gave up on those little pipes about 5 years ago . Besides that one coming out the left side will burn the hide right off your hand . Looks cool yes but doesn't work as well as just larger ports on the right side,minus the pipe .

A 200T responds to modifications very well . The easiest thing to do is pull the baffle plates .In addition to that which few do is to remove the tabs or directional tabs from the interior of the muffler halves . A 200 does not really have what's called a true pressure can but is more a baffled muffler type . By removing the baffle plates in addtion to making the internal less restrictive you alse create another hole . My 200 has had a lot more done to it than just a muffler job but that's another story .

Well first of all you have to look at a modern saw muffler .It is essentually a pressure regulating device with baffles and a certain sized exhaust relief hole in it or several . The baffles control the sound by attenuating the pulses back upon themselves just like an auto muffler . The shell of the muffler contains a certain sized volume . Depending on the size of the hole or holes at a specfic time at exhaust the pressure within this can equals the out going pressure of the cylinder .At that point any more transfer of fuel/air mixture ceases to flow.The cylinder is as full as it's ever going to get because of lack of differential pressure . Now if you remove the baffles,first you have nothing to hinder the flow of the exhaust except the pressure can .By enlaging the hole or holes you allow the transfer cycle to flow longer and with increased velocity .Thusly more fuel is admitted to the cylinder plus the fact it's of a more pure nature because more of the burn exhaust is expelled . More power ---clear as mud .

There is a trick to every thing . When you make your shroud bend long tabs on it so you have more surface are to work with .Makes it much easier on thin sheetmetal and as thus a stronger joint . I just braze them myself .

Ha Ha Ha .I have to tell a little story on Wojo . Old Scott shows up at one of our get togethers and they let him run a piped hotsaw,3120 Huskey or 084 Stihl,I forget which . Old Scott throttled that thing up and made the cut then jumped back like he had seen a ghost . A single cut on a 10 by 10 only takes about a second or so and he had never had that much power in his hot little hands in his life . We of course teased him about a little ,all in good fun .

Well revamping a muffler is an easy thing ,anybody with a little mechanical ability can do it . You have to do though what works best for you . Now let me give you a word of caution on an 880 .Do not forget to enriched the carb setting . That thing will move a lot more air and fuel through it with an improved muffler and if you don't increase the fuel it will seize the piston in time . Am 880 is an expensive powerfull saw .It would be a shame to ruin it . That said though the saw will run a lot better with improved flow . I'm supposed to be getting an 084 from the Canadian west coast shipped to me sometime . That thing will get turned into either a gas muffler race saw or a tuned pipe saw . At the moment though I'm preoccupied building a bandsaw mill so the saw modifications are somewhat on hold for the next few months .

I won't get to that until after the first of the year I don't imagine . My plate is kind of full at the minute building a bandsaw mill .

I've got several modified saws I've done myself in varied degrees of enhancement . I think the last one I did was a Stihl 200T . I haven't elaberated too much on this site about how to do same though . The 200 has a domed piston,shaved cylinder and a gutted muffler and it does extremely well for a little tiny thing . In timed cuts on 8 by 8 cants it makes two in a little over 11 seconds whereas the average stocker is 15-16 seconds . Fact is at one little gathering myself and another gent were out cutting 40 plus cc saws with these little gems . They will scoot if you know how to do it .

Unless it's an optical illusion that recoil is wound backwards .

You can't tell whom owns what now of days with mergers and buy outs world wide .I may be mistaken but I believe a group caled Blount owns both Oregon and Winsor .For that matter what product is available in The British Isles may not be the same stuff as the US and Canada .Could be better or worse .

That big JLG which by the way stands for John L Groves,maker of Grove cranes ,more than likely weighs around 8 tons or more .

I'll have to take your work for it on the Stihl files as I don't own any myself . I order my files two dozen at a time from a US west coast logging supply company . They do carry a brand called arbor pro I believe which is less agressive and stands up to the hardness of Stihl branded chain which is about the hardest material I've ever filed regarding chainsaw chains .

Wow I might need a translater on that one . Now let me get this straight ,are you saying Stihl files won't file an Oregon chain or Oregon files don't do good on a Stihl chain ? On the later I agree .

Pferd or Oberg .I think both are made in Sweden . Oregon is okay but not the best .Way too soft if you are filing Stihl branded chain .

They don't vibrate any more than a brand new Stihl . The suspension system basically the same as an 046,044 , 038,066 ,084 .

The 048 was plagued with problems or so they say .Evidently the early ones were held together with only 4 case bolts and they were slotted head screws .The later ones used torx head and that pretty much fixed the problem which was case leaks . I have two of them and they have plenty of power but lack a bit in speed as compaired to say an 046 .Parts however are rare especially the SEM ignition moduals .They used both a Bosc system as well as the SEM type .They are not interchangable either . The air filters are all but nonexistant also . If I recall correctly I have less than $100 US funds in either of them if that means anything .

Just for demonstration I took some pictures of plugs from a properly tuned saw and one from a saw too rich on fuel . I tried to post in another portion of the forum but for reasons unknown to me it seems posts are cut off in that area . The saws are first an 038 mag that is highly ported .The saw does carbon the muffler but the piston is clean as a whistle .The plug is black from rich fuel . The second series is an 038 Av which also is ported but not to the degree of the former mag .It also shows some carbon on the muffler but the plug is the correct light brow color .The piston on that saw is also clean as a pin .

Sure I'll grant you they will carbon but not that badly .If you want I can pull some mufflers and show some over 30 years old that aren't as bad as those pictures of the little saw in question . In all seriousness I have no idea of the gasoline[petrol ] you folks are using which I suppose could have something to do with it . This is a pic of a Huskie 281 I just worked on .This was taken before I worked on the piston which was starting to burn . I'll put some more pics on after I get home from work today .

Well you can't expect too much from a saw that has the size engine of a model airplane for one thing . Even less if it were plugged as tight as bulls butt at fly time like that one was . All saws do not do that,none of mine do as a matter of fact and I run 32 to 1 oil mix . To get that much carbon build up the saw would have had to have been set exceptionly rich .

On that subject of veggie oil I suppose it's just a personal choice for whatever reason ,green thing whatever . I have no intention in engaging in diatribe on the subject but will interject a thought on the matter . I know of very few people who have had luck with veggie oil as a bar and chain lubricant .It clogs the oil pumps ,blows off the bar like it were water and just doesn't supply the lubrication qualities of petrolium based oils .

Aha,the cats outta the bag,black spark plug . This is an indication the carb is set way too rich and most likely it would blow black smoke as if it were burning soft coal . Sevaral things may be the root cause .Too rich of carb setting would be the likely culprit .However for reasons unknown perhaps the carb fuel shut off lever is set too high or the metering diaphragm has grown stiff .That would surprise me though because that saw has not been out on the market long enough for that to happen as a rule . I'm not that familiar with a 361 but if it has a compensating carb where by the atmospheric portion of the metering chamber goes into the air filter,that in fact could be plugged .As I say though I'm not sure what was used on that saw . Whatever the cause it's a sure fire bet it's too much fuel .As far as oil mixture you can run the old antiques on 16 to 1 mixture and they don't blacken the plug .They do however blow plenty of blue smoke which might be a good thing to get rid of mosquites if you have any of those pesky little things on that side of the big pond .

A tank of oil for a tank of fuel was about what the older saw used and they oiled well before the saw manufacturers started making wimpy oiling systems . If you are running motor oil for lube ,therein lies the problem .Use some oil that has a good tackifing base ,regular chainsaw bar oil . If the oil does not contain a tacking agent it just throws the lubrication right off the chain and bar .

Well first of all I have no idea what voltage you folks use on that side of the Atlantic .I've worked on some stuff that was 208/365 Wye from Italy . In the US the supply to most residences is 120/240 single phase .Most modern homes have a 200 amp service ,a few older ones may be 100 amp . To size a rotary you need at least to be the size of the largest motor you will be running .In other words a 10 HP converter will start a 10 HP motor but it will run up to 3 times that amount as long as none are larger than 10 HP . Rule of thumb on 3 phase motors is 2.5 amps per HP running fully loaded on 240 volts . Now here is the kicker .The rotary because it does not produce any usable mechanical work will only draw about 10 or so amps .All it does is generate the third phase through induction of the other windings of the motor . It's really simple if you have a good knowledge of electricity which by the way works the same in the US as it does in China ,England ,Japan or Antartica for that matter . Now I don't know what if any restrictions are imposed on you folks are far as using one of these things or not .We over here can pretty much do as we please .It gets confusing after hearing all the stipulations that you all might be under that we over here are not .They could be wives tales for that matter and me be ignorant of same I wouldn't know the difference . Pictures are of the last one I built which is now running a 10 HP punch press at 150 miles north of me in Michagan

Oh I've got firewood allright,literaly tons of it . It stacks just fine in 16" pieces . That stove has no ash pan as it was design to burn only wood .With the forced air blower it does nicely .

If do a "Google" on rotary phase converters ,they are not that hard to make .I suppose I've made around 20 or 30 of them .One was a 30 HP unit . They run at around 92 percent efficiency .Most people erronious think you are paying for running two motors to get the power out of one but that is not the case at all . I have to be off to work now but I'll post a pic after I get home .Remember there is 6 Hrs diff in time .