What's on your bench today?

[openspaceman]

Stihl pole saw chainsaw head not oiling... sure i cleaned tank out ages ago and was fine. Drive gear seems ok. Its a really old head. Do they just wear out?

 

Anything i can do? Im ready to just buy a new one soon!

 

The pumps give out but it's normally the worm or pinion worn.

 

Pump is 15 quid plus VAT and postage from Jonesie but pull the old one out with a 6mm screw and make sure you line up the inlet and outlet when you tap the new one in.

[spudulike]

On saws, it is usually the alloy that wears and the larger tolerance stops oil being pumped. A stripped worm drive is probably one of the most common faults as is a plug of fine woodchip in the oil pump inlet!

[Richard Thompson]

I've a MacCulloch 382 "B&Q special" that needs a service and new chain and a Briggs mower in for a pre-season service

[spudulike]

So....Chinese cranks, here is my experience with a MS660 that is used commercially by a hard worked outfit doing a lot of council type work and typically on a 30-36" bar and chain.

 

The original big end failed so the first Chinese one was fitted, the crank sheared (pics below). The second one - has just come back and the big end has failed....fortunately, the cylinder has survived both times and am now weighing up the cost of repair with OEM parts.....ouch:thumbdown:

[MATTMOSS]

Had a 346Xp in with a wobbly clutch drum, the owner suspected a worn crank but had to make sure I wasn't embarking on a full tilt repair rather than a simple new bearing fix.

 

A new bearing showed that the play was still significant as did fitting a different drum so measured the crank where the needle runs and there was around 0.25mm difference from the inner to outer edges - this became pretty obvious once the crank was out and inspected as in the first pic - note the wear as the bearing surface reaches the threaded area.

 

The saw was stripped, the splitters were mounted on the bar mount and the crank pushed out from the clutch side cases - make sure ALL the bolts are out and the oil is drained:001_rolleyes:. The bearing popped out with the crank....bugger!

 

The crank was pushed out from the other side of the cases, the bearing moved but stayed in and was driven back in later.

 

The bearing was removed and then pushed back in to the cases, make sure the bearings are free moving IN the cases and it is worth cleaning them whilst at this stage.

 

Looks easy doesn't it:sneaky2: Well it is if you have the RIGHT KIT and EXPERIENCE:thumbup:

 

Would it be worth putting new bearings in while you got that lot apart?

[spudulike]

Would it be worth putting new bearings in while you got that lot apart?

 

I was contemplating it but they were nice, no play, very smooth so gave them a good clean, blast with the compressor, oil and they were then VERY smooth so left them as they were and it all felt good. Not seen any issues with 346 bearings before so all good in the end and am sure they will last.

 

Just trying to keep costs realistic!

[Richard Thompson]

I've got my ms150 on the bench.

Broken top handle after I stepped on in getting down off the ladder , I am now high clipping my saws when decending out of the tree

[spudulike]

Damn temptation.....got another one of these McCulloch brutes. This one is a 595, a 103cc banger. Tried starting it and reckon the carb needs a bit of TLC as it isn't pulling fuel up but it has a good spark and arm breaking compression:thumbup:

[arbwork]

off the bench now! Steve once again a big thank you for fixing saws and more cheers

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Damn temptation.....got another one of these McCulloch brutes. This one is a 595, a 103cc banger. Tried starting it and reckon the carb needs a bit of TLC as it isn't pulling fuel up but it has a good spark and arm breaking compression:thumbup:

 

LOVE it! :thumbup: