What's on your bench today?

[WoodED]

My 346 with an oil leek, I think it was coming from the where the delivery pipe joins the oil pump, I out a little bit of non hardening gasket around the pump, hopfully will do the trick

[adw]

There was an improvment to the later oil pump, the pump body gained small guides either side of the delivery and pick up, these sealed the hoses better

[WoodED]

There was an improvment to the later oil pump, the pump body gained small guides either side of the delivery and pick up, these sealed the hoses better

 

 

Thanks for that, I have the silver side 346xp. The oil feed and delivery pipe is in 2 peices on this model? Is this what you meen, it was fine for around 3-4 years then would leave a puddle of oil on my work bench over a few days. Doesn't get used much now as I have a 560xp but would like to get it right, I will picture the pipe I have?

[Pbtaylor2014]

Hi guys my ms200t fill it up and then in no time it was entirely empty then refuled it up the was OK all day but I noticed that on top where you can see the plastic square that release the big black pipe to the cylinder head was some petrol residue can any one help me please

[spudulike]

I have had a couple of 038s in over the last two days, unusual as I have only ever done a couple.

 

One saw had a toasted piston so fitted a new one and is waiting for a new flywheel side crank seal as it is leaking very slightly.

 

The other was a full service, looks in reasonable shape, the clutch drum needed changing and replaced the clutch springs. I always find that the clutch is pretty much welded to the crank and have to use rope down the plug hole and an impact driver to shift the things and then a ground socket and bar wrench to shift them.

 

On one saw I noticed it flooded every time I replaced the fuel cap, some may have noticed that when doing this, the pressure increases in the tank and can cause fuel to leak until pressure is normal in the fuel tank.

 

I pressure checked the carb and noticed that the carb sealed fine with the diaphragm cover and diaphragms out and then leaked with them in place.

 

The carb used is a Bing and has a plastic metering arm that tends to bend and get too high over time causing this phenomena so I used a bit of heat on it and bent it flat. All is good now and the saw doesn't flood any more.

 

Just got to put the seal in on the one with the air leak and then rebuild it!

[jamesd]

[ATTACH]185055[/ATTACH] last one

 

Nice don't suppose you've got any unwanted tools lying about? I'm after some snap on stuff....

[Adamam]

Old Stihl 026 for service and a Husky 235E with a broken brake band and the brake stuck in the 'on' position by the last owner.

 

I wonder how many of the tiny Husky saws get sold/trashed because the owners take the clutch cover off while the brake is on?

 

On the bigger/proper Huskies, you can fairly easily push the cover onto the brake handle enough to click the brake off, but on the tiny/garden-type ones the plastic covers aren't really up to that method so you need to either bodge a socket/scrench or take out the spring and attempt to install the spring with the mechanism in the off position which is lethal/a nightmare!

 

 

Considering attempting (yet again) to fix the slow oil leak from my 357. I must have removed and reinstalled the oil lines (with and without Hylomar) half a dozen times, but it still oozes when in storage...

 

New lines don't seem (to me) likely to solve the issue.

 

I know this has been covered all over the net a million times, but any noew ideas would be great!

 

[spudulike]

Old Stihl 026 for service and a Husky 235E with a broken brake band and the brake stuck in the 'on' position by the last owner.

 

I wonder how many of the tiny Husky saws get sold/trashed because the owners take the clutch cover off while the brake is on?

 

On the bigger/proper Huskies, you can fairly easily push the cover onto the brake handle enough to click the brake off, but on the tiny/garden-type ones the plastic covers aren't really up to that method so you need to either bodge a socket/scrench or take out the spring and attempt to install the spring with the mechanism in the off position which is lethal/a nightmare!

 

 

Considering attempting (yet again) to fix the slow oil leak from my 357. I must have removed and reinstalled the oil lines (with and without Hylomar) half a dozen times, but it still oozes when in storage...

 

New lines don't seem (to me) likely to solve the issue.

 

I know this has been covered all over the net a million times, but any noew ideas would be great!

 

 

Try putting a pad of foam over the top pipe and then when you do the bar up, it will clamp it tight. I have seen the bar adjuster wear a hole in to the oil tank on high hour machines as well!

[spudulike]

Nice don't suppose you've got any unwanted tools lying about? I'm after some snap on stuff....

 

TBH, some of my tools are not the highest quality but they are very much capable of doing the job.

 

This game is all about selecting the RIGHT type of tool rather than being flash with a load of Snap On or Facom kit - I tend to use only around three socket sizes, two sizes of long reach and a load of T bar wrenches to do most jobs.....none are that expensive and do the job:thumbup:

[Wolfie]

It's been a hedge-cutter day:

Echo 331 - coil

Echo 2410 - stop switch

Echo 265 - flexi drive

Stihl KM-HL