Magnus

In short... YES! They not only should for their own interest look it over, but they also are obligated to as dealers. Not doing it is cutting corners and getting more jobs! Maintenance is a big part of sawing costs. If done right cost is lower. Sawing is what the user should do. Worrying about the saws service is my job! The daily Maintenance will save lots of bucks. A bit understanding of the normal ware and how to keep it as low as possible extend life a lot on the normal wear parts. Dressing, turning bars, changing sprockets/rims too...

There is so much behind the wrenching on a saw. To explain and to better help there must be a bit of knowledge on materials and saws in general. I learn(ed) on the older saws. I have seen the changes in saws and models. I have most HVA saws and Jonsereds so its not just talk and ideas read in a book. Books and advices are good, but nothing replaces experience. I've done this, I overtightened bolts and had my share of trouble from it. I learned the different types of bolts, threads, gaskets, materials and so on. I am not restricted to one brand, I like any good saw of any brand. It makes it hard and a tad confusing at times, but its worth it, I assure you.

There you go... A good dealer is good to have. If he is really good and have more than average interest, he'll take care of you and your saws regardless of brand. I do.. I may not like it all the time, but I am here and have the interest, he has the saws so it is too late to ague about what to buy, so best is to do the best I can with what the customer bring.

It is not as easy as it seems to put in Heli coils. You need to drill with a very good drill a precice hole that you thread, then insert the coil in this. There are other easier way's to do it. All aly threads are sensitive to too much power and how the bolt enters, especially the ruff type of threads that tread as they go in. Unfortunately more saws go out on market without tapped threads. Regardless of brand.

Loggers should be good at logging, Arborists are good at their thing. Dealers and tech's are good at theirs. This is what I do as much of my time as I can. I am interested and learn the tricke details as I love to work on saws.... My bet is the ones with problems on their saws don't. I see it every day here...

Biggest problem now is same as it has been since 60's and it is box sellers. They at best pack it up and start it. These sellers are every were with all brands and their lack of interest and knowledge cost the brand reps dearly. Regardless of brand. If a saw is sold in a box store, Supermarket, stores etc, it has not had delivery service. It has not been test run or properly adjusted. Many that get dealerships do it for sales not for quality service and these guy's make us that do give a good service look bad.

Nope, that is why me and other learn all this and help the users do it right when they come to service! They don't... On the Stihls I had here over the years there has been more issues with bolts and vibration than Husqvarna/Jonsered saws. And to top it I can safely say I have about 10% Stihl saws, rest Elux/HVA saws (Husqvarna/Jonsered/Partner etc). It is pretty simple really... If they are serviced properly to begin with and after these problems are very rare. Any saw sold new needs all bolts to be checked over, regardless of brand or model. If they have proper tension and the parts are OK, it will not vibrate loose. If it is too loose or over tightened it will... Regardless of brand or model.

Dome saws have exoust bolts that stretch, some don't. If they do they need to be replaced. Some think bad threads are the problem, but it is a symptom from a problem. I quit using helicoils a long time ago. I put in bolts that thread as they go. If needed I fill up old bolt hole first.

Same thing here. You probably need new guide plates as they are compressed. Correct nut tension is important. Over tightening will make the set up solid and vibrations go thru bar out in cover and loosen the nuts. Guide plates are there to kill vibrations, make it easier for bar to move when chain is tightened and provide correct distance between body and cover. No need for nylock if all is correct. Tension is correct if done with thumb or two fingers. Not hole hand and full force or socket wrenches with 60 cm handles... Tightening is a delicate matter that need understanding of the materials.

The problem with bolts loosing up is well known and a visit to a good dealer/repair shop should fixed it. That way you would not had issues with any of them repetitively. It is vibrations and material movements that cause this. I replace Aluminum with fiber gaskets instead of the aluminum. Fiber you can reuse, Aluminum is compressed once, thats it! If you have Alu, throw it out and in with a new. If not it will not do its job as it is compressed already. Overtightening is often a common misstake. Not having the surfaces level is another.

About 6,3kg 3.7HP Introduced on market here in 1981 and was replaced '86 with 254. This 254 left market here in 2000. They are almost identical. This is a good work horse. 257 was more in my liking and big brother 262 was the champion of the family.

Got your message, Steve! The later 051 and 076 did have chain brake as standard. The first didn't and in middle it was optional for a bit. 051 Chainsaw Collectors.se • View topic - Stihl 051 av 076 Chainsaw Collectors.se • View topic - Stihl 076 AV

Aspen is a good fuel, but be careful when you run it in mashines that used gas/oil mix. It will clean out the saw and in doing so it might develop trash in cylinder that is likly to couse damege. You will need to reset the carb for optimal performance. You will not smell the differance either till all old crap is washed out and burnt up. My advice; Use it in new engins! Old ones that has been run on mix should continue to do so or be torn down and cleaned really well....

Sachs-Dolmar is not the same. Bare with me I try to explain. Dolmar did not sell to others exept dealers, but the stores wanted saws from Dolmar and Sachs bought these and sold them as Sachs-Dolmar. They ordered them with specific parts and bearings etc, not the same as Dolmars. They sold them a bit cheeper and needed a bit cheeper cost in saw. Sachs never had any saws of their own, but used other brands than Dolmar before. Mikita went about it diffrently. They also had and receved demand for a good line of saws but again, Dolmar did not sell to stores. So Makita bought Dolmar and now sell Makitas made by Dolmar in selected stores. Dolmar and Makita is identical exept for colour. I sold a few 5000's here and they are very nice saws. The older Dolmars were good too, built to last, but did not act this aggressive. The accelleration and top rpm underload is much higher in the new series. The 7900 is 1hp/kg.... A real beast to run, I had more than one coustemer who tried and got all white and stated it was much more saw than they needed! It is intimmedating for those not used to big saws.

It works now!

I have Tele2. They blame Telia Sonera for this. The guy on Tele2 could not get the page up either.

If I understand this correct it is not the hotel, but communication thru servers on the way there. Apparently Telia Sonera has been bickering with someone in US for a while. Irretating as hell not go go to TH. So far it is TH and this link you put in about something before that I can't access... I had the same troubble before. US guy's could not access CSCF. This went on for months. I complaind many times effortless untill I got in contact with microsofts server support. I was told that the host I had had updated the servers, I asked them to contact support and I did the same finally I got a number to call in US to some programmer for Microsoft and I think he sorted it out or got someone else to sort it out.

I still can't access TH. This is getting irretating! What are they up to? It seems it is networks not getting along, but how long can this go on?

I can't get up this link....

Me and Kipp has not been able to log on there for many day's, I think a week or so. I had same troubble last year with US members on CSCF. That time it was server software that was playing a trick on us.

3/8hobby is the weakest of the 3. frame is smaller and cutters are not so many as .325. This is used for hobby and consumer grade saws and small pro saws. .325 is to prefer if there is a lot of small branches as the cutters are closer than on the 3/8. This is used for smsll and medium saws. 3/8 is a strong chain for the mid range and top range saws. .404 is even stronger for the really big ones... I have a pic of some types... First pic: From bottom is 1/4, .325, 3/8, Old style 3/8 with big frame, .404 and the others are bigger...... Second pic: From top: 3/8 and then 3 diffrent 3/8Hobby

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This is Russian Husqvarna 362XPH I think . It replaced 262XPH that disscontinued a year ago. This is becurse there is a need for these saws when there is a lot of snow. They dig out the snow around the stump, send the saw in to the hole and fell the tree. If leverege is needed they use small 1dm trees to push it over. If they were in the hole running the saw it would take a logger/tree... We can't have that can we?

I have sold a few of the Dolmar 5000, same as Makita's 5001. They keep in tuch and come here from time to time to pic up chains, bar's oil and gas. I look them over while they get gas and oil. I heard nothing yet a had one in for service. I set them up diffrently for the diffrent users. One who does no limbing at all just cut firewood, I put 3/8 8pin 73lp chain on and a 14" bar! Made a huge diffrence, the saw came more to it's right that way. One wanted his for clearing and thinning, cut a lot of really thin branches. I put 15" 21bp .325 8pin on that one. Like all saws it depends on what you are going to do and how much £$€ you have to spend. With a bigger bar on these and a charp chain you can out cut or at least keep up with most saws under 59cc. I out cut a 357 with one of the first I had here.

This is proberbly the thing to do as Kipp say. 9 times out of ten that does the trick I belive.. Then there is that tenth time... What to do then? Well I tried to shorten the half mile of fuel line, that helps too. replace it to a strait one is even better. Have a good look at the carb. ecpecially the inlet valve and jet's.