MattyF

My mates been putting these on his 230’s and 280’s ..

I dunno , some guns are just crap ! No amount of scopes or sighting in will the things ever shoot straight.

Near half? only felled a couple of live ones but they where bloody heavy in comparison to the big dead ones… feather lite when milled and dryed though.

If the grounds relatively easy to get the timber off you could sell parcels of standing timber , depending where you are and the grade of it I would say that would be your best bet… ideally this would be done in one go though and not 10 years !

I think I had dial up internet when I first came here..

Anyone have experiences of it in mature trees ?

That photo is of a good tree , it just clearly shows the fungus…most are shocking with multiple dead leaders.. my thought and evidence is that it’s progressing across the stand, I think these where definitely infected in the nursery I just didn’t catch on , partly because the where levelled by dear in the first year too. if spraying will work I will do that but if it’s short term and the trees have been too damaged the cell grown small trees I got this year have amazed me and would be happy to replace the stunted wrecked trees and assess whats salvageable and spray.

I have a few hundred young oaks that have this , amongst hundreds more in a young wood and open spaces that over the years I’ve been planting. They have all come from different sources but it seems that trees planted in 2021 are all badly effected , every single one intact and now they are crossing in to ones that have been planted a year or two after .. putting this down to they where infected in the nursery as they have looked rubbish from the start but it was almost impossible to get trees that year. Last few years I’ve put down the stunted growth and die back to frost damage but this year it was quite clear what it was. My question is if it’s treated in some way what is the best treatment... or should I this winter just remove the infected trees and burn them. im concerned as last year we planted a lot more than usual, they where high quality cell grown trees that have thrived with nearly 100% success and I don’t want them to get infected.

I’ll try and get a picture of the foot pedal set up in the posch , it would not be hard to replicate from memory ..thing is from the 90’s and cut thousands of tons and still going .. I did replace it with an AMR so we could cut 1m billets for biomass boiler but I would rather use it to be honest for cutting rings and it’s proven far more reliable.

You can get a foot pedal kit for the Posch or could imported … I would not let any employer use it with one installed though. Very easy to end up minus a digit.

Have a look at zamberlan boots , mate bought a pair at the APF and said they were the comfiest out the box he’s ever bought . I’ve just bought a pair of pfanner tirol fighters as I used to wear them years back and suddenly remembered after half an hour of wearing how long they took to break in !

I use the 1100s , find they just wear down , if you go too long they have a habit of pulling out in harder ground although the supatracks in general won’t do this in comparison to other studs.. I suppose the longer studs could be handier but I’ve just always stuck with 1100’s

Another for supatracks , they will out last any other studs you can find.

Made up a new head board from some ash we milled years back and is now in the way … have 4 boards left £250 takes the lot!

The dealer should not be selling saws if he can’t set them up! You just need the half moon screw driver and there’s loads of videos on you tube They are a bit different to tune but even I’ve managed to set one up. I can thoroughly recommend any one wanting a 2511 to contact gand on the forum, the shop he works for set up one I bought absolutely bang on, google dick Leigh or do a search for Gand. skyland can also set them up I’ve been told.

I’m not being arsey im just in confusion about what PTO chippers have to do with tracked ones … two completely different tools and nothing to do with the OP. i could not get a tractor in half my sites for most the year anyway and if I did the clients would not be happy about them sinking up to there axles.. then do you put on turf tyres to loose traction but not destroy the ground… the foot print of a tracked chipper is virtually zero and then there’s the factor of loosing the will to live driving a tractor and all faith in humanity with the selfish twats on the road who hold no regard to the vehicle your driving … every time i take mine on the road, it’s not something I enjoy or would want to do for a few trees , maybe different if I was chipping 200 tonne with a heizhack.. the cost of a decent tractor too to even get the thing to site would be 40k

I don’t understand your point ? Are you saying that every 8” machine out there that people have been using for years are underpowered or we should all drive tractors 50 miles to a site ?

Since getting a tracked 8” the road tow has sat in the shed and not been used.. but we very rarely do any domestic work and the tracked comes in to it own for every thing we do I’ve found , even if we did a domestic job I’d rather have a 8” tracked than a 6” road tow for through put alone.

Would definitely go 8” and get a winch fitted , I know jenson offer a hydraulic winch which is ideal as it can be used through out the day where as electric is limited to a few pulls but means you can recover your self in woodlands or winch yourself off the ground to get the track back on if you have anchors around you. I run a tracked Schliesing 235mx and would not look at anything else but maybe the jenson. I was working along side a tracked 280 the other day and it did the job but still felt like a tw … had a top speed of around 20mph as well😂 dunno if I would trust any lads with it in the woods , slow and steady wins the race !

Had a few air rifles over the years but out of the pcp ones I owned a 2.2 ultra was my favourite, it stayed the most constant in accuracy and power .. even over and no one else will agree but the s410 I had at the time too… they are a very good value for the money gun.

You know if you take the stihl bar and put it along side the echo bar and mark the tensioner hole drill the stihl so a standard stihl chain fits right on… which is available pretty much anywhere and saves the hassle of finding chains with the extra DL is what I’ve been doing.

I never found better than 8mm armour prus for longevity and performance with a VT hitch

Cloggers without a doubt are the least warm of any saw trousers but as stubby says are not ce marked…. And bloody expensive!

Continuous Cover Forestry | SILVICULTURE RESEARCH INTERNATIONAL SILVICULTURE.ORG.UK No book , but a good read if you have not already… and links to reading material.

Been on every night for the last two weeks, maybes three