Shingle making

[agrimog]

and up here in scotland, no battens, slates are fixed direct to the sarking ( new roofs use osb and membrane) so are supported a lot more

[SteveA]

and up here in scotland, no battens, slates are fixed direct to the sarking ( new roofs use osb and membrane) so are supported a lot more

 

Probably a good plan for the whole of the U.K to do the same, considering the regular strong winds we're getting.

[tommer9]

anyone?

[farmer rod]

Again on the "Im no expert ticket"

 

Slates are entirely waterproof, in the main parallel, and if correctly laid, sit flat on each other.

 

We have clay peg tiles which the water runs into, (ie porous) but only the top and bottom of the tile are touching anything, so the water runs to the bottom of the tile and off into/over the next tile. (The handmade one are curved which helps them stand off the one below)

 

Here I venture into uncharted territory, but I think that tapered shingles would touch on the top of the batten and at the bottom of the shingle, (a bit like tiles) but a paralell shingle would lie flat like a slate touching for the whole length.

 

I attach a rubbish sketch showing lack of tilt fillet at the bottom, tapered at the top. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will shed some light.

[Justme]

Nah they sit flat in full contact.

 

Remember they are quite thin so can flex too.

 

In your pic the top one would be nailed into the second batten down pulling it to meet the one under & touch the batten. You only use two shingle pins as each one goes on but the next shingles pins also go in to it so it ends up with 4 pins. The pins I used are 1.9mm (I think it was 1.9mm def not more than that) ring shank stainless with cross hatch on the heads.

 

The bottom rows are made using all the same length shingles. Plus the bottom row sit on the fascia boards.

Edited December 14, 2015 by Justme
spelling

[wills-mill]

anyone?

 

Can't help I'm afraid. I've my own fabricated shingle-o-matic that I was thinking that I might sell and get hold of the WM shingle/lapsider so I can start cutting featheredge (after 14 years getting by with plain boards).

 

But the WM attachment turns out to be £1350 before VAT, so I may do some poking with the welder to make my own feather-o-matic and keep the shingle device.

 

I know 2 people who use a simple plywood gadget for shingle cutting, they are very effective, but a bit tedious moving the spacers for every cut.

 

Like this, but it's fairly easy to dispense with the pipe clamps at the back and wind a screw into the bottom corner of the blocks to act as a clamp and a pivot point. Then spacers are slipped in under the 'front' to give a taper.

 

[ame]

[/ame]

[bomcgowan]

looks familiar

[Billhook]

THe Lucas Mill has a handy weatherboard attachment which will cut an eight inch depth tapered board and up to twenty foot or more in length which you could cut into whatever widths you need with a crosscut saw.

 

 

[ame]

[/ame]

[skc101fc]

THe Lucas Mill has a handy weatherboard attachment which will cut an eight inch depth tapered board and up to twenty foot or more in length which you could cut into whatever widths you need with a crosscut saw.

 

 

 

Got one of those yokes on my lucas, cuts a nice weatherboard, but setting/guaging/ measuring is the devils own work. - I rarely get consistent sizes.

Maybe im doing something wrong.

Shaun