Reducing/shaping trees without an eye on the ground.

[karl1991]

Hi all, I'm sure the majority of answers will contain it comes with experience but I'm just wondering if anyone can offer advice or tips on how to shape trees without having an groundsman pointing the shape out? I haven't done many reductions, but the ones I have I have always had a guy on the ground spotting the branches for me etc. I'd like to be able to do it alone then the guys can crack on chipping, dragging etc. I know every tree is different but I didn't know if there was any way whilst in the canopy you know where to cut? Sorry if this doesn't make much sense trying to explain as best I can. Thanks

[Thesnarlingbadger]

Fist thing I will say is start at the top and work down in sections. I always find once the top is done the rest will fall in to place.

Look at the tree before you go up and pick out certain points where you will be cutting.

And if it's a tree where you can poke you head out the top to see what's going on do so.

But as you have guessed experience is key. Just keep the people eyeing you in on the ground till your ready. They don't have to be there constantly just when you are leaving one section give them a shout and see if anything is sticking out.

Happy reducing :-)

[Treeation]

Locate the centre of the crown once you have your top anchor and always keep that centre in mind your mind (keep on reverting back to its position as you move around the crown later on in the job).

 

Then look around the top section and spend some time deciding a good height where theres lots of side laterals roughly/at least 1/3 in diameter of the proposed pruning cut to prune back to. Remember this is important as the pruned branches have a better chance of survival if you do this and you want to avoid stub cuts as much possible.

 

Once you have a rough height to work to always try and get above that cut line its sooo much easier to be cutting below your head than above it. So good anchor point is key.

 

When cutting the top remember its only the very middle that is the highest bit so start a gradual slope down as you meet the sides of the crown.

 

Once at the side try and distinguish on the lowest limbs on the tree a suitable reduction point to aim for.

 

Imagine a curverd line joining the already pruned top section down to that lowest limb reduction point that you have chosen. Prune down the sides to that lowest limb. Work around the sides to complete a quadrant that is visible to your groundie so that he/she can see easily wether your cuts are in/out also completeing a quadrant as close to your chipper will also allow you chuck to prunings more easily out the crown and improve overall job efficiency.

 

Sometimes I start my quadrant around the back of the tree so once I get my eye in I know the money shot (generally the side that will get the most visual profile) will be looking its best.

 

Once you have a completed quadrant section just keep on goin around the sides..it should get easier at this point to see the shape.

 

I always take a decent set of poles with me to cut anything upto 20 feet in height. This saves a bit of time and fatigue and its easier to see the shape from the ground.

 

Try your hardest to get right out on those limbs. The best reults come from those who get right out into the tips. Be flexible, patient, always look up, down and around - im constantly trying to map that 3d dome in my head....I quite often draw imaginery lines with my hand to try and match up the shape of the dome...must look pretty wierd to onlookers...a spaced out tree hugger doing tai chi in the trees....but it really helps me and I havent been sectioned yet!

[Mick Dempsey]

Don't really on groundies, they just want to go home and will say anythings ok.

[Rich Rule]

What he said. ^^.

 

Once the centre top is formed and you are working a side. I try and visualise how far away from the centre I am and how much I have dropped off the pruning point on the opposite side. No doubt you will be able to see through, so you can estimate and the outcome looks very even.

[daltontrees]

Respect, Treeation!

[Joe Newton]

Don't really on groundies, they just want to go home and will say anythings ok.

 

 

The rule at our place is if the groundsman gives it the OK, and the climber comes down and spots a bit, it's the groundy going back up to finish it.

[Thesnarlingbadger]

The rule at our place is if the groundsman gives it the OK, and the climber comes down and spots a bit, it's the groundy going back up to finish it.

 

 

That's a good rule and one I have adopted in a round about way. If they can't climb I take a little longer than usual to get back up and don't get down till the deck is completely clear and we are ready to go ;-)

[Peter]

Unless there's tea involved, in which case come down, but it can take a surprisingly long time to pack the climbing kit up.

[scotspine1]

At the end of a big reduction. Always leave a slightly longer odd looking branch sticking out in the lower crown, one that can be reached and easily cut with pole pruner or polesaw or a very easy short climb.

 

I'll leave you to work it out for yourself why you would do this.

 

I call it the D.P.M. for short. Worked it out years ago, works every time.