Magnus

The roller guide you have is a very good help. If file is running straight on the rollers it is correct. There are different rollers for different chains, you must make sure you have correct. A tip. Hold on back of the tooth with your index finger that isn't involved holding file. Or other wice make sure it doesn't move, in same action you make the guide stable. Another tip.. Place a cut bar in a vice in chest height or so so you stand good (at least on a table with you on a stool). Use good lighting! This will help you get the same true cut over and over.

If nothing happens... It will be yours for ever. To wear these out takes persistence. This internet diagnostic's is never easy........ If it flood without pulling/running main inlet needle has to open. Is the spring and lever correct and ok lifting the needle? Is it really tight? No markings or dameges to tip? What settings are the needles at?

If you take time to tinker, do it right!

If it is not flooding and you pull many times, it isn't pumping fuel or not letting it up (Main inlet needle). This provided you checked rest of system is OK....

This may be a dumb question, but if it starts within 3 pulls cold and 1 pull warm.... What is the starting problem?

Yes. Once this is removed you pull old ones and insert new carefully. Make sure they are correctly installed so it lasts more than a couple hrs runtime.

Oiling is a chapter in its own. Depending on wood, bar/chain, grade of oil and capasity of pump. Proper lubrication will reduce friction, cool of chain/bar, lubricate rivets and bearings and help keep groove in bar and chain clean. Dry wood needs more oil. Oil pumps are just flow pumps, they don't build much preassure and depend on help to distribute oil. This it gets from the bar and chain.

A general tip if they have a hard time opumping fuel is tro toss the spiral hose and put in a normal fuel hose. It often do the trick.

Here is the vent. Yours might just have a plastic filter in the hole, there are 4-5 versions of this vent.

I tested it and I must say that for consumer grade use it is not a bad idea, perhaps, but it will still need to be done as it isn't automatic and fool proof! That is were it will get most challenges... Pro users that are skilled filers and know what a sharp chain is and produce will be disappointed in this I think. It is better than those tried before, but can't be compared with a Super 20 or Super 70 chain, even if they are poorly filed.... New chains made today are good to start with (thinking of Oregon X series), but not nearly as good as they can be. I alway's file new chains to get shape of edge right and that last little special on the chain that make you happy longer.

I suspect your inlet needle is the bad guy. If it closes it is slow, perhaps some crap in the channel.... Only way to see if all is OK is a pressure test.

What do "full rebuild" mean? New gaskets and membranes or a real rebuild with filter, main inlet needle, lifter+pin and pressure test?

You need to pressure test case and carb. If it isn't a airleak it is in the carb. It sounds as it is starving for fuel, perhaps from wrong needle setting. For doing this right, look at manufacturers page. they explain very well how to do it. Setting needle lever on basic setting first, then check under pressure to see it is correct or adjust. If you open H 1/4 turn more and perhaps L just a tad you might get it more stable. If it is and you have it running, tilt it on sides, forward and upside under idle. If it changes rpm or die, you might be pointed in a direction. If it is irregular and die a bit now and then or do exactly the same, that say's a bit too. How much is the idle screw in? This open throttle or more exactly stop it from closing.

In the page it seems to be just ads and ebay listings..

Is it possible to see a pic of your collection?

To set it as good as possible you start from the beginning. Usually it is 1 turn out from seat (look up your specific carb on mfg's page). Then you set L so it accelerated without hesitation. H so that it "fourstrokes" on open throttle (No load but bar/chain mounted), but clears up under load. T is idle. It should be steady in all positions and calm. I should Idle for a 30 sek and still fly up in rpm. After this it is warm and the fine tuning in work begins. L and H affect each other so one changes both. H is usually main inlet needle. Set this to lean and L won't get enough. If it is tricky to set, dies suddenly, loose power, run on the way down in rpm, changes after half a tank, wonder up or down in rpm you have a problem to solve and start over. Often there are problems that make you rebuild carb first, if not, make sure all parts in fuel system is clean and good.

Any change made to engine require a bit of knowledge. For example muffler mod... After this it breaths easier and needs to be readjusted. If not it runs hot/lean and dameges come as sure as spam mail.

This is were many get it wrong! If it is lean set it will be so regardless of Rpm. Most who set the saws after rpm still don't get it right and get in trouble. With saws today it is not easy to set by ear either as they have rev limiters that make it sound close to "fourstroking". Setting saws after rpm is next up and work as long as there are no other issues. But even if set after correct rpm they often want more to perform correctly. When checking rpm there is a marginal of error that is to big and often lead to expencive damege and poor performance. Best is to set after how it performs under load. When it produce the most power under highest rpm. It is not easy to set a saw and is best left up to those who know what they are doing or get the knowledge and do it. Buying a tach will not teach how a saw is to be set it is just a tool to see rpms. The saws work rpm/high rpm under load is set by a combination of three things: Porting, ignition timing and amount of fuel.

This looks like a seller site... Lots of prices and ebay links. Mike's site (CSCC) will be up soon as it usually is. It is a good page to use as reference for general spec's. Models library on CSCF is a good tool to use and there are lots of knowledge and collectors there (good tool for pic's). NO money talk though.. Chainsaw Collectors CSCC and CSCF complete each other very well.

The price tag is about half here so I don't think many can be fooled in thinking they are equal in all aspects. Do you run same chains on them?

What has gone wrong on it?

The 576 is a upgraded 575. They fixed some problems, but it is same saw. The way these engines are different is in the design and how they act. The 372 X-Torq that is coming will have very little in common with 372xp. Hole other animal. I don't like saws that are expensive and perform less than cheaper ones. Pro saws should last and hold without lots of service and production stops. That is what you pay for in the higher prices!

Tanaka was bought by Hitachi and are not so bad saws. It is "Tanaka" machines. For price you get a fair amount of hrs from them. Easy to work on and if you have a good dealer close I would concidder it. Regardless of brand, service is important. No matter what saw it is it needs service.

I don't have 576, but I did test it and from performance of the saw I tested it was no different to my 575. I might explain a bit of my 575.... From the moment I got it I tried to get it to perfom as good as 372 in bigger wood. It has Rpm, but no grunt. It was a very early one I got my hands on for collection. It is before release and was not meant to get out at all. I spent some hrs on it fixing bearing seats, cracks and air leaks. It has some hrs to it after this to work and run (IMO) properly as standard it was just ****! It now gets a bit more fuel than standard saws and run a tad better than other 575's I had here, but it does not say much... Now it is a bit better, as good as I can get it to run, but not as well as is expected for this saw. I have 18" on it now and this and 20" it runs good with. I gave it a good test with 24" but it dropped rpm too much and got very hot. I was sure there was a air leak or something wrong with it, but it can not be found. I tested others that later that was even worse, so I suspect it is as intended, and now a bit better. You are not supposed to spend work rebuilding saws in this price range to get them to perform.

The animal that comes now that is 372 X-Torqe is far from a 372!