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Peter

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Everything posted by Peter

  1. I had them already, so that made it a bit more economical. To get both would cost around £2k. C1E is 7.5 tonne with up to 750kg trailer, or 8.25 tonne combined, ie bigger trailer smaller towing vehicle.
  2. Mr Ed used to run a hooklift 7.5 tonne Iveco, so if you want any more info I'm sure he'll be able to help. The only other advice I have is if you do buy one, dont fell any big stems straight into it.
  3. Sweet!
  4. Find a decent example with the gear you want on it, and dont worry too much about the make then.
  5. Iveco, DAF, MAN, they're all good. Are you thinking brand new or secondhand?
  6. PMIs must be at least 12 weekly.
  7. RORO sounds like a good idea for your needs. Sometimes if no-one else is doing it its just because they never thought of it. Definatly go for 7.5 tonner though, get a reasonable payload that way. Avoid cable hook lift systems, get a proper hook lift.
  8. My inspections cost about £45 plus vat, every 6 weeks. I will apply to reduce that to 12 weekly in due course.
  9. Ha, worth a try, but I'm not sure it would fly these days. You need to be able to demonstrate access to those funds over a period of the 3 months prior to your application.
  10. Rupe, you need category C, which is the old class 2 HGV. If you want to tow with it you need C+E, the old class 1HGV. I have both anyway, so not a problem for me. Chipbox is in the pipeline, but it needs to earn some money first. I dont run my own chipper at the moment anyway.
  11. £3400 for the first vehicle and £1700 for each subsequent vehicle applied for, assuming you are applying for a restricted licence.
  12. Its straightforward enough. Put the ad in your paper, see how many objections you get, fill in the application forms, pay the fees and send it off. A restricted licence covers you for carrying your own goods and tools, and is slightly easier to get. It will cost around £700 in fees.
  13. Yeah, it was good fun, and a good learning curve for me. I can thoroughly recommend Ed's Cut & Shut Truck Building Service. With regard to the 4wd trucks, they are great but will still get stuck in soft ground. It doesnt matter how many wheels are driven if they are all up to the axles in mud, and with 18 tonnes distributed on 4 wheels it doesnt take much. On the other hand my truck has a diff lock, so its not too shy on the rough stuff.
  14. No, I mostly sub in to other companies with it. Can you not get a crane on the Valtra or the trailer?
  15. More build pics, dog trying out his new mode of transport, and grapple in action.
  16. Or orang-utangs......
  17. Tim Atkins, in Burwell.
  18. Ed flame cutting the subframe and burning some stubborn bolts out.
  19. The design weight for my truck isnt really big enough to make it worthwhile replating and getting the draw bar fitted up. I will be getting a tow bar and a 3.5 tonne trailer though. If I wanted a draw bar rig, I'd be looking for a 26 tonne gross 6 wheeler with at least 350hp.......
  20. Wouldnt bother moving it, much more versatile where it is. I still have the solid sides, if I drop the lower halves I can load by hand, but tbh most things go in bulk bags or get loaded with the grapple.
  21. Yes, its a biggy, can handle lumps up to 4 foot diameter easily. I only took it off for the bigger pieces because the bark tends to come off at a crucial moment.
  22. My old boss had a full length 18 tonner flatbed, and it was a pain for suburban tree work. It only really came out for massive lumps, and in big parks or roadside stuff. This is much more versatile.
  23. We made 4 flitch plates out of the cut out section of chassis, these are welded into the c section of the chassis, on the inside.
  24. Its a 9.5 tonne/metre crane, with a theoretical maximum lift of 5 tonnes. In terms of big lumps of tree, you cant get that close to the centre, so 2.5-3 tonnes is about the limit.
  25. Remove original body and propshaft, get propshaft shortened as necessary. Detach all brake lines, hydraulic hoses, and electrical cables from chassis Mark chassis for cutting, and cut out section of chassis with angle grinder. Move the two halves of the truck together, get a grown-up to weld them together, and weld in flitch plates. Refit shortened prop shaft Shorten and adapt body to suit, with sockets for bolster pins. Refit body, repipe crane, and go to work. Simples!

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