Al Smith

Just let it smoke .It won't hurt anything except it's unpleasant to run blowing smoke like it's burning pine knots . Long time ago probabley before most of you were born the old saws ran on 30WT motor oil mixed at 16 to 1 .They smoked like an old steam engine until they warmed up then it subsided quite a bit . When I rebuild a saw engine I put so much oil on the parts that on first start up if it doesn't blow smoke the first 5 minutes of running I worry I didn't use enough oil .

That model evidently is or was not available in North America because I've never even heard about it and I collect McCullochs .Generally speaking most Macs used an impulse driven oiling system which is nearly trouble free with exception of the mini Macs. The only gear driven systems I'm aware of at all were on the Titan series which was made in Italy late 80s-early 90's . Never he less an old cure for a slow oiler is often pumping diesel fuel or kerosine through the system .Works most of the time .

About the only inexpensive way to do a change over is in the unlikely event you could find a complete MS 200T or 020T with a bad engine or something for a reasonable price .If you bought the required parts though a dealer to do the conversion you'd likely have the price of a complete new saw in it .

Good question ,don't know myself .I've got a twin axle equipment trailer that does the same thing if empty .Loaded it does'nt do anything .The only help I've found is either drive above or below what speed it gets to acting like a Mexican jumping bean .It's usually between 45 and 50 miles per hour it gets the shakes .

Kerosine or diesel fuel will do the same thing .

That's a good question ,I don't know . Oh for those who don't know "rocking a chain " is Yank talk for hitting the dirt with the chain .I'm about certain y'all have a different term,you usually do .

Numpy Can't say as I've ever heard that one and I've been half around the world twice . The gas won't hurt it .Even if the gas tank got oiled it won't hurt it . If you run a saw long enough as sure as God made little green apples there are three things you will eventually do .Oil the gas tank, rock a chain and put a chain on backwards .

Well that could be a problem on some island in the Med . If this will help here's what you got .Clutch side seal ,part number 9640-003-1890 .Flywheel side 9640 003 1190 . It will either have a Walbro model WT carb or a Tillotson model HU 7 .It will be on the carb some place . Now I don't know if this would work or not .You can find that stuff on E-Bay US .If the seller will ship international ,US airmail is the cheapest in the world bar none .Fact I shipped a McCulloch carb from about east central US (Ohio )to Australia for 4 dollars US what ever that figures out in whatever currency ,where ever .That's like half way around the world .I have no idea if you'd get stuck with some type of import taxes or not . That's just an option .--Good luck ---

The 020 av was the fore runner of the 020T but of different design . Considering it's age it could have several issues .One because of it's age it would stand to reason the carb needs rebuilt because it most likely has some stiff innards . Secondly from what you said by runnning partially choked you could have a bad crankcase seal sucking air .Seals on this model are relatively easy to change . The saw itself is a little bit of a nuisance to work on because everything is contained within a "shell " that must be removed first to get to anything .Fact the first one I ever repaired it took me 45 minutes just to figure out how to get inside it .

No doubt but you should see one with a race chain a nine pin sprocket and a 16" bar . Okay fun but not practical .A saw that size is designed for a 42" and longer . Ha one of the reasons a large saw of that size will last so long is simpley because of the fact they don't get used that much .The novelty wears off pretty quickly if you lug one around all day if it's not neccessary to use one that large .Traveled that road a time or two .

I suppose it depends on the situation .As a rule most 460's in this area carry a 24" or what Stihl calls a 25" .It's a good combination of balance weight wise and power wise . Usually and speaking in this area they don't normally get to a 36" unless the approachs around 100 cc's . I have on occasion however ran a 32" on both a souped up 038 Mag and an older 048 which is the same displacement as a 460 .Skip tooth chain ,no problem .

Now gentlemen remember we are talking globaly here .What might be available in the British Isles or Europe as a whole might not be in other parts . Even larger saws in the Stihl line such as the 070 ,076,090 might be easily found on the west coast of Canada or the US but not so much towards the center of either country because they were big timber cutters .Cost wise they were not practical on the smaller trees in the interior . Every larger saw of 100 cc or larger I have has came from the west coast excepting one ,an 084 Stihl . To the subject and from my perspective get the largest saw you can afford .Milling puts a heavy load on a saw ,long cuts under heavy load .I've tried with a 76 cc Stihl ,048 which is the same displacement as a 046/460 and while it works it's extremely slow . Under the same scenario I also used a Mac 125 and while not even on the same page as the Stihl and cut three times faster even that was slow as a snail in comparrison to a bandsaw mill .However chainsaw milling is an option to salvage usable lumber from what would normally end up as firewood . Using that 123 cc saw painted yellow I could make about a foot a minute in 18" thick red oak ripping . I made a few 4 by 12 loading planks and that was about it for my saw milling experiance .

A little word on this business .First of all I've only in my life time ever seen one 075 .I've seen several 076's though so I assume more of that model were made . Anytime you get into a saw that old no matter who made it parts will be hard to find .Trust me as I've restored many old saws .It isn't a fact of if repair parts can be found it's the time involved and then the price involved as well . Restoration of older saws is not for the impatient .Now I personally enjoy the challange myself but some find it a nuisance and grow weary of it quickly .

The two I had made mention of being 35 years of age were my original two I used for about 9 years when I sold firewood .They get ran occasionaly but I have faster better saws I use more often . The 50 year old antiques are collectors saws .A few are in fact nearly as fast as a modern saw but they are heavy .

I don't know how long it takes to wear one out .I have two I've had about 35 years and some that are 50 years old that still work just fine .

Well you probabley would have luck with a greased bearing if it were sealed which it's not .Or it it were serviced frequently but most are not . While most of the clutch side of a Stihl saw has all kinds of shrouding you must remove in order to say service the oil pump or replace a seal it's just amazing the amount of fine dust that manages to migrate into to every nook and cranny . Now on that idealaly the owners of the saws should periodically clean the things out which they don't do on this side of the big pond .Maybe so in GB ,don't really know myself . Back to this screaming saw .It might be a thing where it's packed full on dust ,stranger things have happened .I've even seen them ran with the brakes set and it warps the shrouding ,noisey then . The most odd I ever saw was one ran without a bearing or E clip. The clutch guard kept the rim from comming out but it cooked all the shrouding .How it kept from at least not ruining the crankshaft bearing I'll never know but it did break two out of three clutch shoes .

What will happen if you grease a clutch bearing is given enough time the needle bearing will pick up fine dust that will eventually clog the bearing within it's cage .I know it's sounds like a good idea but has proven not to be . If you do have a caked up bearing clean it out with solvent .If the cage is damaged it's best to just replace it .They aren't very costly. A faulty bearing can cause the clutch drum to run eccentric and in extreme cases break a crankshaft ,rare but it can happen . If not it can cause enough vibration that in time it will ruin the crankshaft main bearing which will take out the seal which will cook the cylinder and cost a whole lot more than the original 6-8 dollars US the drum needle bearing would have cost .

FWIW parts or as most of say "bits " are not that hard to find for any of the 038 series .Exception would be original bore cylinders and pistons for the Av's .Some parts will interchange between the 028-038-042 and 048 becuase they are all the same design . The most popular of that series was of course the 038 Magnum which is still produced as I believe either a 380 or 381 but not available in North America for sale because of environmental issues . Never the less any of the 038 series is a rock solid well built saw and proclaimed by many including myself as one of Stihls best ever produced .I personnaly own three ,one Av and two mags .

That thing is called a bow bar .They were used for pulp wood cutting . The thing was used with a plunge cut .The shape of the bar tends to make them less apt to get pinched falling small trees .They are seldom used any more .

Generally speaking unless the carb boot is torn on either an 020T or Ms 200T they don't leak .You have to get that plastic clamp thing down over the connection on the forward end all the way engaged over the boot though and the boot fully down on the inlet port thing .A little shot of WD-40 lubes it up enough it just slides on .If you don't lube it with something you stand a good chance of breaking it .

The manuals are on line some place .I don't have a clue where though .People just send me CD's already down loaded . Some of us kind of have a "network " It's the worlds chainsaw "underground " often talked about but seldom seen .

Timely thread .Fact is as I type I have two threads going on two different sites of what the problem is as well as one carb in shipment to Stihl in Virginia Beach for them to examine . Here's the deal,the older carbs develop leaks around the triangular shaped welch plugs in the metering chamber .The newer ones which are cast solid with no plugs develop cracks in them for some reason . I repaired one of each style within the last two days using Loc-tite 271 .They seem to be working so far . Both my 200 Ts ,one stock ,one souped up seem to operate just fine . Now I'm not saying this is the magic cure all but it could serve to keep a saw runnng until a better carb is located for a proper repair .

Most of the specialy stuff like Stihl flywheel pullers I just make myself . M22 1.5 metric hydraulic bango fitting and M11 1.5 Ford head bolt work just dandy ,cheap too . If I have a use for it,I make it .I still use the old freeze and heat method to split cases because I don't do that many but if I did there would be a case splitter made for that too .

Old story. Long long time ago I ran a Poulan S25 which was in it's day the best tree trimmers saw of it's time.This was before 3/8" low profile chain was ever invented .The saw ran 1/4" full compliment . Oregon at that time made full chisel 1/4" chain available in both full complimnt and skip configuation .It cut amazingly fast .A certain person with influence by the name of Ralph Nader had it removed from the market because of the size of the saw as it was also sold to homeowners as well as professionals .He didn't feel the chain was safe . Typical of the government trying to play nanny with the people .

As a general rule if it is a seal most times it's on the clutch side .As such it's not that difficult to replace . A good indication of a bad seal will be the saw slowly looses power as it heats up requiring carb adjustment to maintain power. After it cools down then the thing will run rich .