New wood burner and flue

[mendiplogs]

you can only use maximum 1.8 M single skin flue from the stove and it needs to be 3 times its diameter from the ceiling

 

HI STEVE or a FAN moves the heat around the house nice thanks jon

[difflock]

To get the heat upstairs cut a vent in the ceiling above the stove, then make a box around the vent opening beneath the upstairs floorboards and add another vent where you want the hot air to come out, did this with mine and it keeps upstairs very warm.

cough cough

wot e said

cept fancier.

PS

Niftysteve,

If there is no ceiling (an annular gap), do those rules:lol: still apply.

Since the rising room air will insulate around/cool down the flue pipe and prevent heat getting trapped next the ceiling.

cheers

m

Edited April 12, 2014 by difflock

[RDB logs]

I have a dovre 12kw, it's a bit like an open fire with doors, so works like a wood burner has a blast like a fire, can fit 2 ft lumps in and has a convection system behind.

 

It takes air in at the base passes it behind and it comes out of a vent in the next room/upstairs/my log store.

 

So your logs are pre heated along with your bed!

[richardwale]

Burley Wakerley 12kw nominal output. Brilliant stove.

[log on tommy]

westfire one about 4 kw, good looking simple steel stove that seems to punch well above its weight. my folks have put in a 10 kw stove for twice the money and I swear mine throws out more heat

[Stubby]

Burley Wakerley 12kw nominal output. Brilliant stove.

 

Second that . I have the smaller 5kw stove and that heats my whole small house . It will take a 12" size log put in left to right .

[Alycidon]

Wide range of answers and advice, some sound, some not so sound.

 

To cover your points as they arose;

 

The installation of a stove comes under Building Control Regulation. While it is perfectly legal to install your own stove it must then be signed off as safe to use prior to use by a qualified building inspector. Not getting is signed off means that you are in breach of building regs, you could then be fined several K. If you then have a house fire it is highly likely that your insurer will invalidate any insurance cover.

 

The building regulations appertaining to stove installation can be downloaded for free here:

 

https://www.planningportal.gov.uk/buildingregulations/approveddocuments/partj/approved.

 

You will need fully insulated pipe to go through the ceiling/floors, this is usually shiny stainless steel but we usually powder coat to match the colour of the stove. You will need a fire stop plate on the floor of the bedroom, the pipe is this room must be boxed in as it presents a serious fire hazard if anything comes within its combustible distance. How far that is varies between pipe manufacturers, I use Poujoulat and its 50mm, cheaper less well insulated brands are more than that, some a lot more. Don't forget the floor joists are combustible.

 

How much heat output do you need?. You have just said a stove, work out the volume of the room you wish to heat and divide by 12 if you have poor insulation, 14 for average and 16 for good.

 

So, a good quality stove that will take long logs, my recommendations for a short list would be,

 

5kw, Esse 100, either single or double door. Nordpies Bergan

 

8kw. Esse 200, either single or double door, Morso Panther, Morso 08.

 

Above 8kw most stoves are able to take a long log.

 

I do act for Villager and saw that someone had a door sealing issue, there is usually no sealing strip between the two doors. The doors themselves are all hand fitted to each stove, this involves hand fettling and the use of a 'vibratic persauder' (a hammer !!) problems of that nature not that I have ever had any need referring to Villager for their engineer to sort. I have serviced and repaired Villagers over 30 years old that have simply needed new firebricks and not a lot else. I have never come across a leak between the doors.

 

Someone was talking about burning old fence posts, as long as they are not creosoted then that's fine. Avoid creosoted ones like the plague unless you want a chimney fire.

 

Hope that helps.

 

A

[Mik the Miller]

Alycidon is not wrong in his post, you need to get the installation signed off and then it's important to keep the flue clean. Burning creosote soaked wood and burning wet wood, especially sap filled soft woods (firs etc) coats the inner-sides of the flue with a flammable tar like substance. To much wet wood creates smoke/carbon particles (soot) which can also block the flue and catch fire with expensive and potentially disastrous results.

 

If the glass in your stove keeps getting coated and you can't see through it - the wood isn't dry enough.

 

I'm not a big fan of these designer stoves to be honest, a cast iron or welded steel (if you must) box with a small door, ash can, baffle and rear exhaust is all you need. I really don't understand why people spend thousands of pounds on a stove when there are manufacturers like Martin Champion and Country Kiln who can provide one for just a few hundred

[Mik the Miller]

Here's mine ...

 

Welsh slate hearth

Brick slips on fireproof plasterboard

Elm surround (stuck on with No-Nails)

Eco Fan

Humidor

Temp gauge

Sloe Gin and Woofy

[County4x4]

I wouldn't go within a country mile of a Country Kiln - they're appalling. I know of several fitters who won't even install them. Only seen one in the flesh and it appeared to be knocked together from bits they'd found laying about - nothing fitted properly. The website is (or was when I last looked) written to make you think they're made in Scotland - they're absolute bottom of the range Chinese imports - probably coming in at less than £50 a unit.