Magnus
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Everything posted by Magnus
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This is a Teles OM. They do look kind of funny and were perhaps a bit conservative in design at the time but functional saw. Brittich saws were not on cutting edge when it came to design, but wonderful saws! The aim at the time was not on design it was functionality and cost efficient. Here is a couple more. Chainsaw Collectors.se • View topic - Teles(OM) One-Man saw
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Elmia woods is just south of Jönköping/Husqvarna, Sweden Here is web page of event: Elmia Wood | Elmia We (All Chainsaw Collectors Internationally) have been invited to attend the show and display/run old saws on this show! It is the biggest woods show in the world as far as I know and the highlight of the industry every 4 years. I talked to a couple more here and we decided to go for it and make a big collectors meeting of it. This is something pretty unique and a opportunity like this we can not pass up. This will be a big event that will go in to the history books! Any chainsaw collector that wish to participate in this is very welcome to come and display saws with us. I hope we get many collectors to come and contribute what they can. :thumbs: Here is a link to the thread on CSCF: Chainsaw Collectors.se • View topic - Elmia Woods Show 2013 Hope it is OK I post this here, Steve.
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It is a very common clutch used on a bunch of other consumer grade saws. Should not be to hard to find, I think all dealer would be able to get it if they don't have.
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61, 66 were made in multiple versions.
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Intro dates, not all were sold every were, but model came of production : 162 1975 61 1977 66 1978 266 1981 268 1987 272 1990
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272 is the big brother in a large family originated from the 162. 162, 61, 66, 266, 268, 272
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They are much like 272. same cover and airfilter.
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If vent is shut it will start and run until it can't pump fuel anymore and die. There should be a positive pressure in tank, never negative. Of with cap so it gets neutral or Atmosphere pressure. Back in with it and it should start. There are tank vent in some form on all saws.
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I am just a small fish in the pond. I try to have all complete. Some I just must try and hear others I am afraid to mess up so they sit and look beautiful.
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A little under 1000. All carefully listed and dokumented as best I can. In collection I think there is about 650. It is hard to draw a line to what part of collection it is. Parts I need or saw in collection...
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Nope. I never get enough saws!
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Oldest I have in collection is the Dolmar CL from 1939. First in line here: I ran out of walls to put shelvs on...
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It was optional. Dealers and distributors ordered the saws with or without decomp.
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The higher the raker is the thinner the curly wood will be. If it is thin it can curl up and fill the distance between cutter and raker. Raker is set to low it will be aggressive and chop of instead of cut out. It will be a stick that cover 30-40% of the space. It will also create un needed powerloss, vibrations, wear and heat. Often low rakers are a substitute for a sharp tooth, but is really not doing much good. When I set the rakers I look at the saws power, job it is going to do and what wood it will cut. I meassure by eye with a flat file across three teeth and look at space between raker and file. Some were between 0,3 and 0,8mm is usually my settings. I file it so it has a point in back that will wear of. Never tuch the rakers unless needed, usually just before chain is half filed out.
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You should get clothes that work for at least 20m/s. Not sure how your classes are you refer to, but I think 359, 357, 353, 346 should have same class of protection. No need to be cheep and get the lower class, better do it right from start! Get good stuff run like crazy and be happy about it for a long time. 346/357 is allround saws leaning towards limbing saws. 353/359 is allround but leaning toward felling saws more. Not so high rpm without load perhaps, but Hold rpm better under load. Here you can almost get two 359 for same price as one 357. That is really wieard...
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For occasional felling and mainly firewood the 353 is the better. It will hold rev better under load and will not run as hot. 359 you should have a look at. Even better for firewood and often better price.
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It has to do with the engines configuration, work it supposed to do and handlers knowledge and preferences. Take the 254 for example. It holds rpm pretty good with 3/8. Cuts perhaps better with it in the firewood pile, but not when limbing in forrest work. 1/4 and 3/8hobby is a bit weak chain and will not do saw justice. .404 and larger is to good and is too demanding for this saw, both in power and rpm. The 346 will not cut well with the 3/8 unless handler is very good running his saw. It drops rpm too easy and run hotter. .325 is best chain for this saw and it will fit the engine best in 95% of the jobs it will be exposed to. Each pitch has its demands in rpm and power. This is just the pitch.... Then there is tooth shape, pin number in rim/sprocket, semi skip/skip etc. Lots of things to test and big gains can be done without touching engine. This all is worthless if it isn't a sharp chain. No matter what pitch or engine it is if it can't cut!
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minnnt Taking rakers down will not do any good, just make it aggressive. You will do better in focusing on getting it really sharp so it cuts better and longer. 150 tanks is not much, it is barley enough to get a decent feel for the saw. richyrich Dealers exist for a reason, that is to help chainsaw users. If you buy stuff at a dealer and either have the saw with you or know your stuff you get the help you need. If there is a problemp it will be found out and corrected. A good dealer is worth a lot more than a few £ saved on a cheaper part.
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The valve and electrode on plug is not same material. This could work just fine, time will tell. Just thought I let you have some experience... Here is a bad pic of a decomp valves hole in side mounted cylinder. It is same in top mounted, of those I have seen so far anyway.. Preassure escape small hole in to a chamber were valve sit better protected.
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Thank you for the pics. You did a nice job on this. I tried this myself a couple times.
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You could be in for some trouble my friend. Normally there is a channel that is cert thin, 1-1,5mm that lead thru side to a chamber were valve is placed. This is for several reasons like heat, carbon to name a few. Not sure how hard you run the saw, but if it is hot the plug in combustion chamber can melt. Been there done that... Be careful now and pay attention to what is going on or it can get ugly.
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Is it possible to see more pix? How big is hole in to combustion chamber?
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You bought this saw at a dealer right?
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It does not need much heat, a hair blower works just fine. The gear heat up faster and expand more than crank. No need to put the big flame to it.
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They usually don't sit to hard. I use a little heat so the expand a bit and go off easy.
