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Using long chainsaws 48"/60" experiences/tips


cessna
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Only use it for what you have to. The weight of the saw and bar means it is harder to swing around and you tire faster. It is also harder to be precise in placing to start cuts. This means you really don't want to use it except for the big cuts, so prep everything with something normal - a 460 or 660 on a 25" bar is likely to be a good size. That will give you a clean length where you are ringing up from an end. Chocks, blocks, leaving low down stubs etc all give some protection against the butt rolling, as does working on the uphill side if it's lying sideways of course.

 

It does help if the bar is long enough to go straight through as you can pretty much rest it in place and let it cut under its own weight, which takes a lot of the effort out. You need to be careful about considering how stresses will change when a ring comes off as if you pinch the bar you will be short of options for cutting it back out again - you really do need wedges in to guard against pinching.

 

Make sure you go for a sprocket nose bar rather than a hard nose as it will take a lot less power out of the saw.

 

Big saws are all about torque rather than speed so things happen in what feels like slow motion. Cuts take a long time with not much happening so you have to guard against losing concentration or becoming complacent.

 

You will really want a grinder for sharpening, and you will really curse if you cut too deep and dull the chain in the dirt below.

 

Alec

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It may have been mentioned but I haven't seen it. Equal length of cutting tooth is important, if your teeth are longer on one side than the other, the bar will cut in a curve. Left handers sharpen one side better. Right handers similar. I found that an old set of verniers were useful in this case....Anal but it saves time in the end!

codlasher

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It may have been mentioned but I haven't seen it. Equal length of cutting tooth is important, if your teeth are longer on one side than the other, the bar will cut in a curve. Left handers sharpen one side better. Right handers similar. I found that an old set of verniers were useful in this case....Anal but it saves time in the end!

codlasher

What are verniers?

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Thank you all for your very useful replies. Stupidly I forgot to explain that although trunks are on steep bank we would cut them up into 2mtr lengths to winch down the hill, to flatter ground,using a divert pulley in case of a runaway. I move the lengths to our yard,by loading them into an old 10ton grain trailer,with a JCB telehandler.

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I'm sorry Marc Lewis I should have put a picture up:blushing:

 

I've found that using these quickly gives you a good guide on your file work! You don't have to take too long with them but if each tooth on one side needs one or two more rubs it certainly pays dividends.:biggrin:

codlasher

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I assume you'll access the wood from the top of the hill? If you're going to hike up a steep bank with a 42"+ saw, swing it around for a few hours and then march back down, good luck, especially as you're going to need to go up and down for each log!

 

 

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