What finishing oil to use?

[slackbladder]

Saw some stuff at a woodwork show a while back i'll ask round see if anybody else knows

I have tung oil here if you want to try it

I think most oils will be affected by the temperature of what you put in the mug

[Dan Earp]

Thanks guys and girls👍 will make up sum prototypes but get the feeling they'll end up as pen & pencil pots lol

[se7enthdevil]

just did a quick search on the net as to what they used in medieval times and wooden mugs seem to be finished with linseed oil but as woodworks say i think a weeks immersion would be a safe bet before use. also i would use you're classic food friendly woods like birch, maple and beech.

[Dan Earp]

just did a quick search on the net as to what they used in medieval times and wooden mugs seem to be finished with linseed oil but as woodworks say i think a weeks immersion would be a safe bet before use. also i would use you're classic food friendly woods like birch, maple and beech.

 

👍 thanks.

[morten]

When using a drying oil (such as linseed- and tung oil), you have to give it plenty of time, exposed to oxygen to cure/dry/harden, before putting in hot liquid. Otherwise you will just dissolve the newly applied oil.

 

Drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Dan Earp]

So what type of linseed oil?

Normal

Boiled

Double boiled

 

Any fav makes out there people like to use

Thanks

[muttley9050]

I would try Osmo top oil on one and see how it goes.

[Ian Leach]

Boiled drys quicker as its got drying agents in raw doesn't and takes a few days.

le tonkinois varnish is all natural and can take boiling hot water on it, but i find the finish seems abit gritty.

 

Pure tung oil. Extracted from the nut of the china wood tree. Used as a base in many blended finishes. Difficult to apply, requires many coats, good water-resistance.

 

Raw linseed oil.Pressed from flax seeds. Not to be confused with boiled linseed, which contains metallic driers. Listed as a food additive by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Very long curing time, good looks, low water-resistance, frequent reapplication.

 

Mineral oil.Although derived from petroleum, it is colorless, odorless, tasteless and entirely inert. Sold as a laxative in drug stores and as a wood finish in hardware and kitchen-supply stores. Simple to apply, low water resistance, frequent reapplication.

 

Walnut oil.Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree. Sold as a salad oil in health food stores and in large grocery stores. Walnut oil dries and won't go rancid. Easy to apply, frequent reapplication.

 

Beeswax. Can be mixed with an oil to create a better-smelling, slightly more water repellent finish.

 

Carnauba wax.Derived from the Brazilian palm tree. Harder than beeswax and more water-resistant. Can be used straight on woodenware as a light protective coating or a topcoat polish.

 

Shellac.A secretion from the lac bug. Harvested in India. Super blond shellac in flake form is the most water resistant variety. A film-forming finish.

[delabodge]

my wooden goblet turned by a friend in cherry, was finnished in food safe chestnut oil, and has had many a drink in it over the yrs ,still going strong!

[Stompy]

I have used a company called that I thought was called Timbertec, can't seem to find them on the internet!! Anyway was pretty impressed with the finish and seem to remember that they produce an oil that can be used to finish wooden sinks for kitchens so I'd say that it would fit your purpose perfectly...... not much use I know but will try to remember and post up here.

 

As for the safeness of other products I would try to get hold of the COSHH and data sheets for each one, they should give you all the info you need to find out if it will melt your teeth/kill you slowly etc You should be able to download them from the respective companies website or request them. I believe they have to supply them by law.

 

Any of the cooking nut oils would probebly do the job and be safe