Broken bolt removal...

[PeteB]

3 hours ago, dig-dug-dan said:

The other method I have seen is to shove  a piece of copper pipe down the hole, then use a welder to build up the end of the bolt till you can then get pliers on the end. The heat from the welder helps release it

Using a copper sleeve?

[swinny]

21 minutes ago, PeteB said:

Using a copper sleeve?

Seen it before someone used a brass sleeve to stop themselves welding somewhere they didn't want to

[dig-dug-dan]

10 hours ago, PeteB said:

Using a copper sleeve?

Yep!

[Ty Korrigan]

Done.

They were not seized in and came out with little difficulty using heat, then 'degrippant' freeing oil then a hole punch, difficult to get central as there was a ridge on both.

Then drilling and extraction with the Facom tools.

I also had to jack the engine up to better align the holes.

Viisions of Austin Mini subframe bolts, nightmare but all came good, an uplifting personal victory.

Called my engineer buddy Didier who has ordered a fresh set of quality bolts.

   Stuart

 

 

 

[Ty Korrigan]

I also joined the farm peacock in a right royal strut and crow about it all...

[spudulike]

Well done, always good when a job works out  - These stud extractors and also helicoil sets are an engineers friend and invaluable.

I have the Sealey easy outs that you tap in to the hole and they have fluted cutters on all four corners to grip the bolt, a set of Japanese easy out left hand screws (broke one though....that was a bad day), and a set of Presto ones. 

Glad it worked out....a damn good set of drills is also very worthwhile, I use the colbalt ones by Heller, German quality but not stupidly expensive and I sharpen them if they lose their edge - very effective if you get the angles right.

 

 

 

 

[sime42]

Well done, always good when a job works out  - These stud extractors and also helicoil sets are an engineers friend and invaluable.
I have the Sealey easy outs that you tap in to the hole and they have fluted cutters on all four corners to grip the bolt, a set of Japanese easy out left hand screws (broke one though....that was a bad day), and a set of Presto ones. 
Glad it worked out....a damn good set of drills is also very worthwhile, I use the colbalt ones by Heller, German quality but not stupidly expensive and I sharpen them if they lose their edge - very effective if you get the angles right.
 
 
 
 

How do you sharpen your drill bits?

[Will C]

Bench grinder like most people I would guess!
sharpen free hand then 2 nuts with the flats welded together together will check the angles for you, you can get jigs to hold the angle on the grinder but I’ve never used one.

[youngsbury]

Exact same thing happened to my little solis 26 ! Two snapped blots holding the loader frame onto chassis! And a right pain in the gonads to get to. Managed to tap one out with a centre punch and the other one a left hand drill sorted it. Just checked them again through reading this and we’re loose again 😤 but not snapped and locked up ok. Also to note the bottom bracket had also cracked on the welds so worth checking that as well. 

[Ty Korrigan]

1 hour ago, youngsbury said:

Exact same thing happened to my little solis 26 ! Two snapped blots holding the loader frame onto chassis! And a right pain in the gonads to get to. Managed to tap one out with a centre punch and the other one a left hand drill sorted it. Just checked them again through reading this and we’re loose again 😤 but not snapped and locked up ok. Also to note the bottom bracket had also cracked on the welds so worth checking that as well. 

I joined a Solis FB page.

It is a known issue it seems.

I was contacted by Solis and asked to provide the serial number to help trace others.

  Stuart