Al Smith
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Everything posted by Al Smith
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This is a tough one allright .With a diaphragm carb it wouldn't or shouldn't make any diff even if the saw were upside down how it cuts . As a long shot it could be quite possible if for some unknown reason the fuel line might have a crack or tiny little tear in it that opens up when the saw is tipped bar side down .It's definately running out of fuel by the sound of the vid clip . Oh another thing I don't remember if the Bing carb has a plastic fitting for the fuel line or not but I'll check in a little while .If so although a remote stab in the dark there in might lie the problem . Grasping at straws .Run that thing bar side down and let it stall in the cut but leave the saw in the cut .Open the fuel cap and see if the filter is sticking out of the gas or as you Brits say the petrol .That would screw it up in a heart beat .
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My mistake on the previous post .I was thinking one thing and doing another I mistakenly transfered my thoughts to the 041 instead of the 045 . Disregard .
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It's probabley an 045 which by the way had two different sized pistons ,44 mm and 48mm depending .They aren't praticularly fast although with the horizontal design they have a lot of lugging power . Odd design ,the intake and exhaust are on the same side of the cylinder plus it uses an internal coil inside the flywheel . I've seen a few and operated a few but never turned a wrench on one .They're more a collecters item I think .
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Oh no doubt they have some neat gadgetry ,seal pullers ,case splitters etc . I'd probabley get into some if I repaired small engines for a living which I don't .If a gent was handy in the machine shop you could make a lot of them which I have done .Sometimes a good deal like half price is more simple than a couple of hours on a lathe and universal milling machine though .
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Considering every thing they do okay .They aren't as fast as an 020/200T ,weigh more and are a nuisance to work on .
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I might add that wrap handles are not the norm in these parts .What few exceptions are 3/4" wrap handles on few 066's used by the fellers but they are rare .Each and every one of my older PNW saws has a full wrap including an old 048 Stihl . That one BTW is going to get changed as soon as I find the time with a standard non wrap from the bones of an 042 I recently acquired .
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On that first I know very little about pine because for all intents they are transplants in this area .However in my pile of stuff is some pine which the trimmers dropped off .I jest not but it as hard as most oak .What it is I have no idea and I doubt seriously if it's southern yellow pine because in case I'm mistaken it doesn't grow this far north . The conditions of growing plus the mineral content of the soils has a lot to do with hardness .As I've said several times a white oak grown in this region will take 50 percent longer for the same size as one grown in Georgia or South Carolina but will be much denser having 14 to 18 growth rings per inch often . By the same token a red oak grown in portions of Pennsyvania which is the same latiude will have the same growth rings but be more dense because of the soils .
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There's another method if you don't own a seal extracter .Drive a small drywall screw through the metal portion of the seal and withdraw it that way . Now don't go drilling a hole to start the screw because just one tiny sliver of metal chip caught in the race of a bearing could hang it up ,not good .Use a sharp narrow prick punch or an ice pick if need be to make a starter hole .Only engage the screw a few threads and it should come out .
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Then again that goes back to the conditions the saws are used in .Typically an 066/Ms 660 is ran in this area with full compliment chain with a 36" bar .With the conventional oiler it does okay .That west coast fir might present other problems the hard woods do not . What I've found is if running over length bars if you just let the saw feed in as it wants and don't crowd it too much it will clear the chips .If you do crowd it first thing you know you'll jamb the bar full of chips and hang the saw .So you really hinder yourself trying to be Paul Bunyan with the things because you'll just take longer to get the job done . It will dawn on most after they clean out the bar 4-5 times in the same cut .Some are slow learners though .
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Well yeah it just depends on the situation .I was sent a 24" from the coast that came off an old Mac PM 610 used in Washington state .That old saw has enough power to pull it in these hardwoods it just wouldn't like it . Fact I've ran a souped up 044 Stihl with a 36" buried in a big log and it hung right in there but you wouldn't really want to make a habit of it .If you go too long though the saw has a problem properly oiling the bar which must be considered . A longer bar is an option and certainly cheaper than buying a larger saw for most who are only rarely needing a larger saw .In my case I just trot out to the shed if I need a big saw but it's a luxury not afforded to most .
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I've got three of them in the shed .All were given to me by the trimmers after the oilers went bad . Now the repair parts are under 15 dollars US funds which consists of a pump shaft and the worm drive .The fly in the ointment is you have to field strip the saw to replace the pump shaft . If you have the abilty to do the repairs yourself the saw does okay although not as powerfull as a Stihl 020/200T .However if you must send it to a shop unless the saw were free you'd have labor charges that would exceed the value of the saw .
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Not neccessarily .Depends on when it was made .Not all 200T's had the accelerator pump type carbs all the trouble is about . A tip for what it's worth .Don't fire up a saw for the first time after a clutch removal without a chain on it else you just might get to see how fast a clutch can spin off .Voice of experiance talking here .
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Just by the fact it's square ground it will run circles around round filed . I've got few other than race chains but I seldom use them .I can file a round chisel 20" loop in five munites .It takes me 20 to 30 minutes if it's square ground.You folks on the coast usually have grinders which is the way to fly if you use square IMO .
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Well then you get into laws ,edicts ,rules .On this side of the pond or rather specically in the USA we can pretty much do as we please to the saws and run any type chain we want to . The skip chain is more prevalent on long bars in soft wood .Reason being simpley because deep cuts in soft wood just don't chip out as well,clogs the cut .It's not because the saws don't have enough power to pull full compliment chain because they certainly do ,it's the chips . Now in the central US in the hard woods I've ran both skip and full and quite frankly see very little difference on 36" bars .I do however have a modified 038 Stihl Mag I run a 32" and skip .It's not because I don't have larger saws merely because the saw has plenty of power plus it's lighter and easier to handle than 100 cc .
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I didn't know Stihl had different bar size specs for North America and the British Isles . Yes to the comment the west coasters use longer bars .There's a reason for that .Often times on the slopes they need the extra length to get to the far side of the tree the ground is so steep . Generally for the rest of us a 60 cc runs a 20 inch ,80 cc a 24 ,100 a 36" and above that whatever length they deem fitting . I doubt the hardwoods on this side of the pond are softer but then I doubt it's much harder either except perhaps those grown more northerly because they grow slower ,Recently I fell a dead white oak ,100 feet tall and 3 feet in diameter which contained 225 growth rings .Had that tree been grown in the southern states it would have taken slightly over 100 -125 years for it to get that large .
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FWIW an old blood pressure cuff makes a nice pressure tester . Usually relatively inexpensive from flea bay .
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This subject of "on the bench " brings up the fact that June 2 we are having a GTG in central Ohio .With around 50 saws ranging from relatively hot runners to absolute boat anchors it gives me a reason to get them all running .Some not all . That many saws and only using a half a dozen on a regular bassis it's nearly impossible to keep them all in good tune .So far everything I've worked on is running fine with the exception of an old Lombard that came over on the Mayflower .Old antique with a float carb circa 1956 ,imagine that .
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I just looked at every piece of Stihl literature I own including the service manual for the BR 400 .As has been pointed out they give no max RPMs . I had heard it's around 8,000 rpm but I have no documentation to prove that as fact or fiction .FWIW though I own one and it's a nice unit .
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A little comment on engines for the Rangers .The ones in North America had either an over head cam 2.3 liter 4 cylinder or a 3 liter V6 push rod engine .Towards the end of production of the overhead cam engine it was increased to 2.5 liter . Both the 2.3 literand the 3 liter went out of production about 5 years ago .What they use now I have no idea .There was also an option of I think a 4 liter v6 made in either Germany or Wales . The 4 cylinder plus the 3 liter V6 were amost flawless with regards to relibability .It was the 4 liter they had the most problems with .Now what engine might have been available in GB I have no idea .
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I've had two myself .An '86 that I put over 100 thousand on until the tranny went out and the price to repair exceeded the value of the truck . It was an automatic with an A4LD tranny which was just a C3 with a Frence built over drive .It wasn't a very good design . The one I have now is a '97 with a 5 speed and a 2.3 liter 8 plug engine .Low milage for the age with a tad over 80,000 .It does fine gets 26-27 miles per gallon .What that figures out in KM per liter I have no idea as I'm metrically challanged .
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It's a simple matter of either changing the rim sprocket or spur drum that be the case to make it run 3/8" .Drives are cheaper than bars and 3/8 is cheaper than .404 .
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What usually causes the carb boot to tear is a faulty left hand side rear av mount going bad . However with the description you could have a faulty clutch side crankcase seal . To the original question it's not a big deal to change the carb boot .Either way by removing all the av mounts or just the rear two and swinging the engine .You remove the metal ring and fold the boot and shove it through .To install use a piece of string to pull the folded boot back through the hole .Easy as falling off a log .
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While it's not widely published the fix on the Zama carbs is not a big closely guarded secret .In addition many times the carb has been blamed for problems they really didn't cause .Such as worn crankshaft bearings which allowed side movements to the crankshafts resulting in air leaks after the saw had been running a few minutes . In just the US and Canada the amount of good crankcases on flea bay is stagering and they are cheap .This only points out that those 020 and 200T's that didn't die from a fall from a tree had their pistons cooked from air leaks and not all of them can be traced to a bad Zama carb .
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As a point of information that same part number fits the 028,038 ,042,048 and Ms 380 .The later is essentually an 038 magnum .I don't think it's available in the British Isles or North America but I think still in some parts of the world .As such that part plus most if not all others should be available through Stihl . In addition there are some after market suppliers for certain models .The 038 in all three models ,038 Av ,038 Super and 038 Magnum were very popular saws and as such many were made and still in operation world wide . Oddly enough although some models are no longer being sold in some countries they are in others .Most likely because of enviromental issues imposed by whatever governmental bodies where that may apply .
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I think that vid was Brad S who lives about a hundred miles south of me . If I'm not mistaken he sold that thing .
