Marc

What about the person who mows the grass? I guess he us mongolian! Coincidentally i used to be a gardeneer for one of the colleges in Oxford, we had a mighty Horse Chesnut in the grounds one summers day i cut the grass under it went to the canteen for lunch when i came back a third of the tree had collapsed. This spurred the college to get their act together on tree management and pushed me into Arboriculture. Seen this management in a National trust site, a white picket fence was installed and the area underneath left to go wild and over grown which in my opinion made the area less appealing to go into.

From the tank itself or carb area? And if its not caused by rough treatment and normal daily use then it in my opinion should be a warranty repair.

I make a clove hitch leaving plenty of tail on the butt, choke a sling with carabiner on the tip end feed tail through that, then tie a mid line knot butterfly usually before the clove hitch and eqaul length to the remaining tail then attach the tail with termination knot and carabiner. If that makes sense, a bit of a faff but least gear intensive. There are many other ways like balancer leg- or rigging pawl and 2 long slings etc. sorry no pics.

Sounds like you have a good un there Pix, what sprocket is the saw running? Obviously i cannot think of a better hobby than using chainsaws, what i would think would be fun is stick a 15" bar on your Husky and have an 18" and 25" for the 064

When i smashed the tip of my finger open at work i only went to a minir injuries unit not a A and E because it was 30minutes away through a busy city center not 5 minute like the MIU. The nurse was well equipped to clean the wound and give me 7 stitches. Also that looks typical of the few minor cuts i,ve seen from a chainsaw, most from using a topper one handed. I fail to see how a loose chain with a back handle caused a cut there!! He must of been doing something very silly.

Spud's your man if there are running problems to be found, although just a thought, you admit it's a be of a hobby for you and you seem to take pride in running and maintaining a saw, and the 064 is a fine saw one of my favourites. Can I assume you've not used many saws of this size and class? I only ask as there may be nothing wrong with the saw just your expectations, you run a small Hisky which is a nice zippy sneding light firewood saw, the 064 can be a bit of a chugger and more about torque than zip, even our 661 with 25" bar you cannot really lean on it and expect it to fly, keep it sharp and let it cut at its pace. Also what tooth is your sprocket? If you want a smile one your face whack an 18" bar on it and watch it fly.

We all have to find our own way, and not for a second do I think my way is the best, sometimes I think we are too fixated on hauling our carcasses up the rope, I am still on Dinosaur rope technique (DRT) I think the main reason srt has become a mainstay is the ability to ascend easily without relying on your arms, I know the same can be done with a doubled rope. I appreciate your comments on good practice about slack, there has to be a balance between both good practice in terms of eliminating slack. For primary access use a ladder, use srt or use spikes if it's a dismantle anything but hauling yourself with your weak more prone to stress related repetitive injury arms.

Wonder what the twister would be like on your bridge? The edge radius looks small and inner part flat, never seen one in the flesh myself, the DMM axis swivels look the best option and possibly designed for bridge connection. Most swivels are not really designed for soft bridge connection causing premature wear of the bridge and the swivel as the abrasive rope wears the inner part of the swivel over time. Rings are an ideal bridge connection they rotate around leading to a more even wear. The Rook ROOK Swivel Rope Bridge Pulley, Up to 1/2" Diameter Rope has been designed as a bridge swivel, the pulley on the bridge connection mean wear in one point is not an issue.

You want to move away from a Prussik yet make it work like a Prussik? There are benefits to tending above the device then holding you weight with one arm locked straight to tend slack, also try to utilise the canopy structure more the ability to quickly take up slack with just one hand helps with this.

Ha ha ha good observation there Sir, although that was in 2007 about the time I changed my habits.

Fire.

The ISC rings are a little soft and prone to that kind of damage as the press into each other, so I would not worry, just monitor it.

Between 30 and 40mph, hit above the frame and crumpled that section entirely possible at only 30mph depending on how static and firm the obstacle was he crashed into.

If your unconscious it would probably require 2 people to rescue one to get the climber to the ground and one to support his head to maintain an open airway... Aerial rescue could be to rescue and trapped climber or someone who has damaged there system a unable to descend. Anyway back on topic. 6 monthly this 12 monthly that. Someone said it's the wrong way round, others have pointed out it's probably misguided and rigging kit should be 6 months, it probably should, at the moment we generally accept it is 12 months. Myself am thinking of moving ours to 6 monthly as I find we our replacing our ropes and slings yearly anyway so this proves to me the intensity of use means the interval of thorough examination should be shortened. There was a period when I was climbing intensively during this period I could of shortened my PPE thorough inspections interval to just 3 months. And after the storms earlier this year end of last, some of the rigging we was doing was pushing the limits of the kit we had, no reason why I shouldn't of had the kit go through another thorough check after that period which was only 1 month after it's last. 6 and 12 is not written in stone. And thorough examinations are only a part of it, daily checks should be performed by the end user and recorded weekly, including introduction of new kit into service and retirement of old/worn/damaged/faulty kit, not just the loler guy every time he comes. I used to think loler was pointless, and like many thought I do not need anyone to check my own kit and kept it in good condition. Now though I still don't see why "I" need loler my kit is BLING! I just like it I see it's benefit, it's all about being professional and raising the bar in the industry, ok it's not perfect buts it's a step in the right direction.

I never drop my saw, I always clip it short even a 660 I am very any about it as I hate hauling saws up to me or having them banging into my ankles. I work the saws hard but never bang them about.

One of mine was a dog, with same symptoms as what you both have described, apparently it was the impulse pipe, though after waiting 5 weeks for this to be fixed when I got the saw back after 20 minutes it was back to its usual poor running. So I took mine back and insisted on a new saw, this one has been fine.

Give it a go sometime, get some bromance going with another climber get him to attach to you and weight your system whilst he is still on his slack system as back up, and descend, just to see how it feels. If your confident in the test then no need to worry, nothing bad should happen if there is 180kgs on it for a short time during rescue, and I'd rather the quickest least messing around with extra Prussik rope option. Aerial rescues of this nature are pretty rare but it doesn't hurt to be prepared.

The ZZ is not rated to 140kg that may be it's safe working load with a hefty safety margin, or even a rating given for smooth function. In the event of an aerial rescue you should be fine (not tested it myself) also note most kit is only rated to one person as stated in your loler, so after any event that exceeds that your should have it checked over.

Exactly mate in it for the team, I'll not rest or leave till the job is completed unless they take the mick!

When you say job and finish does that include him dragging the brash out?

Ground work is harder for me, rather be in the tree 8 hours gravity takes care of the waste and I just have to push myself around with my legs, some climbs can be tougher.

Same here and on the half dozen others we use over the least several months, yes the paint wears of quickly but it's only paint. Burring is no different from any other saw as part of its usual maintenance. Another issue maybe? Poor oiling? We did chuck a few chains in the beginning as a little more fussy over tensioning and tightening of the bolt, but since no issues.

I think it clearly states you will be that's how it reads to me at any rate! I'll have to check although I do know the Petzl carabiners I use hold their marking well usually into retirement, I stopped using DMM's carabiners a few years ago due to poor build quality, including markings wearing off as I do not like to etch my own hard wear unless absoloutly needed.

It is both the batch and a unique indentity of each individual item in most not all kit produced today.

Where did you get this from? Recently on a loler I did a few carabiners that I have done in the past where there unique id's were beginning to wear off as the laser etching is not that durable, a light engraving with a Dremel vibro tool (only about £15) on the lower portion of gate is suitable as a way of keeping equipment identifiable and good practice in my opinion. Otherwise we get into the frankly ridiculous situation of failing perfectly good kit on the basis of no unique indentity. On another note I understand it's not my job to mark kit as an loler inspector, and if kit is not uniquely identifiable it's a fail and I am under no obligation to give it a unique mark or engrave. I think a little common sense has to be employed!