What's on your bench today?

[adw]

17 hours ago, Moose McAlpine said:

Looking forward to all the comments on all this being useless and unneccessary. 😛

 

My T525 never came with bumper spikes for some reason, although they're meant to come with them in the box. The nice people at L&S Engineers sent me a set:

 

 

Tah-dah! I love this saw, it's a little powerhouse!

 

 

Then i wanted to fit auto-return kill switches to my 390, 395 and 3120. These are T540 kill switches. The 390 is a direct fit as both use spade terminals, but the 395 and 3120 use a spade and a ring terminal on the kill switch. You can either cut the ring off the wire and crimp on a spade terminal or open them up and swap over the contacts:

 

 

The inner gubbins are interchangeable so there's no issue swapping the ring contact into the 540 switch.

 

 

And fitted into the 395, looks exactly the same but you can't forget and leave it in the off position.

 

 

The issue with doing this is if there is no diode in the ignition unit  you will have to hold the switch to the stop position against the spring to stop it, if you just push it and allow it to spring back the saw will just start again and not stop, not really a safe thing i fear.

[Khriss]

13 hours ago, Stubby said:

Would the world come to an end if you left it in the off position ?

Dont tempt fate... 😉 k

[peatff]

36 minutes ago, adw said:

The issue with doing this is if there is no diode in the ignition unit  you will have to hold the switch to the stop position against the spring to stop it, if you just push it and allow it to spring back the saw will just start again and not stop, not really a safe thing i fear.

 

But it will only be ticking over and if your ears work you will know it's still running and hold it to stop again. I like those switches, clearly marked with an arrow and stop written on them not like the rocker type with O and I on them.

[adw]

3 hours ago, peatff said:

 

But it will only be ticking over and if your ears work you will know it's still running and hold it to stop again. I like those switches, clearly marked with an arrow and stop written on them not like the rocker type with O and I on them.

If you need to stop the saw in an emergency, regardless of if your ears work or not, you would expect to push it once and it stops, not just re start again , it could be on fast idle, the throttle could have jammed any scenario, just my opinion and thinking of your safety.

[Moose McAlpine]

4 hours ago, adw said:

The issue with doing this is if there is no diode in the ignition unit  you will have to hold the switch to the stop position against the spring to stop it, if you just push it and allow it to spring back the saw will just start again and not stop, not really a safe thing i fear.

 

So how exactly does the diode prevent it "restarting" if the switch isn't held long enough? I thought the switch just shorted the ignition module (more specifically the spark?) to earth? And with enough engine momentum it'd restart even with a normal switch?

 

You're right, if you only flick it very quickly it can run on, but that's almost deliberately too quick. This switch is also much easier to switch off, the normal ones are quite stiff.

 

(Plenty of cars you can cycle the key off and back on fast enough the idle only dips and they "restart".)

[adw]

With the correct ignition unit with diode once the switch is actuated it stops no matter how quickly it springs back, if you rev your saw now and actuate the switch and let it spring back it will begin to stop and re start before the revs die off, with the original switch yes it cuts the spark but stays in the stop position, it does not spring back on its own, so the saw will stop. I just thought i would point this out before more people decide to start doing the wrong thing.

[Moose McAlpine]

1 hour ago, adw said:

With the correct ignition unit with diode once the switch is actuated it stops no matter how quickly it springs back, if you rev your saw now and actuate the switch and let it spring back it will begin to stop and re start.

 

The switches have the same internal workings and contacts, which is exactly why i could remove the contact and ring terminal from the old switch and fit it into the new one.

 

So how is it different to the old switch? The only thing stopping you turning it back on quickly and the saw restarting is how strong the latch is or how quick you are. I've not changed anything else on the saw.

 

Not trying to argue with you, just not following.

[Moose McAlpine]

1 hour ago, adw said:

I just thought i would point this out before more people decide to start doing the wrong thing.

 

I doubt anyone else is picky enough to faff about like i do. 😂

[adw]

1 minute ago, Moose McAlpine said:

 

The switches have the same internal workings and contacts, which is exactly why i could remove the contact and ring terminal from the old switch and fit it into the new one.

 

So how is it different to the old switch? The only thing stopping you turning it back on quickly and the saw restarting is how strong the latch is or how quick you are. I've not changed anything else on the saw.

 

Not trying to argue with you, just not following.

The diode is in the ignition module not the switch or wiring, once the unit senses a stop signal it will stop no matter what you do to the switch.

[Moose McAlpine]

Just now, adw said:

The diode is in the ignition module not the switch or wiring, once the unit senses a stop signal it will stop no matter what you do to the switch.

 

But that suggests that even a short momentary connection by the switch will give the stop signal. So shouldn't be any different with the new switch as it still operates in the same way. The only difference is a small spring that returns the switch to the run position.

 

Might put the old switch back in the 390 just to try it.