Magnus

Yes, I have. Not 576, but I have 575. It will not run a 24" bar as well as the 372 in same wood and setup. The 372 will run up to 30". NO! Yes Get a 372 and don't look back!

This is what I mean when I say compare same type. If you don't compare similar chains or bars it is impossible to get any idea that is fair. It is like comparing bikes. One with pedals instead of engine and the other is a 1100cc road racer. What is best?

If you rotate chains and replace rims, you get a lot out of it. After you run say 4-5 chains on a Power match bar, it hardly looks used. Then new rim, bar tip and chains and another go at it. This way a full timer hardwood logger here use two bars/year! Significant difference in cost efficiency.

Nope. Get a bag with some bar oil in it and let chain soak in it a day or so. That helps a lot and lobe until bar oil from saw gets in to correct place.

If you compare similar bars I think you get the same out of them if they are treated right. If you are really good on filing, take care of the bar/rim/sprocket and chains good I think you might get a bit more out of the GB bar.

Bar oil is cheep compared to damages made due to loss of it. Oil has more than one job to do. It reduces friction on the bar rails. It lubes rivets, lubes bearings and rims among other things. I also has a cooling affect as it transport heat of the cutting attachment. Too little oil leads to excessive wear and is nr 1 problem in this system. On some Oregon (and Stihl)chain there is a hole in the drive link that will carry oil. This has same affect as the Stihl's lubri link. No matter what chain you have the quality and property of oil is usually what limit result. Pre oiling chain has a lot of affect too... But don't be cheep on bar oil, it will cost you more in the end!

Good topic, lost to talk about in this subject. Most important is to compare same bars within the brands. Dressing bars, maintaining them is part of service and you will not get out of that. It is a important thing to do as well as inspection of the chains tie straps and drivers. Usually if it is excessive wear it has a fault some were that can be avoided in future. Low rakers, dull chains, dameges/wear on rims/sprockets etc.... It all interacts. Most hrs you get out of a bar/rim and 4-5 chains that you rotate so they wear the same. Alway's change rim when replacing bar... If one part of the system is worn and the others are new, it will wear to fit each other. Best is to have all new and replace all when it is time! Lots of time, aggravation and money to save on this.

I really doubt this is a Stihl product. If you wish to make sure, ask for serial number and see if you can get any part number from the saw... No Stihl chain is made in Sweden that I am aware of. Some bars at some point, but no chain.

If I were to choose between 570/575/576 and 390, choice is very simple! If you are to run a saw above 22" I'd take the 390! I have 575 and 390! Still trying to get the 390 running, waiting for some parts, but even just sitting next to eachother the choice is simple!

If I am not mistaken the HVA 357 is 2156 when it has the red/black dress on.

Remove muffler and have a look at piston and ring thru port.

This girl I can't say for sure, but the year is around '62 something.

This in top pic is the 262XPH. Made for Russian market and replaced by 365 now. It is the only type of saw that works there. Husqvarna made this to compete with the Russian saws Ural and Druzba. There are conventional Russian saws too, but they won't work in some areas. That pic from museum is pretty frech. They rebuilt saw section last year I think. I can also add the names of the saws from the ad: To left is MS90, to right Husqvarna 70.

I have here, but sending it from here cost more than you pay for it.... It is a common part that I bet you could find pretty easy. 154-254-257 fit also.

Choose one method and stick to it. Learn as much as you can about shapes and how to get it sharp. Take the dremmel bits and hide in a draw some were were you get them lost. There is so much to learn on this subject it is impossioble to put in a few posts in a thread, but in short.... Grinder is comfortable to some, easier to learn to some, but still take lots of experience and knowledge to get it good. Filing by hand is the best way to learn shapes and performance of a chain. A grinded chain is not as sharp and if it is a good filer, dosen't hold edge as long either. Any way needs lots of learning, testing to get experience and knowledge.

This is a collection item that is out performed by most other newer saws. One of the last, with chainbreake, though...

It is not to compare with a professional saw. Not even a semi pro.... Were will you get parts and service? Some are lucky and they hold, others can't get them started once, but I have still to hear from someone that put a decent amount of hrs on them. I think the top hr cut is about 60 of those I seen here. A guy here bought two.... One for parts.... After about 20 tanks of fuel he needed starter parts.... Less than 15hrs runtime. So he bought nr 3... 90£ for starter parts! Now he sits there with three saws he can't use and spent as much as he would on a decent saw with service.

Most here run 15-16" (.325) on the 50-59cc saws. I will take a guess that you are interested in the cheeper chineese consumer grade saw. If so, have a good look at the set up as they are often sold with 3/8 chain....

Ask for serial number on it. I bet it has no serial or other numbers for that matter... No box, or is it perhaps so he does not wish to show it? Stihl chain is not made in Sweden. There are no bids when I look now. It should be removed IMO.

It could be, but then the angle he describe would be wrong. Pic's makes the world look better in all situations!

The penny's a really good handle cost is a wise investment that will keep you happy a long time!

When you file you should keep pressure with "pointing finger" (index finger?) and by this you control the direction of the cut with the file. You should keep the pressure back in the tooth, not down. If you do this you can file down, back even up in the tooth. Your file is working too low! It needs to be placed higher!

If you only look in top of tooth you see just this view and this angle. If you look from the sides you see the rest too. If you use file handle you will control your file better and usually get some visual help to hold direction and angle. By control i mean that the file will not change position or vibrate easily. If you were to use a roller guide it would be even easier to get a good result. I file free hand with just handle, but file a lot more than average and have a great interest in filing. I do this to get the little extra out of the filing, correct position and resoult no matter what chain it is. As I file all chains I see most brands and models. A lot of chains are filed too deep and leave damage on tiestrap or driveling in many cases.

Oregon is pretty easy to understand. 22 is from a old well tested series of chain called Super 20. BP is semi chisel. Chains sold today is BPX. LP is chisel. Chains sold today is LPX. 20 has 1,3mm Drivelink. 21 has 1,5mm Drivelink. 22 has 1,6mm Drivelink. All have same cutters and tiestraps (with exeption of the very old 20AP that had smaller rivets). A very good .325 chain that work well from 45 to around 60cc saws. Your chain is Oregon and they all are different. All manufacturers have the tools needed to use their chains properly and all does not mix. Each different chain needs its own tools and settings to be optimal. For Super 20 chain there is a roller guide that work OK. 4,8mm file is correct. I use 5mm first 1/3 of the tooth, then 4,8mm the rest. If you hold the file in the cutter as it is working, you will see you have it too far down the tooth. I file these chains paralell to top plate, it gives a tad downward angle, but try to get a very small hook. The chape should be more ( then C

The files position could be a bit low. The center of the file should be positioned higher up towards top plate. If its position is level with top plate and higher uo it will be much better.