What's on your bench today?

[Toad]

37 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Anyone got a link for cheapo crank seal puller and flywheel one?

 

 

https://m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html

 

I would say have a go with mine, but I think you are the other end of the country from me.

[Macpherson]

https://m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html

 

There's quite a lot of tools on this site, potentially at a decent price, can anyone vouch for the quality ..or not ?

I've found in the past that often the pattern parts look the same as the real thing but in comparison might as well be made of putty.

 

[billpierce]

https://m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html
 
I would say have a go with mine, but I think you are the other end of the country from me.

Very kind thanks. I'm up on Northumberland. Have no particular job for seal puller but have struggled on getting them out in the past.

[openspaceman]

10 hours ago, billpierce said:

12 hours ago, Toad said:

https://m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html
 
I would say have a go with mine, but I think you are the other end of the country from me.

Very kind thanks. I'm up on Northumberland. Have no particular job for seal puller but have struggled on getting them out in the past.

What's better about them over a slide hammer and internal legs?

[Toad]

2 hours ago, openspaceman said:

What's better about them over a slide hammer and internal legs?

What I find better is that I don't own a slide hammer.

 

I'm afraid I can't give you a constructive response

[Toad]

I think the 371 is about to die. Ran a tank full of fuel through it this morning cutting up some large ash and all was fairly well apart from the chain running on, I suspected it was weak old clutch springs so swapped the clutch for another I had, started it back up and noticed the idle has increased significantly and that there is a new rattling sound from the saw.

 

Have stripped it back so there is no clutch, oil pump drive etc and when there is a piston stop in the cylinder you can detect a tiny bit of play if you rotate the crank and a little clicking noise as you put pressure on and off of the piston by rotating the crank. I replaced the little end bearing and soaked it in 2 stroke oil before fitting and poured a little 2 stroke oil onto the big end bearing before rotating it a bit to ensure that it was well lubricated before rebuilding. Everything felt smooth and there was no play then. I'm assuming that despite cleaning the saw and ensuring that clean paper towel was stuffed in the crankshaft to stop debris getting in, something snuck past and has knackered the big end as there doesn't seem to be any play from the main bearings.

What's the best thing to do? Strip it all back down again? Run it a bit longer to see if it dies? I've got the bottom end from a 365 which I can potentially use to rebuild it.

[adw]

Lift the cylinder off again, push the con rod hard against the crank journal, now check for any up and down in the big end, the movement you can feel could also be the ring moving in the ring groove.

[spudulike]

I usually take the muffler off and wobble the flywheel to and forth and you can see the play caused by the ring groove and the rest is backlash and movement in the bearings. Generally on a healthy engine, you only get a little movement on the ring groove and little else on the big and small end. Worth trying at TDC, BTDC and mid stroke as it will also show up wear on the piston skirt - you did vernier the piston top middle and bottom or put it in the cylinder and wobble it in the opening to check for skirt wear?

You can remove the clutch and fire it up without it - admittedly this is a bit of a sod of a saw having that strange top hat flanged bush that may come out of the PTO side but it is probably the clutch rattling....more common on the 346 though.

Check the ends, then the mains and if the saw hasn't got the "Death Rumble" of bad mains, you should be OK.

[Toad]

Thanks both, when I'm less grumpy about it I'll strip it back down and try those things.

[harvey b davison]

Hi all, I,m having problems with the bar studs on my Makita dcs9010 withd009 mount. One of the studs has completely stripped the threads inside the casing and the other is on its way to doing so, but so far I having managed to repair this one using threadlock.

However the one that has completely stripped the threads inside I'm at a loss of how to repair it. I've already tried loads of threadlock which didn't work. Today I have tried chem metal without success. So is the next move going to have to be rethread to a bigger size and have a stud machined up or is there some thing else I can to make a permanent repair?

Cheers
H.