Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

timberwolf tw150 service & blade change


lollypoppy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

12 hours ago, Reeves4Trees said:

Hello there,

With regards to changing timberwoolf 150 blades, what size tourque wrench would I need to use?

3/8" one is best on those machines. With a 1/2" one and the torx socket fitted you'll need to remove the feed roller motor as not quite the space.

 

Spray the bolt heads with WD40 and spend plenty of time picking the crud out of it prior trying to undo the bolts. most of the time they come out, we have had a few that need hammer and punch, this is only usually when the person previous has over tightened and not used copper slip. Don't use locktite either :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, GA Groundcare said:

3/8" one is best on those machines. With a 1/2" one and the torx socket fitted you'll need to remove the feed roller motor as not quite the space.

 

Spray the bolt heads with WD40 and spend plenty of time picking the crud out of it prior trying to undo the bolts. most of the time they come out, we have had a few that need hammer and punch, this is only usually when the person previous has over tightened and not used copper slip. Don't use locktite either :)

Why do you need to remove feed roller if you use 1/2'' drive wrench, just lift drive motor up high to get access.

Have never used torque wrench on my chippers and never had a problem. Copper slip is the way to stop them sticking and never be in a rush to do them clean them out the best you can then put torx bit in and then remove it and have another go with pick amazing how much more comes out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only the motor which is just two allen key bolts, we cant get our 1/2" torque wrench in with the motor on... But if purchasing a specific torque wrench for TW150 blades at 61nm I would choose 3/8 wrench with a 3/8 driven torx bit so it'll slip down the right hand side of the motor without any trouble. 

 

Surely removing the feed roller springs, lifting the motor / feed roller up, finding a piece of material to jam it open is a lot more involved than unbolting the motor itself?!

With a mechanical feel and understanding you can pretty much get away without torqueing anything but retightening to factory settings you can be confident its correct :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lifting off the springs, and lifting the feed roller up is easy. You do have to be right above the roller box to get a straight lift though.

 

I must have changed the blades more than 150 times, I’ve done that every time.

 

I never torqued them either, clean them up nice and put them back tight.

Edited by Mick Dempsey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.