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Posted

Does undoing with a torque wrench give you a true reading? Like how you’re meant to be moving when tightening to click to read friction, not stiction. Plus they’ll be rusted on etc. Plus in tension with the wheel. 

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Posted

I won’t undo them Alex, I’ll tighten them.

 

Start low then add 10Nm incrementally until it clicks.

 

Try it with a few then I’ll know.

 

If they were right in the first place….

 

I find it baffling that I can’t find out?

 

Surely the tension in your nuts is fairly important?

 

@doobin?

  • Like 3
Posted

I reckon 99% of garages just whizz wheel nuts on then clack a clacka for a few seconds. 

 

On a wee skid steer I'd just whizz them on and maybe check them in a couple weeks. Maybe. I mean if the wheels are slopping about it would remind me to check

  • Like 2
Posted

If it was me I'd whizz everything, then final test/nip with a bar on the socket. I am supposed to be an engineer though.

 

The highest rating you need is able to undo the nuts where they are stuck on, but once you've done it and copper greased the threads that won't be too bad.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

I won’t undo them Alex, I’ll tighten them.

 

Start low then add 10Nm incrementally until it clicks.

 

Try it with a few then I’ll know.

 

If they were right in the first place….

 

I find it baffling that I can’t find out?

 

Surely the tension in your nuts is fairly important?

 

@doobin?

 

Gotcha. Sometimes I'm thicker than I look. You'd still be finding the amount of torque taken to overcome stiction, not friction though. If that distinction does matter.

 

I share your amazement that there aren't easier papertrails for stuff like this. We have the internet. I asked Hyundai about the bolts for my my little chipper. Something fairly small like M8s that hold the blades on the drum. They told me something mad like 165 Nm, which they clearly googled and ripped off the Timberwolf specs that appear at the top of google for 'woodchipper blade bolt torque.' I suspect the bolts would have snapped like blackboard chalk. They gave me a more reasonable number after that, which I use because it's in writing and it's sane but I suspect that was still just derived from a chart.

  • Like 2
Posted

Had a look at Dewalt and Milwaukee impact wrenches at the APF that were supposedly on offer? A quick Google and they weren’t🤔. Have got mainly Mikita so made sense to get the same, however came across a dewalt one on offer with two batteries in a local dealers that just happened to be cheaper than the makita body only? At least I can now find it quickly on the shelf when required.

  • Like 2
Posted

Was going to say that there is a sheet for torque settings based on thread pitch/size and was beaten to it! There is also a thread about blade bolt torque and etiquette too!

  • Like 1
Posted

This is getting weird now.

 

Still no answer from anywhere on the planet as to what the correct torque is.

 

Started tightening at 40Nm with the Teng and it started clicking straight away!

 

OK, let’s see how easily they come off.

 

I’ve borrowed my mates Makita DTW300 which allegedly has 580Nm of nut-busting force and it won’t touch them! Wouldn’t budge them at all.

They crack fairly easily with the Bahco standard socket.

 

Seems like the best bet is to go with the cheapo Makita for speed, but bust and tighten the nuts by hand then!

 

 

IMG_0545.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

If you’re going to bust by hand, just do the rest by hand or with whatever drill you already have. My pneumatic impact wrench can only just get some of the van nuts off if the cylinder is brimmed. Usually end up breaking them with a bar first. I then only really use the windy gun because I like feeling all industrial. The point of a nut gun is not needing to fag around changing to other tools. I’d say it’s all or nothing on a comparatively small and infrequent task. Get a dildo if you just want to buy something. Milwaukee will do an M12 but you hang around with rugby players so look at Hilti. 

  • Haha 1

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