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Is it just me?


Peter 1955
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When I see Youtube videos, particularly of our American cousins, they all seem to have bars about four feet long on 30cc saws. 🤔 ( Slight exaggeration, I know, but you get the idea ). 

On here recently, I've recently seen people recommending 20" bars on an MS 261 for instance. To me, for efficient use, that's 400 territory. I always start with the smallest bar specified for the saw as the default, and the biggest for when you need it. The small bar makes it nice to use.

My 251 had a 13" bar on it, and I always felt that was too big for the cursed thing. The 261 has a 14", which it laughs at, but 20"? My 400 with a 20" bar on is a vastly different animal to when it has a 16" bar on. 

Is it just me? Am I ridiculously heavy handed? Are people fitting razor sharp chains that I don't know about? I'm genuinely interested to hear the views of some of the experts on here. 

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, Joe Newton said:

Why would you use a heavier saw than necessary? When its hanging from your harness you want as much bar length as you can within reason

Now you see, that's the sort of answer to show me what I may be missing. I take that on board, as I don't climb. However, as a general rule, trees and limbs get bigger as you get lower. Don't you therefore start with a small saw, short bar at the top, go up a size part way down, and break out the big guns near the bottom? My work is all on the floor, so I want the handiest saw I can get for the main part of my work. I'll go bigger only when the job dictates. 

Edit: You said " bar length within reason". Does that mean not exceeding manufacturers recommendations? This is what I'm trying to get my head round. 

Edited by Peter 1955
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16 minutes ago, Peter 1955 said:

Now you see, that's the sort of answer to show me what I may be missing. I take that on board, as I don't climb. However, as a general rule, trees and limbs get bigger as you get lower. Don't you therefore start with a small saw, short bar at the top, go up a size part way down, and break out the big guns near the bottom? My work is all on the floor, so I want the handiest saw I can get for the main part of my work. I'll go bigger only when the job dictates. 

Edit: You said " bar length within reason". Does that mean not exceeding manufacturers recommendations? This is what I'm trying to get my head round. 

I just find what works for me. A well maintained and sharp saw will do the same work as a heavier, more powerful saw with a badly sharpened chain though.

 

Different bar and chain combos make a difference too.

 

I generally only run 3 saws day to day. From pruning to large dismantles.

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I feel the balance of a saw is just as important.

Once it gets too nose heavy it is a pain to use.

 

The average UK tree surgeon would have a range of ground saws 50cc - 90cc so 14'' to 30'' is covered and would pick the most appropriate for each job. 

 

US homeowners may only have one saw and decide pushing a MS261 with a 24" is the way to go.

They all think Europeans are stupid for using tiny bars but they drive 7L V8 cars with a 55MPH speed limit!

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Gordon S said:

I feel the balance of a saw is just as important.

Once it gets too nose heavy it is a pain to use.

 

The average UK tree surgeon would have a range of ground saws 50cc - 90cc so 14'' to 30'' is covered and would pick the most appropriate for each job. 

 

US homeowners may only have one saw and decide pushing a MS261 with a 24" is the way to go.

They all think Europeans are stupid for using tiny bars but they drive 7L V8 cars with a 55MPH speed limit!

 

 

 

 

 

If they made a 7l V8 tipper you'd buy it though. 

  • Haha 1
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